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change in BSL 4mm---do I need a remount in a shop?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

Hello,

 

My previous boots were 317mm.  I just got 313mm boots.  Will this need a new toe mount, or can I just readjust the heel pressure and be ready to go?

 

(I'm trying to avoid the ~30 dollars and three days this would be at my local ski shop... if it is not necessary for performance/safety)

post #2 of 15

It will move you forward a little bit. some people prefer a forward mount of a cm or so, or less. what type of skis?. what boot marks are indicated on the top sheet? where was your boot first mounted? center? then I would probably try the heel adjustment first. you don't really want a new set of toe piece holes right next to the old ones, like 2mm away won't work. so not only is it money and time, it weakens your skis and creates a possible leak point on rare occasions.

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

The skis are "high performance carving" skis (Fischer Progressor 7+).  I will be using them for NASTAR and hard snow/groomer skiing (which is by amount, not enjoyment :-(, 95% of my ski days each year)

 

Anyway, the skis have Railflex bindings, whatever that means.

 

I had the bindings mounted remotely through ski-depot.com using 317mm as my length, so my last pair of boots weren't used to mount.

 

As far as the current position with old boots, I just checked and the midpoint is at least ~.5cm forward.  It might be more (I didn't measure exactly), so the new boots could ratchet that number up to 1 cm forward.

 

Would 1cm forward be OK for carving/racing skis?

post #4 of 15

The 4 mm change in your boots should be well within the range of the forward pressure adjustment of the bindings.

 

I couldn't check with the original Railflex mounting template, but there's a good chance that the recommended drill position would actually be the same for 313 or 317 mm boot sole length.

post #5 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoredAtBMBW View Post


Anyway, the skis have Railflex bindings, whatever that means.

 

 

As far as the current position with old boots, I just checked and the midpoint is at least ~.5cm forward.  It might be more (I didn't measure exactly), so the new boots could ratchet that number up to 1 cm forward.

The new boots will move you 2 mm forward (half of the size difference).  It is my understanding that railflex bindings can be adjusted forward or back (including the toe piece).  I have never owned or adjusted Railflex bindings, but others have posted here about this.  I would suggest trying the skis as is with the correct forward pressure and doing a search to find out how to move the railflex to see if you like them better back a bit.
 

post #6 of 15
  1. You will be able to use your Flexrail bindings without redrilling.  You might need to have the heel piece moved forward but that is all.
  2. Your boot midpoint is now 2mm forward on the ski from where it used to be.  You will not be able to detect such a small difference so ignore any comments about that issue.
post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 

Thank you for all the comments; they were very helpful ski.gif

post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoredAtBMBW View Post

The skis are "high performance carving" skis (Fischer Progressor 7+).  I will be using them for NASTAR and hard snow/groomer skiing

 

Anyway, the skis have Railflex bindings, whatever that means.

 


Wow, just wow.

 

Why don't you do yourself a favor and try to establish a relationship with a local ski shop. Get to know them, and let them get to know you and your true needs in the ski department. If you had a friend at the shop he/she could tell you all about Railflex bindings and I bet they wouldn't lie to you and rip you off selling you  "high performance carving" skis (Fischer Progressor 7+).  These are great skis, I have some myself, but they are intermediate skis, at best.
 

post #9 of 15

how is it noone failed to comment on the fact that these are RAILFLEX bindings.  They are infinitely adjustable without the need to remount.  You can move it forward, back, change the size, etc. by just removing a single screw.

 

since it's just 4mm, the easiest thing to do is adjust forward pressure with a screwdriver.  Technically, you will be 2mm forward...but I guarantee you won't notice a thing.  Otherwise if you really want it perfect, you unscrew the middle screw on the binding.  This allows you to slide the entire front/rear binding off the rail.  Turn it over and adjust the positions of the front/rear binding so it matches your boot's sole length.  Slide the bindings back onto the rail (make sure it's on there correctly and secure).  Screw your screw back in.  Takes no more than a few minutes.  If you're unsure, ask someone at a ski shop..they should be able to help you and not charge for something so simple.

 

EDIT: I forgot, if you have Railflex II binding system, you can adjust size without taking it off the rail.  the toe and heel pieces slide independently after removing the center screw.

post #10 of 15

No need for a ski shop. Follow Majortato's directions or get the little Railflex manual from the guy that sold you the bindings.

post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonrpen View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by BoredAtBMBW View Post

The skis are "high performance carving" skis (Fischer Progressor 7+).  I will be using them for NASTAR and hard snow/groomer skiing

 

Anyway, the skis have Railflex bindings, whatever that means.

 


Wow, just wow.

 

Why don't you do yourself a favor and try to establish a relationship with a local ski shop. Get to know them, and let them get to know you and your true needs in the ski department. If you had a friend at the shop he/she could tell you all about Railflex bindings and I bet they wouldn't lie to you and rip you off selling you  "high performance carving" skis (Fischer Progressor 7+).  These are great skis, I have some myself, but they are intermediate skis, at best.
 

 


Bro, I only listed how the skis are characterized on the Fischer website, as a "high performance" carver.  I put that in quotations for a reason... I'm well aware they are not a high-end ski, due to lack of performance features such as titanium laminates and other stuff.

 

I'm on a bit of a tight budget right now, which sucks, because I've never been able to (or at least have come across the opportunity to) buy the best equipment for my skiing ability.  But I'm chipping away at it; and I'm starting by getting a pair of better boots (Head Raptor LTD RS), which is I'm sure by your standards still a "wussy" intermediate boot, but is infinitely better than my current Head Edge 11+ SH3 (which is a 90 flex/104 last boot).

 

With my subpar equipment so far, I've been able to get up to a 7.8/platinum handicap in Nastar, so I look forward to improved results as both my skills improve and I am able to acquire better equipment.

post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 

Anyway, the binding came off really easy, but the base has absolutely no numbers on it.  The heel and toe piece seem to be connected/part of the rail.

 

 

Does anyone know how I get the heel/toe pieces to slide?

 

(If it is relevant, these are FS11 Railflex bindings... I had a difficult time finding any Youtube videos dealing with that specific model).

post #13 of 15

Try flipping up the center flap if there is one.  Mine needs a flat head or similar device to pop it open, mine has teeth inside and is labeled by bsl.  I'm not sure what yours looks like but my bet is since its a rail flex it's close.

post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoredAtBMBW View Post

Anyway, the binding came off really easy, but the base has absolutely no numbers on it.  The heel and toe piece seem to be connected/part of the rail.

 

 

Does anyone know how I get the heel/toe pieces to slide?

 

(If it is relevant, these are FS11 Railflex bindings... I had a difficult time finding any Youtube videos dealing with that specific model).

I'm not positive about the FS11 model, but it shouldn't be too different than the standard.

 

by bindings came off easily, I assume you slid the entire thing off the rail?  So now you should have in your hands the toe/heel piece connected by a plastic piece.

 

 Turn it upside down and you will find the plastic piece holding it together has teeth.  There are markings on the long plastic piece with the teeth that should match boot sole length.  You can just push the toe/heel piece off the teeth piece and push it back on after matching it to your sole length.

 

If I'm wrong and the FS11 is anything like railflex 2 system, then the toe/heel pieces can't be adjusted by being popped off the teeth piece.   Instead, there's a tab by the single screw that you removed.  Lift this tab up and you can see the markings for different boot sole lenghts.  You can then just slide the toe/heel pieces around.  You didn't need to remove the binding from the rail if this is the case.

post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by majortato View Post



Quote:
Originally Posted by BoredAtBMBW View Post

Anyway, the binding came off really easy, but the base has absolutely no numbers on it.  The heel and toe piece seem to be connected/part of the rail.

 

 

Does anyone know how I get the heel/toe pieces to slide?

 

(If it is relevant, these are FS11 Railflex bindings... I had a difficult time finding any Youtube videos dealing with that specific model).

I'm not positive about the FS11 model, but it shouldn't be too different than the standard.

 

by bindings came off easily, I assume you slid the entire thing off the rail?  So now you should have in your hands the toe/heel piece connected by a plastic piece.

 

 Turn it upside down and you will find the plastic piece holding it together has teeth.  There are markings on the long plastic piece with the teeth that should match boot sole length.  You can just push the toe/heel piece off the teeth piece and push it back on after matching it to your sole length.

 

If I'm wrong and the FS11 is anything like railflex 2 system, then the toe/heel pieces can't be adjusted by being popped off the teeth piece.   Instead, there's a tab by the single screw that you removed.  Lift this tab up and you can see the markings for different boot sole lenghts.  You can then just slide the toe/heel pieces around.  You didn't need to remove the binding from the rail if this is the case.



The base plate under toe and heel will have actual BSL numbers, plus little lines to the numbers. Just take toe and heel off the toothed endpiece, reattach with the proper BSL number. Incidentally, you can adjust the entire binding forward and backward this way if you want to produce increments of other than +1.5, 0, -1.5. Very handy for fine tuning mount position. 

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Ski Gear Discussion › change in BSL 4mm---do I need a remount in a shop?