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Off Axis Ski Binding Mounting

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

I've read a lot of smart, open minded and non-combative discussions at this site so I figured I'd venture to see what people thought about this idea. Hopefully I'll shoot off my first post into a receptive crowd!

I'm a skier who has struggled every winter for the past 45 years holding a solid edge throughout a turn, perhaps due to my extreme splay footed physical build.

Found this picture on the net by Googling "splay footed".


It is almost physically impossible for me to get the angulation necessary for proper turns.  Although I probably ski better than 95% of the 50+ crowd, I could surely use a little technical help.

Since I have a barn full of skis, I figured I'd grab a set of fat waisted ones and use a piece of 1" x 2.5" x 24" HDPE (high density polyethylene) stock machined as a diagonally adjustable riser on which to mount the bindings.  I'd vertically insert a short steel dowel on the centerline of the ski at the boot mark (or BOF) to act as a pivot, then mount two stainless threaded studs into the skis just ahead of and behind where the toes and heels were originally mounted.  The bindings get mounted directly to the HDPE riser. Curved slots in the HDPE plate/riser fit studs on skis allowing offset adjustments.

In the picture above, the person's feet are probably splayed out 30 (on right) and 50 (left) degrees off the black center line.  I'm about that bad, but I'm not trying to compensate that much, which would be absurd!  The average skier is likely only splay footed about 5 to 15 degrees off axis.  So if I offset some 10 degrees on each side, I'd be almost halfway normal!  And who can argue with that?  Clearly mounting bindings more than 10 degrees off axis would introduce multiple safety and skiability issues, but I think staying within the 5 to 10 degree range could very be beneficial. Overhang of heels on narrow waisted skis would prevent more than about 5-8 degrees of offset, although the 1" (or maybe 3/4") riser would help offset somewhat. 

Has any seen or heard of such a setup?

All you factory tech type guys, yea I know you guys are rolling your eyes and thinking of dozens of risks, but I'm doing this for me. This is not something I'm marketing to the general public. I've always mounted, set DIN and tuned my own skis anyway. Just like all maintence/repairs on my cars and yard equipment.  No one takes more care doing something than when they are doing it for themselves. I've got the tools, the shop, the patience and the time to do it right the first time.  Now its time to experiment a little!




post #2 of 8
Ski *taper angle* is your friend.

Since you have a barn full of skis, pick the ski with the biggest difference between tip and tail.
post #3 of 8

The guys at Hendryx skis are into  mounting duckstance. http://www.hendryxskis.se/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=46&Itemid=57

post #4 of 8
Originally Posted by telerod15 View Post

The guys at Hendryx skis are into  mounting duckstance.

fwiw I've been trying to talk Kyle into building a pair of tweeners that would fit this physiology with a normal (centered) mount.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys!  Very interesting link.  "Duck Stance" is the term I should have searched on, I see that brings up plenty of stuff to research! 

post #6 of 8
Originally Posted by 72c5 View Post

Thanks guys!  Very interesting link.  "Duck Stance" is the term I should have searched on, I see that brings up plenty of stuff to research! 

+ look for "abducted"
post #7 of 8

I've experimented with this, for similar reasons, with 137cm junior skis:


ScreenHunter_09 Jan. 12 18.30.gif


In carving turns, especially to the right, I have great difficulty engaging the edge of the inside ski.  Instead, the inside ski wants to splay out.  Using the ski mounted 3 degrees off center on the right inside foot instantly solved this problem.  Instant, clean railroad tracks.  However, initiating skidded turns became the new problem.


I also demoed the Fischer Soma boot, with identical results.  The next thing to try would be offset bindings combined with canting correction, but I've compensated with a closed stance, one-footed skiing, and as race courses are not in my future I'm satisfied.

post #8 of 8

I really think you should just ride a snowboard.  If not try a Mono-Ski.  One of those is so wide, you could mount the bindings like you are talking about.  I'm not sure how it would ride like that though.  Really, just start boarding!  You were custom made for it!

Good luck to you.

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