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Can you retrofit brakes to Dynafit bindings?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

 

Hi All,

 

i'm very new to the touring world.  I was sold a brand new set up by an AT racer and for him it's all about the weight.  For this reason he insisted i get leashes rather than brakes.  Not having any idea i went with his suggestion.  Bad mistake i know!

 

However, now I hate the leashes because i think they're dangerous and because they are a total pain to have to attach all the time.  Not to mention my fear of losing a ski when i take them off to remove the skins.

 

So i've looked closely at the bindings and i can't see any information on them to indicate what specific type of Dynafit bindings they are (again showing my inexperience here!).  But i want to fit brakes and ditch the leashes.  Is this possible or do i need to buy a new binding?

 

Thanks!

-ian.

post #2 of 8

Some Dynafit models, such as the  TLT Speed, don't accept brakes. Most of the other recent models accept brakes, I believe.

 

For more on the bindings and other parts, go to the Dynafit website: http://www.dynafit.com/ or to the Wildsnow Dynafit FAQs page: http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/dynafit_faq/dynafit_faq1.html

post #3 of 8

I agree it should eb really easy to verify your model and brakes may be available.  But here is my advice.  Keep the leashes.  Leashes work.  If you are serious about BC skiing then go ski with the leashes for a while.  You will be just as crazy about weight as your friend much quicker than you would expect is my guess.

 

If an area is seriously rowdy and you are worried about falling with leashes on, just don't use them.  Sound crazy?  Number one rule of BC skiing is don't fall.  If you are in an area where a serious fall might occur, then brakes won't stop your skis anyway.  I have seen skis go 1000 feet down Cornice at Mammoth Mountain dozens of times, the brakes just add flair from mini-rooster tails.

 

And if you need brakes to use the skis at the resort, Don't.  Dynafits are designed to tour, not do long crusher days at resorts getting abused.  Your skis will thank you.

 

light is right

post #4 of 8

Personally I like the brakes a lot more than leashes because they (generally) keep the ski where I put them during transitions and when I'm ripping skins and putting them on and even when I fall (lol at the #1 rule).  Plus they only weigh 100 g or so.  It's kind of discouraging if, at the top of the climb, you set you skis down or stand them in snow and a gust or inattention sends them screaming down the hill like a scorched cat.  

 

If the OP can figure out what model they are, or post a picture we can figure out if they are Speeds or not.  Is there any writing on the heel piece at all (like FT or ST), or did you happen to save the packaging?  Most likely the brakes can be added.  

post #5 of 8

I agree that brakes reduce the likelihood your skis will shoot off downhill during transitions, but even with brakes you might want to carry leashes. For one, Dynafit brakes aren't the most reliable brakes. Mine have failed to engage on several occasions, so even with the brakes I've witnessed the scorched cat phenomenon Bob speaks of. And if you ski a great deal on glaciers where crevasse falls are a distinct possibility you don't want your released ski to drop to the bottom of the crevasse. (This hapened to a friend of mine who luckily landed on a collapsed snow bridge fifteen feet down.)
 

If you use leashes it's a good idea to attach them to a comparatively weak loop of cord tied to your boots. If you are caught in a slide you don't want those skis acting like anchors on your feet. The BD and G3 leashes won't break in a slide, but the loop will. I owe this idea to Lou Dawson. See Wild Snow for advice on the type of cord.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Lee View Post

Personally I like the brakes a lot more than leashes because they (generally) keep the ski where I put them during transitions and when I'm ripping skins and putting them on and even when I fall (lol at the #1 rule).  Plus they only weigh 100 g or so.  It's kind of discouraging if, at the top of the climb, you set you skis down or stand them in snow and a gust or inattention sends them screaming down the hill like a scorched cat.  

 

If the OP can figure out what model they are, or post a picture we can figure out if they are Speeds or not.  Is there any writing on the heel piece at all (like FT or ST), or did you happen to save the packaging?  Most likely the brakes can be added.  

post #6 of 8

I was recently skiing in area on my randonee skis w/Fristche Freeride +s. I came out of one binding and my ski (with brakes) didn't stop until it hit the catwalk some 200 + feet below me.

I just shows how some conditions( this was soft, broken 8-12" new pow) will not allow brakes to stop skis.

It's one problem in area; it can be fatal in the backcountry !

post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Thanks for all the replies! :)  These are my bindings:

 

 

http://www.dynafit.com/product/bindings/tlt-speed

 

The Speeds. I think for glacier touring i'd probably want leashes as well, but for just doing a quick hike up the valley I live in it's just time consuming to have to do the leashes up all the time.  Then again, i have pretty horrible leashes which need to be clipped around the ankle of the boot , maybe i could find something a bit more lightweight.  The breakable loop idea is good because I really don't want my skis hanging around in a slide (I just came off an avalanche course and see the danger here!).

post #8 of 8

Excellent point about the breakable cord, a must.

 

Also the Speed unfortunately is not brake compatible!  One thing i think is worth mentioning is that the Dynafit toepeice has a lockout feature whcich basically makes the binding unreleasable.  Recently a guy fell into a crevasse and one of his skis stuck across the gap.  He was left there hanging from one toe.  The binding held his fall and his entire bodyweight and possibly saved his life.

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