Rick, I am familiar with using the f-stop and the ISO (and shutter speed, of course) to adjust/maintain exposure. I intended my comment to mean that calculators and the like are largely unnecessary for the type of shooting described since digital cameras let you review photos immediately after you take them.
This is what I would do
• Choose an ISO based on available light/conditions
• Select a shutter speed (in manual or shutter speed priority) and take a test photo.
• Review the photo and take more test shots as needed until you find a minimum speed that won't cause undesired blur.
• Aim the camera at some light subjects and some dark subjects to determine the approximate aperture range (if in shutter priority) the camera's computer is selecting -or- (if in manual) to see how many stops to the left or right shooting at my 'favorite' aperture will give me.
DOF is usually not an issue for me at organized, spectator events because:
1. I am usually not close enough for the DOF to be very small in relation to the subject
2. I am more than likely using a 70-200 with a max aperture of f/2.8 (stopped down to 5 or 6 for a sharper photo, or because i'm using a 1.4x TC).
The one thing I would recommend for ski photos is avoiding shooting wide open with fast primes because snow + sun = lots of purple fringing. That being said, I often snowboard with an 85mm f/1.8 (1.6 crop sensor). No zoom = less moving parts to get snow in; it is fast enough for overcast days, and the focal range is perfect for being far enough away from the action to get the shot (and not get plowed into).