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EdgeTune Pro - Page 2

post #31 of 36
The stone is very small and build up a lot of heat. As I posted earlier it puts a lot of heat into the edge and I believe it hardens the edge. I tried various approaches, moving it quickly, slowing the rpms and very light pressure. Some have questioned the dremel tool and the ability to maintain consistent bevel angle. I don't believe that this is a problem although it takes a bit of experience to adjust the two thumb screws to get the stone to sit right. The jig itself is fine. I gave it a good shot and is back to hand tuning which is what I have done for the last 50 years not that I would have abandon that if I had felt it was a useful tool. I had planned to use it to do the initial work on severely neglected skis but will go back to the tungsten carbide file for that.
post #32 of 36

If you are experiencing edge hardening you are probably "burnishing" the edge, which is defined as a smoothing or polishing operation accomplished by compression or friction. It hardens the outer surface by "smearing" or rubbing the very minute surface grooves flat, work hardening the surface a few thousandths of an inch deep.

Burnishing can be minimized by avoiding the grinding stone "smearing," which occurs if the contact surface is completely flat. By slightly tilting the stone forward (per the instructions...note this is Not a hollow grind) the tool "swipes" across the edge for a cleaner, more consistent grind. The physics are the same as using a rotary car or floor polisher, where a very slight tilt makes all the difference!

Work hardening to some degree is inherent with all grinding, and it certainly doesn't ruin a ski. In fact, it adds to the edge durability and can double the edge sharpness life. Because it is only a slight case hardness depth, a sharp diamond stone should touch it up. 

We hope this helps, and we're sorry if you had some difficulty.

No one disputes that EdgeTune Pro creates an incredible sharp, durable edge!

post #33 of 36

Yesterday I ordered a new set of grinding stones.  Couple of remarks I want to give to this forum :

- After 2 seasons of use, I'm still using the tool.  Like I wrote above, I'm only using it on my "recreational" skies.  My son is in the mean time into serious racing. The team has their own 3000$ machine and all his skis are done with that.

- I compared the 3000$ machine with my 200$ solution (including a new cordless Dremel) last week.  The 3000$ machine has a much bigger stone and is operating at a much lower RPM.  Actually, at a RPM where the Dremel would not manage to get it properly done.  So yes, there's a difference ...  But : for 2800$ you do expect a difference, don't you ...

- We had pretty rough snow conditions last week.  Most of our friends (all good skiers) had "hand sharpened" skis.  We compared them at the start of the week and then ... after 4 days.  To put it simply : the EdgeTuned skis were still in an OK shape from an edge sharpening point of view, the hand ones had to be re-done.  I enjoyed a weissbeer while they sharpened the skis :-)

- We are back now and I've spend a couple of hours sharpening ...  Not exhausting and razor sharp edges are the result.


A last remark.  I want my edges to be at 88°.  I found out that after a while, I had to do up to 4 or 5 passes to get the really razor sharp.  I found a new 'technique' now that gets it done razor sharp in 2, max 3 passes.  Long story how I got there (involves using the marker).  My fist pass on dull edges, I do at 90°.  Takes away just the damage and put the edges razor sharp.  Then I do 1 or 2 passes at 88°.  I avoid extra heat building up and I measured it, perfect 88° very sharp edges.


As far as the handling is concerned, I know used 4 different types of machines.  They all work.  It's just a matter of a bit of practice.  After 2 years, I dare to say I will not have "accidents" with the EdgeTune ...  It's just a skill ... Less difficult than proper skiing :-)


I'm not linked in any way to EdgeTune or anything else, just a user who has to do a lot of skis on a weekly base ...  I also want to point out that I submitted my order and the next morning, I had a nice email saying everything was on it's way ...  So all I can say is : thanks guys :-)

post #34 of 36

Never tried one of these edge tools but something that looks like it would be of concern is how would/does that tiny little stone react when it comes in contact with a damaged edge.  Sometimes you get dents, dings and rock rash that is to deep to cut out and the way this tool works I'd be concerned how it would react when it comes in contact with those not so perfect surfaces.  On a smooth surface I suppose it could work ok but that stone is pretty small and doesn't have a great deal of surface area.  Maybe it works great but I already have enough of those trick of the week items that I'll never use so I'll take my chances with my files and stones.  I must say, I sure wouldn't mind owning a Snow Glide edge machine but that $2400 price tag stops me every time.  Hmmmm, maybe I could start selling my blood plasma, I hear they get about $25 a week for that stuff.  :)

post #35 of 36


The EpicSki team is in the process of evaluating the latest EdgeTune Pro product: The EdgeTune Pro II. We have created a product page for the EdgeTune Pro II device. We encourage everyone who has had experience using the EdgeTune (tm) products to post a review on the product page.

post #36 of 36

Thanks Rusty, this looks great. Let me know how your evaluation goes. Also, I don't know what Dremel you have, but for the very lowest vibration = mirror-like, smoothest edge (for those that place this as a top criteria, not just sharpest edge) we recommend the new Dremel 3000 (not 300) corded model with a variable speed setting at around 7. This tool has a refined balance, soft grip, and will become our standard offering for the 2015/16 season, replacing the single speed corded Dremel 100N and cordless Dremel 8100.

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