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Need advise on some ski maintenance questions

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

I was at my local ski shop today to get my storage wax off -  asked the technician a couple of questions but I'm a little iffy on the answers I received.


1) When I asked the technician whether it would be appropriate to put on a fresh coat of wax, he said that the storage wax absorbs into the base over the summer so there wasn't any need for waxing the base. This is the first I've heard of, and just wanted confirmation on this point.


2) I also asked him about binding lubrication, and he told me that the binding's grease is self-lubricating. How accurate is this?



post #2 of 7

If the storage wax is the same wax they use all year round (universal shop wax), and assuming it was ironed on to begin with, you should be good to go with just scraping it off.  I seriously doubt the wax can keep absorbing into the base unless you had the skis stored in a room so hot it acted as a hot box.


Regarding the grease...there are threads here about this.  It never hurts to put fresh stuff on the bindings each year, particularly if the grease gets dirty.  You can do this yourself easily enough.  You can also wax your own skis.


post #3 of 7

"Storage wax" is usually equivalent to a soft/warm hydrocarbon wax e.g Swix CH10 or CH8. That's what I use at the end of the season - whatever I've got left over. Scrape it off, check the edges for rust, and more than likely you're good to go. As quant said, its unlikely the wax will penetrate more over the summer without some extra heat supply. My summer storage is dark, cool and dry.


In general I like to get something a bit harder/colder onto the bases, e.g. CH6 to protect them against man made snow, which is actually pretty coarse ice crystals. In fact, as long as temperatures stay the cold side of freezing then I tend to use CH6 for freesking and training. Its a good balance between protecting the bases, gliding, and being scrapeable (CH4 is hard as nails, CH3 is only for protecting against base burn in DH/SG runs).

post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys for quick replies. I guess I've learned something new? :P Can't wait to hit the slopes!

post #5 of 7

Bindings are generally internally permanantly lubricated. But as said it would not be a hnderance to use some binding lubriacnat. I use Holmnekol Binding Lubricant spray.



What is vastly more important, although you didn't say what binding you are using, is to lubricate the track the binding slides in, particularly the heel. Sluggish heel rebound can cause unwanted pre-release. You flex the ski hard for example in the trough of a bump and the heel piece can't return quickly enough to it's preflex position and there is not enough force as the ski rebounds to keep your heel in. (In essence your heel piece is barely in contact with your boot.



From Vermont Safety Research:


The FLEX Effect -- Inadvertent releases experienced by racers and hard/fast skiing non-competitors are often the result of the inability of toe and heel piece to stay the same distance apart during rapid flexing and counter-flexing of the ski--what we call the Flex Effect (or the Effortless Release). The most common cause of this problem is a sluggish forward pressure mechanism in the heel piece which can cause a gap to form between boot and binding and thus allow the boot to escape without releasing the binding. Cranking up the release adjustment screw at heel or toe has no effect on this phenomenon and may even exacerbate the problem


A Sluggish Forward Pressure Mechanism In The Heel Piece -- If the ski continued to go in the same direction after you two parted company, and the heel piece was found in the closed position, it could be the Flex Effect. Many times your mechanic can solve the problem by simply cleaning, lubricating, and correctly adjusting the forward pressure mechanism. With certain binding models, however, interference between the underside of the heel piece and the top surface of the ski may require the use of shims (small washers) to raise the heel piece slightly.

Thick Lifters And Soft Skis -- But the problem could also be complicated by excessively thick lifters under the binding or a ski that is very soft under foot. If you feel you need lifters, you should consider binding models with a lifter function built-in, and if you are partial to really soft skis, your best bet may be a binding model with a band or bridge connecting toe and heel piece, designed to allow either toe or heel to float with respect to the ski. These free flexing models make flex/counter-flex much easier for the heel piece to handle.

The HOUDINI Effect -- On the other hand, if the heel piece is found in the closed position and you are pretty sure from your own trajectory (after you and the ski parted company) that you were leaning forward at the time, the problem may be insufficient forward pressure. In this scenario, which could be called the Houdini Effect, the heel piece begins to open and thus presents an inclined plane to the boot's heel ledge. A little counter flex of the ski can also help to increase the mechanical advantage of that inclined plane, which then drives the heel piece rearward, thereby allowing the boot heel to escape upward from the heel piece. Since the heel piece did not actually release, the heel lug magically snaps back into the closed position, thus hiding its involvement in the affair. This condition can usually be reproduced by a binding mechanic with the aid of a ski binding test device. If the Houdini Effect is confirmed by the mechanic, the solution is usually to clean and re-lubricate the forward pressure mechanism and then increase the forward pressure adjustment. However, if the forward pressure spring is damaged or weak, for whatever reason, you may have to replace the heel piece or more likely, the entire set of bindings.


The JET Effect -- Insufficient forward pressure can also lead to an inadvertent separation of the boot from the ski binding during a (pardon the arcane terminology) jet turn . In this case the ski leaves your boot and shoots up and forward as you come off the mogul. This Jet Effect can occur with bindings that offer upward release at the toe as well as with models that are not designed to release upward at the toe at all. However, the problem is most often encountered among models that control upward release at the toe with the forward pressure mechanism of the heel piece. Because the ski flexes dramatically as you come into the mogul and then counter-flexes as you jet from the mogul, the real problem may not be just a weak forward pressure spring, but any of the problems associated with the Flex Effect discussed above.

post #6 of 7

^^^^^ Wow, that was impressive!!!! Thanks.

post #7 of 7

It certainly wouldn't hurt to re-heat the summer storage wax once or twice with an iron, allow to cool and then scrape and brush.  Hardly any further effort for (likely) better wax penetration.

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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Need advise on some ski maintenance questions