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Taking Care of Ski Edges

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

I pulled my skis out to prep them for the season and determined I must have put them back in the shed a bit wet after the last time I used them as there was a lot of spots of rust on the edges. I had a diamond stone (coarse/fine) and spent a bunch of time on the one ski getting the rust off. First off am I doing anything wrong there, should I do that much rubbing with a stone on the edges? Second other that running the stone (and waxing) should I get some kind of bevel or file to take care of the edges?

post #2 of 8
Thread Starter 

I spent about an hour total on the one ski. I was running it back and forth vigorously free hand trying to keep it perpendicular to the side wall and flat on the bottom of the ski to give an idea of what I was doing.

post #3 of 8

A side edge guide will make life much easier.  Stay away from the base edges until you have some experience and even then they shouldn't be touched often.


There is a bunch of information information in the wiki that will help you to get started.


If you really spent an hour on one ski rubbing vigorously freehand I would suggest heading into a shop and getting the geometry set correctly to begin with and then work on maintaining that geometry.

post #4 of 8

Your goal is to establish and maintain a consistent, smooth and sharp edge and geometry. You will need a guide to provide the consistency and accuracy. I'm with Cayuse, I'll bet your base geometry is shot and you will need a grind to take down the base material so you can re-establish the base bevel. Side edges are easier and where you should be focusing. If it took that long to work on an edge, a file in a guide would have been much quicker. It's also possible the side walls were keeping your stone from cutting the edge and may need to be planed or back filed.


Here is one Edge Tuning Wiki that touches on these issues.

Edited by Alpinord - 12/3/10 at 6:06pm
post #5 of 8

Surface rust that is just color is no problem.  Ski it off.  Deep rust that pits the steel requires cutting the steel down.  You MUST use guides to get the correct angles.  After you've hand-filed the skis, the angles are likely lost.  I agree that a good shop is the next step. 


A good shop tune will flatten the base, put the correct angle in the base edge surfaces (probably 1°), put the desired angle in the side edges (anything from 1° to 3°--I like 3), and make everything look like new.  You do not touch the base edge surfaces except to stone-away any high spots pushed up by rocks.  You may sharpen the side edges IF you use a guide so the correct angle is maintained.  The edges should be sharp all the way to the contact points on the tip and tail curves.


An alternative is to ignore the rust pits and rock pits.  As long as there aren't any high spots on the edges caused by rocks pushing the steel out, just ski.  You probably won't feel any difference.  As always, you must have the correct angles and a flat bottom.

post #6 of 8

I have found that getting rid of the surface rust using a gummi (not the softest one) like an eraser works well. After the gummi, THEN use the diamond stones (always with file guides) to resharpen the edges. It can take the time from an hour down to 10 minutes.

post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the advice all. I dropped them off at the ski shop this afternoon.

post #8 of 8

If you leave the pit spots on the steel, the steel can get harden, so you will need to use a 100 diamond stone BEFORE a file.  Unless you use a Panza file.

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