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What do you use for base cleaner? - Page 2

post #31 of 47
I find any citrus based cleaning product diluted about 1 to 5 with water in a spray bottle. Leave it for a few minuteds then wash it off with clean water.

Be careful though. I know this worked on my old skis, which were ex-rentals, and are built with much tougher bases. This might damage your skis. if your base is a softer material
post #32 of 47

If you use a citrus based cleaner make sure it really is a citrus based cleaner. Most of the citrus cleaners out there are citrus scented and contain a more caustic, non-citrus solvent, usually mineral oil.

post #33 of 47

Just my opinion, but I steer clear of citrus or any fluid type base cleaners and use the base prep waxes for cleaning.

post #34 of 47

Dawn dish washing liquid is also safe for washing kittens and puppies who are infested with fleas, but are too young for treatment with standard flea treatments.  I found this out after rescuing some orphaned kittens, using flea treatment, and one of them died from the toxicity.


I use it on my bases, but not in the belief that I'll remove all of the old wax; rather to remove as much loose dirt as possible before rubbing on a cold wax.


I don't hot wax at all; just use rub on paste wax the night before every day of skiing.


Since I rarely do more than 30 runs in a day of skiing (my legs object to more) I find it lasts all day.

post #35 of 47

  I'll add one quick thing to this discussion...I like to use swix fiblerlene in between brushing cycles (both pre-wax and post scraping) to remove dirt and brushed out wax particles from the structure--every time I tune. Helps to keep things clean. Regular hotscraping as wellicon14.gif. Then towards the end of the season, when things get REAL dirty, I'm already a step or two ahead of the gamesmile.gif...




post #36 of 47

What are the thoughts on allowing the base prep wax to cool, then re-iron before scraping?  On occasion I've been using Dominator renew on a bunch of skis (I'm usually facing 4-6 pairs), and instead of scraping it immediately I put it up on the rack and do another ski.  I'll cycle through the skis 2 or 3 times one after another and the last time I hot scrape.  The final wax consistency is thicker so I am getting good absorbtion of the soft wax component, and I'm getting dirt in the final scrape.  My reasoning is that the dirt floats up each time and is not being driven into the base, and in anycase the cooling of the base should be expelling wax and helping to push dirt out. (Before prep wax I do brush with a brass brush and give a wipe with roll of fiberline.)


I know in theory I should scrape and brush to expose base to improve penetration, but its a big time saver, and as mentioned the consistency of the hot prep wax is very thick, almost like a cold wax when I'm done so I'm assuming the warm component has to be going into the base leaving the neutral component on the base.


Sometimes when doing a quick hot wax with just a cold wax I'll brush and do the same Idea of cycling it a couple of times to try and improve adhesion before light hot/warm scraping and then doing a final pass with fiberline under the iron to pick up dirt and leaving a thin coat to let set up before final scrape and brushing.


Regarding wax I ski on hard artificial snow conditions so get lots of base burn at edges even when using cold wax (typically been using cold toko shop wax as it seems durable)  Its been suggested to me that I start using a moly or graphite wax to clean to help renew base and prevent base burn. 


Any thoughts on best wax for these conditions (-hydrocarbons only as I wax in the basement) or on my technique?

post #37 of 47

Based on the above, I believe hot scraping is the best if one has an iron and a nice garage-like place to do the waxing job. Some may not be lucky to have a nice space and time to do the waxing job, so a quick cleaner fits them well.

The purpose of cleaning is to clean the dirt/wax mixture on the base. Wax itself does not dissolve in detergent or water. Detergents mostly take away the surface dirt, not the mixed wax/dirt. Hot scraping does this job, because the prep wax attaches to the old wax so well. Base cleaners are chemically non-polar solvents which dissolve wax very well, so as to remove dirt. Fluorocarbon wax is much difficult to dissolve. Commercial fluoro wax cleaners contains some harsh solvents (also fluoro-based). It is definitely not good for health, unless you put on a mask or do it in a hood.

Cleaning with these kinds of solvent once a season does not give any side effect to you. Fluoro compounds does not poison human immediately, but the accumulated by-product from metabolism does (don't worry, it may take 20 or 30 years to be effective).

As a chemist, I've inhaled enough chemicals. I personally don't wanna more in my life. There might be some people, like me, don't wanna use chemical solvents either.

Thus, my friends (also chemists and skiers) and me started a company in New York, developed all natural, bio-based prewax&cleaners for skiers and snowboarders:



The cleaner does not only remove dirt/old wax, but also conditions the base (no dry-out worries) for waxing. It contains fresh micro particulate wax that replaces the old wax.

I am not selling it here, but would like to invite friends who have the chemical concerns to try. Please send me a message or like our facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/KaepsSports
 I am more than happy to send you a fee sample to try and see how it works on your boards. To see is to believe.

post #38 of 47

I'll try it, sure.  PM sent - though you have very few posts and I'm not sure you'll be able to respond.

post #39 of 47

Hello PJ,

I 've responded your PM. Please check it.


post #40 of 47

Free cleaner sample give-away is ending soon. If you are interested in testing this new Natural Prewax and Cleaner for your boards, please hurry up~

post #41 of 47

I'm expanding my eco-friendly products all the time, send me a sample and I may carry it in my shop.


post #42 of 47

Doctor D, PM sent, please check.

post #43 of 47
What is the best way to clean and remove wax for a base repair? I will be using a Skimender 360 to weild the bases.he wax removers have nasty stuff in them as far as I can tell.
Edited by tomfifield - 3/14/15 at 10:22am
post #44 of 47
Originally Posted by handhdad View Post

A racing coach my daughter has said he uses Naptha when he can find it.  Slow to evaproate and thus easier to work with was his comment.
I'm not sure if it's OK but I've used Naptha for years.
post #45 of 47

WEND cleaner/conditioner is the new school "base cleaner" that will lift out contaminates without closing pores. Should be used both post grind and or pre wax. Solvents close pours, leave crap behind and prevent proper wax loading... 

post #46 of 47
Ski spam.
post #47 of 47
Originally Posted by natrat View Post

this stuff supposedly made for removing built up fluoros. I used it once at the end of last season WITH A MASK ON





• Apply the cleaner with Fiberlene.
• Brush with white nylon Brush T0161B, while wet.
• Wipe clean with Fiberlene.
• Let dry for ~5-30 minutes.
• Brush with hand steel or bronze brush (or Roto steel brush).
• Wax with Base prep wax or the glide wax you expect at the nest race.

Notice this product says 'Glide Wax Cleaner"   It is not a remover.  Even if I have not used any fluoronated waxes, I still use this product to clean my bases prior to waxing if the snow is dirty or oily etc. like you see in the spring mostly.  I have found it works as well as any hot scraping.  Forget the "home remedy" stuff.  If your going to do it, do it with someting that actually works that's made for skis.  Here is how i use it.


Then if you really get into some serious crap you need a wax remover.  Again, a product made by wax suppliers for use with skis.
I use Toko HC3 Wax Remover.  Here is the way I use it.

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