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Trouble setting edge angle

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Noob tuner needing some advice on setting my edge angle.  

 

I have a set of Fischer Progressor 7s that i'm trying to set the edge angle at 3 degrees. I'm using a 3 degree Artech guide and an 8 inch chrome file with spring clamp setup.  When Ive been checking the bevel with my file guide and straight edge it appears I have a slight high spot right in the middle of the edge steel rather than the tip of the edge.  I think I've read all the posts and watched ever youtube  vid on edging so I'm savvy on most of the theory behind this operation.  I really feel like I'm putting even pressure across the file and pulling steadily.  Any tips or tricks could help.  Also, how critical is getting that point to meet my straight edge all the way across?  I like to fiddle with things so more than likely i am going to work on it until it is perfect.

 

Thanks

 

post #2 of 8

Have you cut back your side walls to remove possible irregularities affecting your edge cutting?

post #3 of 8

What kind of strokes do you use with the file?

 

I start with light pressure maybe 1/4 of the length of the ski, 2-3 strokes - overlapping down the length.

 

Then 1/3 of the length, same pattern.

 

Then 1/2 of the length, starting to put more pressure on the file now, not too much though.

 

Then 1 or 2 long full length file strokes.

 

Followed of course by a succession of diamond stones, medium to fine.

 

And remove the hanging burr from the base edge with a light long stroke up the base edge bottom with a stone.

post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 

As for the sidewall, the part that was getting in the way was the little cheek directly above the edge, so I have been gadually shaving that down.  The sidewall above the cheek doesn't come near the file at all.  I have a panzar file coming today which I will use to pull off a little more of the cheek.  I am suspecting that the cheek is still impeding the process.  Is there anything to look for as far as removing "enough" material above the edge?  I also ordered a bigger chrome file with a thicker cross section to eliminate any deflection of the file as it engages the edge

 

I've been using a consistent filing technique as jazz suggested

post #5 of 8

worthless.gif

 

I'm taking for granted that you have marked the edge with a Sharpie or pencil and then have the file or stone (I would use a stone to limit the edge I take off until I get to root cause) pass across to pin point where the contact is.  Mark the "cheek" too. 

 

Are you sure this isn't from changing the angles?  If you go from 2 to 3, you will remove edge from the top before the bottom and if the file gets hung up on something above the edge, it can't get any further.  It sounds like you need to cut back your side wall as Alpinord stated.  There's plenty of post on how to do that too.

 

Ken

post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post

Have you cut back your side walls to remove possible irregularities affecting your edge cutting?

+1    And when you have, you can feel and hear the difference when filing.

 

post #7 of 8

SMJ, I prepped this post and video at the bottom after our talk recently. First I used the bastard to set edge geometry, then used the 100x diamond on another edge......all after planing the sidewall just into the top of the edge.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiMangoJazz View Post

What kind of strokes do you use with the file?

 

I start with light pressure maybe 1/4 of the length of the ski, 2-3 strokes - overlapping down the length.

 

Then 1/3 of the length, same pattern.

 

Then 1/2 of the length, starting to put more pressure on the file now, not too much though.

 

Then 1 or 2 long full length file strokes.

 

Followed of course by a succession of diamond stones, medium to fine.

 

And remove the hanging burr from the base edge with a light long stroke up the base edge bottom with a stone.

post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 

As in any endeavor which requires purchasing tools, you must purchase a multitude of tools to suit your needs some of which work others not so much.  What seemed to solve my problem was a few swipes with a panzar file with light pressure, overlapping strokes.  This pulled a little more material away from above the edge.  I followed this with a new file (10 inch chrome) which will be replacing the 8 inch mill file that I used before.  The bigger file has about twice the cross sectional thickness, so no bending or deflection.  Its also quite a bit wider, more surface area engaging the ski edge thereby eliminating any inadvertent tipping of the guide knocking the edge off.   I finished up with my blue diamond stone, some work on the base edge to clean up the burr.  After checking with a true bar I have eliminated the high spot that started this post.  

 

One thing that was confusing to me about sidewall pullers is that they are not for the removal of the cheek material, but the area above the cheek directly next to the edge.  I removed the cheek with a straight razor blade held at a steeper angle than the edge bevel and made sure it was gone with the panzar file.  It was this or buy a $140 FKS tool (I need money to ski this year).  You may be cringing at the razor blade idea but it actually pulled a very consistent sliver of the cheek off of the edge. I don't know if this will work on a ski with a very hard cap but my Progressor 7s are super soft on the side.

 

Thanks for the comments, and videos.  The only thing left to do is ride my sticks and see how I did.

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