There are a zillion opinions about this subject, and instead of pushing brands here is a basic idea that works great for me and is economical:
1) Use a "base" or another soft wax as base prep. Iron/scrape several times. The only exception is if you are using the Hertel Racing FC739 as a universal wax (use that as the base prep wax).
2) Use a quality universal wax of your choosing. You can purchase 200g - 500g bars at great prices. SWIX/TOKO, Holmenkol, Maplus, Hertel, Dominator, KUU, etc. all manufacture quality wax. It likely will not matter which brand you buy.
3) Use a warm or cold graphite or graphite/molybdenum wax with the universal wax at the extreme temperatures. Just rub it on the base (this way a bar lasts forever) and iron in the universal stuff over it. The graphite stuff has great anti-electrostatic properties in the extreme cold temps and repels dirt, pollen, etc. in the warmer temps.
4) Don't worry about moisture specific (the flouro stuff) wax unless you are racing.
5) Buy all your wax and tuning supplies from sponsors of this site. You can get honest information from them through phone calls or e-mails.
Granted, nothing beats having a full arsenal of specific temperature and moisture wax. But it really doesn't matter any more if you aren't a WC racer since most all-temp universal waxes do a decent job, and they can be made to work well in the extended temperature ranges by adding a little temperature specific graphite or graphite/molydebum wax.
Note: Others posting on this web site have a similar strategy for waxing at the extreme temperature ranges, using colored temperature specific waxes instead or graphite or a graphite/molydebum blend. I have no doubts that their combinations work for them. I'm just letting you know what has been working great for me.
Note well: Graphite wax will discolor clear/white/red/blue bases. Racers obviously don't care (many are on mostly black bases, anyway), but you might.
Edited by quant2325 - 11/18/10 at 12:11pm