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Suggestions/Comments Back to Skiing

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

20+ year layoff and now back to skiing with the kids. Video last March, very warm end of the day with slush over ice/hard pack. Just before steeper pitch on double black....


Thanks...I hope.



post #2 of 17

I'd be happy to make little short turns like that on my little short slalom skis.  You must have skied a lot before the layoff.  Nice that the kids are bringing you back to something you obviously enjoyed very much previously.

post #3 of 17

Hm, your profile states that you do CSIA level 2 for a living and that you ski 60 days per year. 20 year layoff?

post #4 of 17


Welcome back.

post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 

Not for a living....I wish I could ski for a living. Have worked hard at getting back to it. Yeah school, house, kids, spouse who dosen't ski. Would like to work on getting my 3 in the next year or two. Have had a lot of great help and guidence at my home hill and I've got a lot of miles in.

post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 

Skied for four years in high school, buddy of mine was a racer and I tagged along with them and carried coats, skis etc. and got some pointers along the way. Knew my hockey career wasn't going anywhere. When my kids got interested through there school (older unfortunatley) it was a blessing for me!!

post #7 of 17

Did not read any of above postings so you are getting an unbiassed opinion. Pritty good skiing. Very good actually. Nice rhythm and flow. Hips in the right place. Upper body remaining calm and arms and pole plant relaxed and independent of other body movements and without any quirky movements. You are a bit in the back seat and your arms could be more out to the side. Other than that I cannot see much to comment on. Looks like you used to be a very good skier. Now you come back with doubts but you find it very very easy with the new equipment. Thats what I think.


The big thing nowadays is carving and you that might be one area for you to look into. In your above video you are making regular skidded turns. Just the way they are supposed to be done in conditions like that. Note that not many can ski the way you do. Sorry not to have any more detailed suggestions for improvement. More video would be needed.



post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 

Thanks tdk6. Carving is a blast on the new equipment. Just not on this slope. You are exactly right on the point about doubts and using the new equipment, it is a learning curve from the old 200+cm skis. Will post some more video this season as training continues...

Looking forward to more comments from independent eyes.

post #9 of 17

So what would you do to ramp up those turns and make them more dynamic?

post #10 of 17

I agree with the comments above, nice skiing.  You do a lot of things right already and have a solid foundation to work from, especially if you are interested in making quicker more powerful short turns that will allow you to ski steeper more difficult natural terrain.  You are relaxed and it appears to me you are concentrating your center of energy focus and balance at the center of your chest, IMO this is a good thing. Your chest is traveling smoothly and square to the fall line, this shows commitment and can generate very positive edge hold and angles when making quicker turns.


For what it's worth from an opinionated non-certified skier, I'd suggest 4 things that would quickly return positive feedback when making QCT's, quick carved turns.


1.  Cut off your poles at least a couple of inches or more, they are impeding your pole plant mechanics which is extremely important when making short turns.  I'd suggest when standing in your ski boots, turn your pole upside down and hold your pole.  Start with your hand against your basket, I believe the angle at your elbow will be 90 degrees or maybe even less.  Now slide your hand down the pole until your hand drops 1" to 2" below the point where your elbow is at 90 deg.  Mark the pole at the top of your hand, I bet the distance from your basket to the new mark on your pole is at least 2".


2.  Work on improving your pole plant mechanics, remember the pole touch marks the end/finish of the turn and beginning of the new turn.  You do this naturally already, but because I believe your poles are to long, you are making more of a relaxed sideways stab when you touch your pole, instead of more crisply cocking your wrist/pole forward and more sternly flicking your pole touch further forward towards your ski tips and don't let that hand drop to your hip after the plant.  This will increase your shovel edge pressure which will be a big advantage when attempting to gain speed control in steeper terrain.  This allows you to powerfully complete the turn which sets you up perfectly to float through the transition into the next turn as you retract your feet and roll your edges over into the new turn.  Basically, I suggest you reach further down the hill when you stab your pole plant and keep your hands up.


3.  Another advantage to slightly shorter poles is it lowers your body which allows your legs to remain more flexed throughout the turn and allows you to generate more angulation as your feet will be allowed to travel out laterally further from your body, which will result in a rounder turn.  A rounder turn will enable you to have your skis/feet travel across or under your body at the turn finish.  In order to quicken the turn mechanics, I suggest you experiment with driving your shins forward as you stab your crisp pole plant.  This can generate a lot of energy at the turn finish and at first you may get "thrown" as the rebound energy launches you weightlessly into your next turn.  You'll get used to this with time as you practice it on steeper groomed.  In steeper, more difficult terrain you'll take advantage of this float phase to rest/recharge energy as you initiate and setup the next turn.  It gains you time to regroup and get your body centered and aligned for the next demanding speed controlling turn. 


4.  Experiment with the turn/turn/cha/cha/cha drill.  This really is a great centering and warm up drill which teaches you to make 3 turns that are much quicker than your "normal" turn.  regroup/rest/get centered during the turn/turn phase of the sequence. You'll get a variety of feedback when doing this drill.  You'll may get tossed forward, which you'll learn to control.   You'll start to really feel your skis rolling on the shovels back and forth under your body.  You'll be forced to reduce inefficient body and pole plant mechanics because you won't have time to do movements that are not needed or beneficial.  Over time, you'll be able to make 5, 7 or more very  quick turns before you lose control or fatigue.  The payoff is in steeper natural terrain you'll be able to make 3 very quick and powerful turns that can usually get you out of trouble and control unwanted speed.  They allow you to regroup at will, almost anywhere.


I've only focused on making QCT's, because that is what I believe you are showing and I believe is the most versatile turn a skier can perfect that can be used in any terrain.  If you'd like to see a couple of videos of what I'm describing, let me know as I don't want to "high jack" your thread.  Hope this helps you level up, you are already a very good skier.

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 



Would like to get legs longer out away from the body and engage the shovel before the fall line.......

post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 


Thanks for the comments. I have indeed been playing with the length of my poles, I believe your observations are correct. When looking at the video again I've noticed the plant out to the side a bit, was contemplating taking more off poles to see effect, ran out of time at the end of last season. Going to do it at the start of this one! Really trying not to overload the front of the boot and get stuck there (old school-big skis)...

Yes would like to see videos for sure.

post #13 of 17

rfl1, time for some suggestions from my side. The way you are skiing is kind of counterproductive in bumps. Or lets say it becomes counterproductive in bumps. You are not flexing to relese. You are extending to up-unweight. This cause problems in the bumps. Check out how to flex through the transition. Now your legs are not really working at all. No flexing or extending to absorbe bumps. You only flex in order to extend into the transition. This causes you to extend when you pass over a bump. This froces you to ski in the rutt.


Great feedback by nail but I have a slightly different opoinion on your pole plant and how you use your arms. I changed to shorter poles for SL last year. In GS I still use longer poles. Your problem as I see it is not the length of the poles except that you could use shorter ones as well, particulary in bumps, but I see some room for improvement in your pole plant that has nothing to do with the length of your poles. As you come through apex you bring your outside arm closer to your body and you drop it down. This movement is directly coupled to your hips that are dragged out into the turn and it causes your outside ski to lose valuable edge angle and skidd out. Its particulary visiable as you pass the camera and onwards. Nail told you to plant your pole with a flick of your wrist and not by moving your whole arm. That is a typical way of how mogul skiers do it and should I say the correct way of doing it in bumps but I personally do not teach it as I primarily teach all mountain skiing. So if you are not a bump fanatic or want become or look like one try swinging your pole more round and keep your arm way out from your body. Try to keep your upper body facing downhill. Plant your pole, or tap it, down in the fall line with an outside swing. This way you can use longer poles.

post #14 of 17
Originally Posted by rfl1 View Post



Would like to get legs longer out away from the body and engage the shovel before the fall line.......

This pritty much nails your problem. Since you are extending at transition you have a problem getting your legs longer out away from the body once you start turning. Flex through your transition to solve this flaw. Go low with your hips and butt. This is when you should be passing over a bump. Then extend. And you achieve getting your legs out from under the body. This way you will get much higher edge angles when you carve as well.

post #15 of 17

rtl1, make'm round and make'm count.  The steeper the terrain, the better and easier to execute the turns.  The turns have excellent speed control capabilities.  Hope these help and give you something to work on this coming season.


Nail's QCT's video


Trevor and Joey's Zermatt turns video

post #16 of 17

The core and torso need to move over the skis and into the new turn as the feet turn across the hill passing under the body and continuing out to the side. Cross under /over is less important than keeping these two parts of the body moving on their seperate paths. The crux of this is asking yourself how you can do this swoopy type of turn? There's no one right answer beyond making sure you don't brake with either part of your body. Which has more to do with a more confident and offensive mindset. Seek speed turning into the fall line, seek to maintain it turning across the hill. A round line helps with this but isn't the end of the story here. When you can accurately perform round turns, go for ellipical where the strong turning phase occurs in the middle third of the turn. Then the last third, and the first third. Again the key here is no speed loss from the turning effort itself. Let your line control your spped.

post #17 of 17
Originally Posted by Nailbender View Post

rtl1, make'm round and make'm count.  The steeper the terrain, the better and easier to execute the turns.  The turns have excellent speed control capabilities.  Hope these help and give you something to work on this coming season.


Nail's QCT's video


Trevor and Joey's Zermatt turns video

This is correct. You need to make them round to gain speed controll. This is why you need to extend your feet out into the turn. To get your skis on edge sooner in the turn. This is only possible if your skis are offset to your body early in the turn. Not if you stand ontop perpendicular to the fall line of them and use them to resist gravity pulling you down the hill way past apex.

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