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Has anyone Waterproofed their Clothes ?? (Did it work ?) - Page 2

post #31 of 34
Originally Posted by martini View Post

What would you use on Schoeller pants that cannot go in the dryer?  Seems like most DWR sprays require a tumble dry to activate. The pants care tag says line dry only.

Spray on when damp and dry naturally...... If you can put them on a drying rack so they sit flat then the DWR will dry in more evenly (and not head south!)

post #32 of 34


Originally Posted by skidel View Post

I have used Mikwax TX direct as well, but I don't understand recommending Ivory Flakes, or any other detergent for that matter to wash before you wash in the TX Direct.  Nikwax specifically says NOT to use any detergent on waterproof garments.  They make a non-detergent NikWax wash to be used before the TX Direct, and it's cheaper than the TX Direct.  When washing and re- waterproofing a jacket and pants worth as much as $1000 or more, I wouldn't skimp on the cost to re-establish it's waterproof qualities


Originally Posted by Pete No. Idaho View Post

You are right exceept -   Ivory flakes are not a detergent but natural soap no other ingredients and I use because a small box will last me 5 years and I use it on other clothes as well. Also probab ly  because I am cheap especially when a small bottle of Nikwax wash cost 800 % more.


Pete..... Terminology is a bit out here..... Soap IS a detergent.  Nikwax TecWash is also a detergent.


What sets them (Simple soap flakes and tech washes) apart from other Laundry detergent products is their lack of additives - enzymes, perfumes, etc which can clog/wear/destroy technical fabric layers and DWR coatings.  You want to clear the dirt out of the technical membrane and have it rinse clear to maintain breathability.  You also want to be less abrasive on the DWR so to remove as little as possible (the waterproofing sprays stick to and replenish this layer).


The simpler the wash, the better..... Tec wash and/or simple soap flakes both work equally well. 


To pay for the tec wash and then use wash-in waterproofer seems crazy to me as you are at risk of clogging the membranes again, let alone the liners/fill (I know they say they are safe on gore-tex, etc)..... I will always recommend a simple wash followed by a DWR spray on technical fabrics.

post #33 of 34

Three brands of "real" outdoors wear coatings:





All seem to work equally well for me...about half as good as I'd like and none keeps gloves dry.  I looked for Ivory soap flakes and none of the local grocery stores carry it any more.  There are a couple of brands of soap (or additive-free detergent or whatever) for outdoor wear that are moderate cost.  If your stuff is really grungy, wash it in ordinary laundry detergent first to get it clean, then wash it in the special sauce to get the detergent residue out.

post #34 of 34

First, the effectiveness of thee products is contingent on the fabric itself. Some fabrics, like coarser nylons on gloves, I've found will not take the waterproofing well. Some cheap kids clothes that I have used it on take the coating really well, and others don't seem to bond to it whatsoever.


At this point I almost exclusively use the TX Direct wash in. In my experience it actually lasts longer than many factory DWR coatings.


As far as washing, If it's not actually dirty I just run it with water. I've also successfully used the Tech wash, but am 90% sure you are paying for a fairly simple product. I have used a glycerin soap bar I had lying around (I think it was Purpose brand), rubbing some into stains, and dissolving a bit in the wash. This worked very well.


It may be that the relative insolubility of real soap compared to synthetic detergent that makes it less likely to penetrate and clog the pores of the membrane.



For dring I simply follow the manufacturer's label. If it says perm press I do that. If it says drip dry I do that. Nikwax claims that since the TX Direct is water based it does not need to be heat activated.

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