OK. I'm 5'10" and 170 lbs. A struggling intermediate who learned to ski with cable bindings and lace up boots. Just bought my first ever season pass in the PNW, paid for with my 1st Soc. Sec. check. As another ski, what is a good choice for Cascade powder days skiing with lots of turns at a leisurely pace. As a point of reference, the current quiver includes 174 Shuksan's ($99) with Dynafit Comfort's, 178 Manaslu's ($300) and 174 Soloman Hot Chili's (free). Plan to mount Tyrolia LD12's (free) and power them with Flexon Comp's ($5) with Intuition Power Wraps ($70). Reason for prices is I am also crazy frugal so no $1000 suggestions. I'm hip with core makeup, flex, rocker, rise and turn radius so what you got?
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Intermediate Powder/crud ski for me?post #1 of 96/12/10 at 7:22pmThread Starterpost #2 of 96/15/10 at 5:19pm
Not sure what "hip with...." means (any possible combo will do? I like all of the following? I don't care? Jack Kerouac is my favorite author?) , but what you describe fits moderately fat, moderately flexy skis with a deep sidecut and enough gravitas for PNW snow. I'd say Elan 1010, Nordica Enforcer, Dynastar Big Trouble, maybe K2 Obsethed. All can be found at very good prices sometimes, except Enforcers, which are seldom around for cheap. Try a Google, I know BT's are at Level 9 for silly cheap.
Also confused how you can be a struggling intermediate (although appreciate the honesty) and have all these backcountry setups. Which I see as calling for more skills than groomers. But then there's a lot that confuses me in the world...post #3 of 96/15/10 at 11:58pm
Actually they were practically giving away Enforcers this season. A great ski and a several of my friends bought the current model new for $399. That still seems like more than you paid for any of your other skis. IMO an Enforcer is a lot better than any of your other skis.post #4 of 96/16/10 at 9:58am
For PNW Powder / Crud - personally I really like the Fischer Watea 94. I demoed them in March at Stevens Pass, than went out and bought a pair. You can get the 2010 Watea 94's for $449 right now (available locally or online) - not cheap, but their MSRP is $900.post #5 of 96/17/10 at 1:31pm
Where are you skiing in the Cascades. Demo in order to make the proper decision. Example: post previous to this recommends the Watea 94, demoed at Mammoth last year and do not like that ski, found it to be an almost dead ski. Everyone is different and skis differently -demo.post #6 of 97/13/10 at 6:23pm
So many skis that are quality stuff are available online at this time for a good price. If skiing out west (where I ski), I assume powder and crud are what you want the ski for. You'll get a different suggestion from every person who offers, depending on what they ski and what they like. These are only suggestions: Don't go too long. At your height and weight a ski of around 170 cm will give you a comfortable ride, float well, and turn easily. Also with the new technology, go somewhere between 90 and 100 mm under the ski boot, ensuring that it behaves in all conditions. Lastly, if you want the ski to be comfortable for someone who turns lots and doesn't want to break the sound/speed barrier, get a riser for your binding so you can get a wider ski from edge to edge quicker. Powder 11 guys will swear you don't need a riser. I have tried it both ways, and getting your boot higher off the ski on a wider ski makes a huge difference. I ski the Nordica Enforcer as one of my skis. If you ski in the Rockies and HAD to have one ski that would be OK in most conditions, it would fit the bill. I like to turn, and when I first mounted a binding flat on the ski (no rise) I found it to be slow edge to edge. I then mounted a Marker Gryphon (found it online for $159) and what a difference. The Gryphon is a wide ride binding and sits well off the ski top, both traits allowing me to get from edge to edge faster - made the ski into a no brainer to ski. Take this for what it's worth, just my 2 cents - I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions.
post #7 of 97/15/10 at 7:03am
I have a pair of HEAD SR2 skis for sale..i got them from the Head factory in Boulder CO in 1980.
They're BRAND NEW NEVER USED and still in the original plastic wrapping!
What will you give me for them?
They're really goood skiis and pure vintage at that.
my email is firstname.lastname@example.org
Edited by HeadSR2 - 7/16/10 at 10:46ampost #8 of 97/17/10 at 3:10pmpost #9 of 97/18/10 at 10:34am
The problem you have is that the structure and design of a good powder ski and a good crud/chop ski are markedly different -- especially the shovel (front). Powder skis are very soft so that the tip can rise and rolling the ski allows it to turn by deflection - as opposed to securing an edge and carving. In fact for most powder skis you are really skiing (on top of the snow) with a ski that is 20 cm shorter.
On the other hand - with a crud ski you want weight and firmness ... you want to develop enough momentum (speed times mass) to drive your way through the irregular terrain.
BTW a good powder ski does better in crud and a good crud ski does in powder.
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