No, but I once went to the Pelz 3-day short game school, and it was a real eye-opener. It sounds like the philosophy is exactly the same, though. The basic idea is to have 3 or 4 wedges that will give you 12 or 16 consistent distances from the same swing, with the only difference being the distance of the backswing. So you have, for example, a 7:30, 9:00 , 10:30 (looking at a clock) and full swing. If you choke down on each club with the same swing, you can get another 12 or 16 consistent distances. It works great for me, and I guess a whole bunch of the pros that Pelz coaches. The whole dynamic sole grind thing is all about crafting a sole that allows for normal shots off the fairway, and allows bunker (sand) shots with the face wide open w/o blading the ball. Everyone does it now. The soles of the wedges should be different for the times when you have different lies closer to the green or difficult bunker shots. In theory htting off hardpan would require a sole different that being buried in 4" of grass for optimal consistency. FWIW, I've played many wedges throughout the years and find Cleveland to make the best (at least for me). No gimmics, just wedges that look great at address and perform well. Be careful with the shafts, though. Make sure they are close of the same as what you have in your irons. Pelz thinks the shafts should be softer for a couple of reasons, and after experimenting (I assemble and work on clubs for fun), I agree, at least for the 60 and 64 degree ones. Just to make things more complicated, you may not get the distances you want from your new set of wedges. so you may want to see a clubmaker about lengthening or shortening the shaft to fill in that gap in distance. I collect and play with hickory shafted clubs (the really old ones) and can attest that the above wedge philosophy works well with the old niblicks, too. They may not have the ground soles that allow flop shots off shorter grass, but the distance control is much better using modern wedge technique.