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Which wax for a hot box?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 

Most of the talk about wax for hot boxing seems to center on plain hydrocarbon waxes which then get a layer of fluoro by iron over the top. But is there any reason why you wouldn't use a low fluoro or even a high fluoro wax to soak in then scrape, brush and ski?


Where i am coming from is I am not after the absolute fastest wax for just one run, I want a good glide which doesn't run out half way through the day, and hot boxing seems to get better absorption and durability. Also bear in mind that I am using surface lifts all day so the skis will cover double the distance per day compared with using chair lifts.

post #2 of 5

I'm not a fan of ot boxes. The heat needed to melt the wax can ruin a ski, and the temps typical to hot boxes will not melt the wax to allow it to soak in. The way to make a fast ski with lots of wax impregnated is to wax scrape brush a bunch of times before first us,, and then wax scrape brush after every time on the snow.


Tat said, if you really want to hot box, use the softest wax. 

post #3 of 5

Personally I'm a bit on one and a bit on other side when it comes to hotboxes. They are definitely worse then preparing skis "traditional" way (with 15, 20 wax cycles and with traditional iron). But when you are serviceman and you have 30, 40, 50 pairs of skis to prepare, hotbox is like gift from heaven. Back in my WC days, I had one of first ones on market (race market not open public market), and it was expensive like hell. I'm sure its quality was way below today's standards, but even then it was huge time saver. They don't really "ruin skis", but you have much more control over all this with iron in your hands, then with skis inside of hotbox.

Now what wax... I saw until now already, that most people around here think, fluoro waxes are bad for skis. In reality this is not true. I have been using high fluoro waxes (of course not powders or blocks like Toko Streamline) for pretty much everything.... from new ski preparations to transport wax. You really want to have as much fluoro in base as possible. But this was World cup racing, not Sunday racing or even free skiing. Nowadays, when I need to prepare skis just for my own skiing (just fun without any competition), I never use fluoro anymore. It's easier and much healthier to work with non fluoro waxes, and on top of that, they are A LOT cheaper then fluoro waxes. And for me it really doesn't matter if ski is a bit slower. But if you are racing, and you can afford spending money for high fluoro waxes used as preparation or transport wax, then HFs are definitely way to go.

post #4 of 5

I usually start my hotboxing with a handful of rounds using soft hydrocarbon waxes (after the ski has been ground and fibretexted). This usually gets the bases real greasy. Then I move down to a harder wax, usually more temp specific to what my skis will see (for most of my speed skis that is CH6). The softer wax opens the bases up, and the harder wax hardens the base and adds protection from firm snow. After I do this I usually just wax on the wax of the day, and if I have time I throw the skis in the hotbox with the wax of the day after going over them with the iron several times. You can hotbox with fluoros, but don't bother conditioning the skis with fluoro wax. CH does the job damn well, and its cheap. The only time I hotbox with fluoros is if the wax of the day is a fluoro.

post #5 of 5

I have not used a Hot Box for waxing . I remember a good artice on Slidewrights web site about using Briko-Maplus Race Base Soft Wax to Hot Box. I use this same wax to condition any new ski or freshly ground ski with multiple re-ironings then cooling, scraping and brushing. Following with several coats of Briko-Maplus Race Base Medium Wax. The Race Base Medium Wax will give your skis the extra glide and much longer lasting durability you are looking for with out the much higher cost of Low- High Flo Waxes. You can check out the reveiws on this wax on this site. Good luck.

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