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Base structure

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
My riller bar is wearing out from running across the hard steel edges.  Tognar isn't selling new bars so I've been looking for options.  Anybody use brass all-thread backed by a block of wood in lieu of a riller bar?  I'm thinking of trying a 4-40 for fine structure and a 10-28 or 10-32 thread for a course structure.  I just wanted to know if anybody else has tried this.
post #2 of 9
It might work, easy and cheap enough to try out. Since they are threads it might tend to pull to the side or skew due to the pitch....

I have a bras rilling bar if you are interested, I think I've only used it 2 or 3 times.
post #3 of 9
It's easy enough to try as krp8128. There are any number of ways to impart or abrade a structure into plastic bases. I have a pair of very fast skis that I used sandpaper, wire brushes, riller bar and fiber tech on at various times. Just be sure to remove any hairies that may be created by the threads if they cut more than the riller bar would. Seems like angling the all-thread to align with the base would be easy enough to control. If not perfectly straight, it's no big deal. Start easy.
post #4 of 9
Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post

Seems like angling the all-thread to align with the base would be easy enough to control. If not perfectly straight, it's no big deal. Start easy.

That is kind of what I was thinking. Personally, I find that the riller bar isn't all that usefull, as it always rides on the edges and hardly touches the base (if you ave a perfectly flat base). So if the OP want's mine, I'm more then willing to sell.

Terry, how come you don't carry the brass riller anymore? Do you recall what they went for?
post #5 of 9
Getting them on a reliable basis was a PITA and the Ski Visions is a superior, longer lasting alternative. Last price in database was $13 less EpicSki discount. We may add them back. Thanks for the reminder.
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Well, I tried some steel all-thread on an old pair of skis.  It's really hard to apply enough pressure to indent the P-tex.  I also tried it while the P-tex was warm to see if that made a difference.  I backed the small diameter rods with a slotted block of wood and still couldn't exert enough pressure.

Now I'm thinking about getting some 1" dia. bronze bar stock.  Turning the OD so it has a large diameter longitudinal radius to it then grooving it.  The large diameter longitudinal radius combined with the larger diameter rod will allow me to apply more pressure to a specific area of the ski.  I can then rock or relocate the bar for the next pass to structure an adjacent strip.  Repeat until the whole base is structured.
post #7 of 9
The home method using riller bars or whatever is just too complex and error-prone for me, and I'm an experience tuner.  When I need a restructuring, the ski either goes to a shop I trust, or, more likely, one of my Masters racing buddies, who has his own stone grinder and knows how to use it because he spent a lot of time practicing on some rocked out, never-to-be skied on again skis...

post #8 of 9
I screwed around for a while with hacksaw blades and a structuring product from Tognar, with poor results (Tognar don't sell that product any more).  Then I got a Skivisions system from Terry (Alpinord) for base structuring (about $60 with epic discount) and have been using it for a season now.    I find it neither difficult nor time consuming. Took me 1 pair of skis to dial in the technique and I've been very happy with the results which I find consistent.  I'd recommend this for structuring and suggest you can spend too much time trying to press grooves into Ptex with threaded bars with short lived and variable results.
post #9 of 9
I have also been using the Skivisions Base Flattener for many years. I had previously used riller bars, silicon carbide sandpaper, etc., but the  Skivisions is the favorite and is ideal for the at home tuner.
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