EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Tapping of my Head John's necessary?
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Tapping of my Head John's necessary?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hey all,

Just picked up a pair of Head Johns, and got myself some Mojo 15 bindings... got the 4.1 * 9mm drill bit and a 92 Tyrol Jig.

Now... I think thats everything I need.... But I do have access to a #12 AB ski tap ....

Do I need it? And if so... how do I use it?

Im under the impression
that I dont need to because I think that Johns dont have metal layers...

I may be wrong on the Johns not having metal... and I may also be wrong on whether I should tap my skis...

Heck... If I have the wrong drill bit... let me know. But by le Tyrol Tech manual I do have correct one...

Please help me.

Im giving'er on these skis ASAP.

thanks!
post #2 of 9
I'd tap them.
Tapping is easy -- the only tricky parts are getting started straight and stopping when you get to depth (forcing a tap that has bottomed out will really strip holes).  I put a piece of tape around mine to match the length of the drill bit.  I tapped a piece of scrap wood to get the feel before I did the real thing.

Oh, and I think you may have gotten the wrong bit -- usually the larger diameter one is for metal layerd skis, the 3.5 mm is for no-metal.
(I bought both bits -- figured I'd have them forever).

If you don't have a jig, I'd try to find a drill press you can use -- much easier than trying to stay vertical and watch your depth with a hand drill.  (I've done that, but it's a bit nervous-making.)

If you know your way around tools, you'll be fine.  If not, you might want to rethink the do-it-yourself.

Oh, and there are paper templates on TGR that help placing the screws (for many brands) immensely.

Edit - read much?  I see you do have a jig.  I don't know if your tech manual overrides the usual rules on bit diameter.
post #3 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdf View Post

Oh, and I think you may have gotten the wrong bit -- usually the larger diameter one is for metal layerd skis, the 3.5 mm is for no-metal.
(I bought both bits -- figured I'd have them forever).

mdf is correct, no metal=3.5mm bit. It should say somewhere on the skis what bit to use.


I've never tapped the holes in a pure wood core ski, and have even gotten away with not tapping a ski that had a layer of metal in it, only because my tap was 8 hours away.
post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Thanks Guys,

Yeah. i read in the Tyrolia Tech manual that I should use a 4.1 x 9 mm drill bit, but I do see a 3.5mm on my skis.

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
post #5 of 9
My 2009 Mojo 94 (last year's ski that was renamed the John 94 for 2010) has two metal layers and I used a 4.1mm bit and tapped the holes.

Take a look at the side of your skis, and maybe you can solve a mystery some have been wondering about.  Do you see a shiny layer of aluminum visible just below the top sheet skin and above the sidewalls?  I have heard some say there *is* metal in the John (which I'd expect, since they are supposed to be identical to the 09 Mojo), others say no.  There is a lot of confusion about this, including from Head reps.  Be good to get a visual check. 

You can see the shiny metal layer in this pic of my Mojos (skis in the foreground, the one with the white Alta sticker on the tip catches the light just right to show the metal):

fe2659c2_IMG_0775.JPG
post #6 of 9
By John do you mean Jon? If you do then you should just screw straight into the wood (3.5 mm bit for the hole I think, but it will tell you).
post #7 of 9
 oh sorry I didn't realize it was a different ski. I have no idea then. If it is a normal wood core ski like Head's park skis then what I said should still be true.
post #8 of 9
3.6mm bit for skis without metal
4.1mm bit for skis with metal under the bindings
3.5mm for junior skis & bindings
http://tognar.com/binding_tools_boot_canting_glue_ski_snowboard.html#drillbits

Even for skis without metal, tapping the holes (cutting threads in the holes) results in a stronger mount.  The screw threads have a full depth groove to hold into, not the reduced threads they make by pushing the material out of the way.
post #9 of 9
If you are unsure if any ski has a metal layer in it and you have both bits you can drill with the smaller diameter first and if you get metal shavings switch to the larger bit and follow with the tap. I'ts not difficult to tap the threads by hand, the main thing as mentioned previously is to not go too far. If you have a drill press you can chuck the tap up and twist it in by hand with light pressure on the spindle, bearing in mind the thickness of the ski is likely slightly tapered and some adjustment of the level of the drill press table to get it absolutely square may be neccessary, but honestly I have found just carefully tapping by hand to be sufficient, just use a little but not a lot of pressure to get it started and it will pull itself in. If you are not totally confident a practice mount on a board is a good thing to do.

Also,when you have drilled all the holes, be sure to turn the ski over and knock the shavings out!
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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Tapping of my Head John's necessary?