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Binding Mount Position for Hart F17 Mogul

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
I'm looking for some advice on mounting Look Pivot P14s on Hart F17 mogul skis.  I am 5'11" and 180lbs.  I went back and forth between the 175cm and 168cm ski.  Ultimately, I opted for the 168cm which is slightly short.  I haven't skied the bumps in years but long ago I could shred pretty good...   I'm over 40 now and I'm hoping that I can get back to skiing the zipperline.  So, I went for the 168 to slow me down just a little.

The standard recommendation for mounting on these skis is +2cms forward.  However, since I went slightly short, I'm wondering if I should calibrate that a little bit and do something like +1 cm? Or should I just stick with +2?  Anyone have any advice here?
Edited by JimSa - 3/6/10 at 3:18pm
post #2 of 9
 Hi Jim, Assuming that you have the Classic F17, like mine,.....
I mounted mine +2.

I really like all of the Hart skis that I've owned but don't trust the mount points.
I think you'll really like those F17's!!

My stats:
43 YO
5'6" 
135 lbs
Ski length 168
post #3 of 9
 Jim, if in doubt, you can measure the halfway point between tip and tail contact points, mark it on the ski, and then line up your ski boot so that your ball of foot (BOF) would be over that line.  It's a useful reference.  You wouldn't want to mount forward of that point, but from that point going back ~2 cm is where almost all skis are mounted (I like going back about 1.5cm myself).

Compare this direct measurement with the mount based on the factory line, factor in the +2 advice, and go from there.  I almost always make a BOF measurement before mounting new skis, just to be sure.  In most cases, it puts me close to the factory line.  In cases where skis have been mis-marked from the factory, or contain a range of mount points (ruler scale on the ski), the BOF method helps me find the right mount point (again, about 1.5cm back for me).

BTW, an easy way to find where your BOF lies in the ski boot is to tap the side of the boot with a hammer until you feel where the BOF is next to the shell, and mark that point on the outside.
post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Skier219 - Thanks the for the tip.   Good way to cross check.  Just so I understand, I am assuming that I'm trying to identify the trailing (back) edge of BOF vs. the midpoint BOF on the boot.

TrekChick - I actually purchased the Hart F17 WC.  It has a slightly narrower waist and has dimensions that are slightly more similar to the IDOne and Twister (if I recall correctly).  Thanks for the confirmation on mounting.  Your height/weight vs ski length makes me question my logic about going slightly shorter to slow it down just a touch in the bumps.  I'm second guessing myself with regard to length...

Curious if anyone thinks I made I mistake by going with the 168cm vs 175cm?  Is my logic sound? Since I have not mounted these yet, it's probably not too late to switch out. 

Thanks!
post #5 of 9
You went too short.  The 168 isn't really going to slow you down (that's old straight ski thinking coming into play).
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSa View Post

Skier219 - Thanks the for the tip.   Good way to cross check.  Just so I understand, I am assuming that I'm trying to identify the trailing (back) edge of BOF vs. the midpoint BOF on the boot.

 


Not sure what you mean, but the idea behind a pure BOF mount would be to put the ball of your foot (the part of foot between mid-foot and the big toe) right over the ski's center of running surface (CRS, the halfway point between forward and rear contact points).  In most cases, I like to be 1-2cm aft of a pure BOF mount.  At 1-2 aft, I often find the boot's midsole mark coming close to the ski's factory mark in many cases (but that's pure coincidence, since you never know what goes into determining the factory mark or what particular boot size they use to spec it).  Unless skiing park, you'd likely never want to go forward of the BOF@CRS point.
post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skier219 View Post

Not sure what you mean, but the idea behind a pure BOF mount would be to put the ball of your foot (the part of foot between mid-foot and the big toe) right over the ski's center of running surface (CRS, the halfway point between forward and rear contact points).  In most cases, I like to be 1-2cm aft of a pure BOF mount.  At 1-2 aft, I often find the boot's midsole mark coming close to the ski's factory mark in many cases (but that's pure coincidence, since you never know what goes into determining the factory mark or what particular boot size they use to spec it).  Unless skiing park, you'd likely never want to go forward of the BOF@CRS point.

 

Great explanation.  Thanks.
post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSa View Post

Skier219 - Thanks the for the tip.   Good way to cross check.  Just so I understand, I am assuming that I'm trying to identify the trailing (back) edge of BOF vs. the midpoint BOF on the boot.

TrekChick - I actually purchased the Hart F17 WC.  It has a slightly narrower waist and has dimensions that are slightly more similar to the IDOne and Twister (if I recall correctly).  Thanks for the confirmation on mounting.  Your height/weight vs ski length makes me question my logic about going slightly shorter to slow it down just a touch in the bumps.  I'm second guessing myself with regard to length...

Curious if anyone thinks I made I mistake by going with the 168cm vs 175cm?  Is my logic sound? Since I have not mounted these yet, it's probably not too late to switch out. 

Thanks!

I am familiar with the difference between the classic F-17 and the WC version,....you are correct on the differences.
IMHO you went too short on that ski.  If I were you, I'd have gone for the 175(6)? with your stats.
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Combining with other sources, there seems to be some consensus that I went too short.  So I'm going to exchange them out  for 175cm before I mount (at +2).

Thanks all!
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