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Alternative Canting Approach

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I know this is a gear issue but I think some who frequent this forum may have more experience with this issue.

I am in the process of getting new boots this season (Dalbello CRX Impulse or Superride). I have had my alignment checked out in them and expect to need 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of cant on each side - I will ski my first day or two with temporary heel wedges to be sure this is correct.

My normal choice for canting (given current technologies) would be to grind the boot sole to the needed angle, add a plate on the bottom, and route the top of the toe back to din. However, as I do some climbing in my ski boots I consider it a real risk factor to have slick plates (even more so than normal boot soles) on my toe and heel.

So my plan is to remove the heel and toe (removable grips) and fit standard binding cant material underneath them before replacing them. Then I will have the top surface of toe and heel routed back to DIN specs.

My question is whether anyone has experience with this apporach? Will the minimal thickness of a 1.5 to 2 degree cant affect the hold or seating of the screw? Is it possible to heat the cant material and make a sharp bend in it to match the bevel on the boot heal and toe? Is it a reasonable assumption that the small amount of material which needs to be removed from the top of heel and toe (already relatively thin because of the removable heel and toe grips on the boot sole) will not sufficiently affect the strength of them enough to worry about?

Thanks for any help.
post #2 of 12
I'm not qualified to answer your question but have you considered canting your bindings instead? I have had success with this approach. Its a pain if you would like to be able to demo skis but I just don't have confidence in the local shop guys who grind, or my own shop skills!
post #3 of 12
Hi Si,
Les Moise Ski Shop in Milwaukee that I've worked with to get set up for grinding ataches 3mm, 5mm, or 8mm thick sole plates after grinding before routering the top of heel/toe back to DIN. They try to choose so as to minimize the cut. Racers will choose 8mm just to add some lift. 1-degree cant strips are about 2mm on thick side and add 1mm per degree after that. So I think you should be ok.

Note: some boots have a 'hollow' toe and cannot be cut down as much.
Good luck,
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
I have eliminated under-binding cants as a solution for reasons previously discussed in other threads although I used to have them.

Thanks for your advice, I was hoping you would respond as I highly value your knowledge and experience in this regard. Want to join Evan, Hannah, and I at Solitude over Thanksgiving and help me check out my alignment with my new boots? . While this offer may sound like a jest you would always be welcome to join us.

BTW, since the Dalbello's only have a half thickness of hard plastic for the toe (the rest is the removable toe plate) I am pretty sure it's solid.

[ October 27, 2003, 08:38 PM: Message edited by: Si ]
post #5 of 12
Instead of using standard race plates, I have seen vibram soles attached to alpine boots at the surefoot in whistler... If you are racing, I would not do this, just grind, lift and use "cat tracks" when you climb. If the type of climbing is skitouring, then vibram would be awesome.

As for inserting cant shims between the boot and toe/heel piece... I don't think that it would be very accurate, because the interface between the two pieces is rarely flat. It might be worth try... but I would stick to traditional methods

post #6 of 12
I have done what you describe. It works fine. I have not tried the bend at the heel and toe. I would suggest using JB Weld to fill those voids. I have used it with good results on other plasic jobs including some filling on boots.
Put the cant strips in place and route the tops.
post #7 of 12
If the boot has replacable toe piece it is not advisable to add a lifter (or cant material) to the bottom and then grind the top of the toe lug back to D.I.N. as the toe lug would be so thin that it could fail. Be careful! Planing and lifting for boots was developed around race boots with solid soles (at least the toes) and not recreational boots.
post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks a lot, that's quite helpful. I thought of doing just what you said but I was hesitant as it wouldn't give me a solid platform to screw down the beveled part of the heel and toe plates. However, I am sure that can be done by eye. As I am not familiar with JB weld can you just tell me a little bit about the material? Thanks!


There are people out there adding plates that are much thicker than canting strips and then grinding the toes of the Dalbello. I am assuming that 1 to 2 mm removal of material from the top of the toe will not compromise things. Certainly, to try and add an 8mm plate and grind that much off the toe on the Dalbello could lead to failure.
post #9 of 12
Have you considered going with the new Lange 120 Comp or one of their other boots. They have standard 1.5 degree canted toe & heel lugs available this year. No Mods or grinding, just screw them on! I skied with them at Whistler in May. Worked great and they are replaceable when they wear out. Since I think Dalbello's are fairly roomy in the forefoot, the 120 Comp comes in a Mid-Fit last. Roomier last than Lange of past. I have a very wide forefoot & high instep & the 120 Comp works well. Also has bi-injected shell materail at the throat making the Flex very smooth & even without being ultra stiff or too soft. Also if you are racing this year this set-up should meet the 45mm boot sole standheight rules that are new this year and apply to all racers.

[ October 29, 2003, 08:37 PM: Message edited by: Atomicman ]
post #10 of 12
Si, JB weld is a machinable plastic metal product well documented to stand up to tough usage: JB Weld
post #11 of 12
Thanks Kneale
I've been experiencing some computor glitching.
In a couple cases where I put lifters on boots and started to break through on the top the JB Weld fixed it fine. On one pair the 6ft 200 lb kid skied about 100 days on the boots with no problems(including summer camp at Hood)
In times past the bindings had a height adjustment so I would just level the tops to the bottoms and adjust the binding. Once on a pair of Salomons I broke through and filled them up with the stuff they use to repair plastic car bumpers(my daughter works for a body shop supply place)
post #12 of 12
JB weld is good stuff. But the real deal is Kalex Urethane.
It is a two-part high peel strength flexable adhesive with a D-50 shore hardness. What that translates to is that this stuff is designed to stick-to and match the durometer of ski boot shell material. It is avaliable from Sun Vally Ski Tools and I think Tognar Tool Works as well. Back before I could get the plates to put on the soles, Kalex is what I always used to build up the top of toe and heel (after a sole cant grind) before cutting them back down to the DIN. Now I just use it to fill that gappage that occurs when end of boot sole and sole plate bevels do not match.
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