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Head SS Magnum w/ CP13 plate

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Do they take only Head bindings? Would love to put on Marker but they are pre drilled and look like made for Head setup...
post #2 of 13
Head or Tyrolia if you use the plate that comes with it.
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Thanks
post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie-Rich View Post

Head or Tyrolia if you use the plate that comes with it.

Or Fischer.... just fitted my sons new Heads with old Fischer bindings. BTW, why do OP want to use Markers? I have just switched from Tyrolia to Marker but just curios why you want to use Markers. The reason I switched was that I started using the piston plate from marker and that only takes Marker bindings. I personally found the Tyrolias to be very good bindings and with the marker line Im only satisfied with the racing binding 10-20 din. The lower din bindings like the 14 is not the same thing.

But I have a suggestion for you. Do what I did on a pair of Head cross skis a while back. Take the original plate and scrap it. Its a POS. I used a VIST racing plate to replace the useless CP13 but today I would offcourse use a piston plate if I was going to use Marker. On a VIST racing plate you can use eather Marker or Tyrolia.
post #5 of 13
Yes to what  tdk6 said,  the Head and Fischer FreeFlex bindings are just rebranded Tyrolia bindings....which in turn is owned by Head....weird I know.   But I have VIST, Head WC and Head CP13 plates on my skis, they are different but they do the job just fine.   I didnt want to say anything, but I also agree....to go from Head to Marker....thats a step backwards.
Edited by Richie-Rich - 2/24/10 at 4:25pm
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
I thought on prior Tyrolias that the adhesion was not as solid and felt a degree or two of weak edge hold on one ski on a pair of AMC 76's. A Head WC ski worked well, probably an installation/adjustment issue. Glad to hear your positives about the bindings and I will have them pro inslalled w/ the hope of a tight boot-ski-plate for max carving power angles.
post #7 of 13
The comp model 10-20din I have on my racing skis now are way better designed than the lower din models. What I in particular dont like on the lower din Markers are the stoppers that stick out to the side. On the Tyrolias they fold in tuck flush with the binding itself. We are talking serious carving angles but never the less, if they stick out like they do on some bindings they have no place on my skis.

The VIST carving plates are rigid solid with great power transmision. The narrow baby toy platic CP13 does not hold the binding in place like a real racing plate. Not for high performance. 
post #8 of 13
If he's buying the Magnum skis, he most likely is not buying them for any serious racing.  I think that the plates that came on my 08 SuperShape Speed are CP13...I dont know, they might be the SP13.   But I have used them on ASRA GS and NASTAR often...they work fine.

Lance, with regards to Tyrolia bindings, if you were thinking about maybe some Railflex bindings, which I agree dont have as solid a feel as say the metal race bindings which are called FreeFlex.  The FF bindings are what you would use the plate.
post #9 of 13
Richie-Rich, offcourse the CP13s are ok for normal skiing. Ive been using them on ski-school skis for years and on some of my own. But the improvement in edge hold and responce and how solid the skis felt was quite surpricing.

I was using the FF bindings when I used Tyrolias. But they have become more plastic over the years. I ended up using the higher din racing bindings with more metal in them than the normal bindings. I was buying them used since they were quite expensive as new. The rubber belt under the toe pc was something I did not come to terms with on some of the standard models. On the racing bindings there was the old style white plastic strip.
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
The rubber tread is the worst, and I suspect it deters some stability. The Markers on my Blizz SSonicss are the best levers ever, may be due to the integrated interface of the binding into the ski. The toe plate on the Marker has two elevated projections on the outside of the under toe piece  that may aid the leverage of the boot on the edge; looking at the flat base and  rubber on the Head toepiece makes me wonder if this defeats leverage....I am almost 59 and don't race but live for the high speed carve; the rules forbid a din over 6 for me which is fine, I may buy the higher rated toe piece if the old issues resurface. Or maybe just replace the plate and throw some Markers on. Should hit Mammoth next week to see what is what.
post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carving Lance View Post

The rubber tread is the worst, and I suspect it deters some stability. The Markers on my Blizz SSonicss are the best levers ever, may be due to the integrated interface of the binding into the ski. The toe plate on the Marker has two elevated projections on the outside of the under toe piece  that may aid the leverage of the boot on the edge; looking at the flat base and  rubber on the Head toepiece makes me wonder if this defeats leverage....I am almost 59 and don't race but live for the high speed carve; the rules forbid a din over 6 for me which is fine, I may buy the higher rated toe piece if the old issues resurface. Or maybe just replace the plate and throw some Markers on. Should hit Mammoth next week to see what is what.

Rules!?
We don't need no schtinking rules. 

That would be a 3 on the chart; maybe you are a 3++ skier.

If a 6 works for you leave them there, safer for your knees.  If you find yourself in bumpy high speed situations where loosing a ski means serious injury or death, crank them up.
post #12 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carving Lance View Post

The rubber tread is the worst, and I suspect it deters some stability. The Markers on my Blizz SSonicss are the best levers ever, may be due to the integrated interface of the binding into the ski. The toe plate on the Marker has two elevated projections on the outside of the under toe piece  that may aid the leverage of the boot on the edge; looking at the flat base and  rubber on the Head toepiece makes me wonder if this defeats leverage....I am almost 59 and don't race but live for the high speed carve; the rules forbid a din over 6 for me which is fine, I may buy the higher rated toe piece if the old issues resurface. Or maybe just replace the plate and throw some Markers on. Should hit Mammoth next week to see what is what.

Hell of a lot of guessing going on there! If the AMC 76s had Railflex, then your answer may be there - not as solid a platform as a CP13, or a real race plate, but more than solid enough for most mere mortals.

As for rubber???? Where? That ABS AFD is hard plastic and almost as slippery as a regular teflon AFD. It rolls to get your boot out of the binding with as little friction as possible. I've heard that Vibram soles don't play well with ABS, but with regular alpine lugs its a tried and tested platform.

The current SS Magnum has the SpeedPlate+ 13, which I've looked at instore. Its an "upgraded" CP13 and appears more solid than the older plate. More confidence inspiring to the eyeball at least.
post #13 of 13
I agree, that ABS "conveyor belt" is quite sturdy plastic, might actually be teflon itself. I even have it on my FF17 race bindings.  The FF18 and FF20 are nearly all metal and use traditional solid teflon plate AFDs, but those bindings are not made for recreational use and are basically sold "use at your own risk". 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Squawker View Post




Hell of a lot of guessing going on there! If the AMC 76s had Railflex, then your answer may be there - not as solid a platform as a CP13, or a real race plate, but more than solid enough for most mere mortals.

As for rubber???? Where? That ABS AFD is hard plastic and almost as slippery as a regular teflon AFD. It rolls to get your boot out of the binding with as little friction as possible. I've heard that Vibram soles don't play well with ABS, but with regular alpine lugs its a tried and tested platform.

The current SS Magnum has the SpeedPlate+ 13, which I've looked at instore. Its an "upgraded" CP13 and appears more solid than the older plate. More confidence inspiring to the eyeball at least.

 
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