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Which brushes to use when hot waxing - Page 2

post #31 of 40
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone ,I took my hotwaxed skis out to Lake Louise today ,and Where I had to do a little poling before ,I now glide right along ,kinda scary the difference a little wax makes. 
 I just laid my skis over the back of 2 chairs ,waxed them ,cooled them off ,then straddled them for stability and scraped the wax off.I used a kitchen knife to hold the brakes out of the way,I After scraping the wax off I brushed with my nylon/brass combination brush ,lots of little balls of wax appeared at first. After that I used my coarser nylon brush and I see what you mean by getting a polish on them.. This method works good enough for me ,I skied from 10:00 am to 4:pm with no break ( one quick bathroom stop). I love these skis ,and being out sking again.. It's been a long time..  
Neil 
post #32 of 40
 Awesome neil!  Now buy a vice, it's my absolute most important tool!
And rubber band-like brake retainers (I use the ones with the orange rings to help pull them on.)
post #33 of 40
Actually, the rubber bands that come on broccoli work great. 
post #34 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post

If you wax a ski good, it gets hard, so even a stiff stainless won't hardly scratch it. 

Not to my measurements, and yes I have both Shore A and Shore D durometers.
post #35 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post

Not to my measurements, and yes I have both Shore A and Shore D durometers.

 

Float your boat!  You are the man!   OK, complex, so it doesn't get harder!  It gets so lubricated that I can't scratch it with stiff stainless.
So a good soaking with super hard wax won't make it a little harder toward wear?  Pray tell me about that meter.  Can you tell a sintered from a sintruded, or extruded base with that toy?  What is is good for?   Can you tell when a base has been over heated with it?   What is the point here.  Oh yea, you corrected me about a ski getting harder.  Really I was wrong, it's the lubrication that must make it so hard to scratch with a stiff stainless brush.  Tell us more about that meter, and why I need to get one.  Thanks
post #36 of 40
You don't need brushes.  Just wax and ski.  You'll have excess wax on the skis and they'll stick like glue, but only for the first turn.  After that you'll glide fine.  We aren't racers worrying about the last 100th of a second.  Or, re-melt the wax on your skis and immediately wipe off the excess molten wax with a paper towel.  The wax down in the pores of the base material is the wax that counts.



Brass (hard) - wax - scrape - brass (gentle) - nylon  - fibertex pad.

Dont forget to use scraper end to remove excess wax from edges.
post #37 of 40
Still waiting for a response to the Durometers.   Please answer Comprex.   I'm always willing to learn something "new to me"  Thanks
post #38 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post

Float your boat!  You are the man!   OK, complex, so it doesn't get harder!  It gets so lubricated that I can't scratch it with stiff stainless.
 

That's actually a really good way to describe what I think might be going on: the majority of the bristles isn't exactly straight down and get deflected to the side given any sort of lube and a slight bit of pressure. 
 
So a good soaking with super hard wax won't make it a little harder toward wear? 
 

Not as far as I've been able to tell.   Of the 30 or so different bases I've used  them on, most of them are within a point or two of  each other at 68D , whether they were just done with CH4 or fresh from out of the base cleaner. 

Pray tell me about that meter.  Can you tell a sintered from a sintruded, or extruded base with that toy? 

Yes.   As it turns out the one pair of extruded bases I have handy is 60D, about 8 points lower than the others.


What is is good for? 

The cheap ones are fabulous for sorting various urethane skate wheels and RC car tires.   The Shore A meters are superb for that.  

You could probably use a Shore D to identify cheap vs. decent boot plastic at a ski swap.

  Can you tell when a base has been over heated with it?  

Haven't tried yet.     I will though.

 
  Tell us more about that meter,

It's really just a calibrated steel pin driven into the surface by a spring, with a dial on the other end to show how far the needle went in.

20096893723671.jpg

One waits until the needle stabilises for a reading.

It is _conceivably_possible_ that the needle actually penetrates deeper than a hypothetical

"hard"   surface wax layer.     If so, the fluctuations before the stable value is reached might be of interest.   

Did I see fluctuations higher than ~68D before stability?  Yes.   Sometimes far higher, into the 90D s range.

But then, my hand isn't really that precise at applying steadily increasing pressure without something to rest on.   Something with small penetration and high sensitivity might be of use for "wax hardness".   Like the type M ones with hydraulic pressure shown here:

http://www.instron.us/wa/product/Shore-Durometers.aspx


Still waiting for a response to the Durometers. 


Hope that helped.
 
post #39 of 40
Thanks Comprex.  I see you have lots of reasons to have a plastic hardness jig-a-mahotchie.   No really, thanks.   I don't think I'll run and get one now, but if you test it out to see if a overheated base is harder, then that would be interesting. 
I think if you brush out all the wax from the surface you are going to get a harder reading.  Thanks again.  I appreciate it.
post #40 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques View Post

I think if you brush out all the wax from the surface you are going to get a harder reading. 

If there is a harder surface layer, the needle is punching right through it,  like a tooth through hard chocolate into soft peppermint.
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