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Ironing on Wax?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
 So I finally decided to start waxing my own skis instead of taking them to the shop once per year for a waxing. I got some stuff from the shop at the recommendation of the master boot fitter who is a self proclaimed wax junkie who insists on waxing his skis after everyday he skis. He highlighted the ways I could cut costs (get brillo pads instead of the brand name polish pads, made my own plexiglass scraper with a laser engraver) He suggested a waxing iron, but said I could cut corners with a cheap travel iron, I just wouldn't get the same temperature consistency. For now I'm learning so I figured I'd stick with a cheap iron and possibly get a waxing iron next year (already spent another $250 on a pair of boots and waxing stuff last night) 
So I got a cheap Proctor-Silex iron from Walmart (1200 V). I got some Swix CH12 glidewax at his recommendation, its got 3 different temperature waxes in the box. It has a melting temperature of 135 C. I wanted to know A) what setting I should put the iron on B) rough idea how much wax should I apply?
post #2 of 5
Slowly up the temperature of the iron just until the wax melts.  If it starts smoking, back it off some.

To conserve wax, you can crayon it on all over the ski.  I actually do this and then just run a line of drops down once the length of the ski and then start ironing it in.  If at any point the wax starts smoking, the iron is too hot and that is something you are going to have to worry about.  Other than that, work the wax in until the ski starts to feel warm underneath, but don't worry about warm the whole length as there are many parts of the ski that are thicker due to things like bindings acting as heat sinks or fancy sculpting on the top of the ski which insulate your hand from feeling the heat.  Just make sure you are treating the whole ski consistently.  Wax from tip to tail, of course, moving the iron constantly, and not leaving it in one place very long.  You want to spread the wax evenly over the whole ski and you'll be able to see this. 
post #3 of 5
post #4 of 5
Just moved from the "drip technique" where you drip the wax along the length of the ski then iron it in to the "soften and crayon" technique where you heat the wax on the (proper temp set) iron, then when it gets really soft just before melting, crayon it all over the base.  I have found that this method is much more efficient and ends up in better more consistent coverage, better absorption, lower probiblility that you'll burn some of the wax while trying to re-melt the drip globules, and much less/easier scraping.
post #5 of 5
I went with a cheap iron at first, way back 30 years ago. I'm still using that same iron today I recommend not scraping the wax til you are at the mountain ready to ski.  The layer of wax protects the skis bases and edges in storage and transit.  Scrape it off in the parking lot when you get there.. Plus you'll look like a real hard core ace to the snow bunnies walking by
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