jeezuz: what a thread. what a load of whacked 'info'.
I will set you at least straight enough that any differences will be merely philosophical in nature.
SKIS GLIDE ON A FILM OF WATER...THAT'S WHY WELL-TRAVELED RUNS GET ICY.
The SKI BASE STRUCTURE matches the water content of the snow.
Coarse for wet /spring and finer for colder/drier snow.
Ski base plastics are porous and wax absorbs into the pore ' matrix'.
Correct wax temps allow for the right amount of snow crystal penetration into the wax.
COLD SNOW HAS SHARPER CRYSTALS AND LESS 'FREE' MOISTURE.
USE A HARDER/COLDER WAX
WARMER SNOW CRYSTALS ARE ROUNDER AND HAVE MORE FREE VAPOUR.
USE A SOFTER/WARMER WAX.
THE SNOW-BALL TEST IS AN INDICATOR. Air-temps will vary. Sun/shade, too.
Wax a COUPLE OF DEGREES COLDER THAN WHAT YOU THINK THE SNOW TEMP WILL BE... WARM/SOFT WAX ON COLD SNOW STICKS ...and sucks.
It is a bit of a thrill when you click in and you know the wax is ON.
I confess to blowing it and heading off for a $ ' hot wax ' at the mountain top-shop.
In emergencies - in those spring cold-snow squalls, those Toko rub on dispensers are day-savers... but their solvents will dry your base right out,
Warm snow/rain = reds/yellows +1-2C to -1or - 3C. 0 C = 32 F
Cooler = purple SWIX or mixes of red and blues -4 to -6C or so .
Cold snow = blues around -6 to -8C
Really cold snow = greens into -15C. Scrape when warm.
Arctic fronts = cold -20C wax is mostly plastic and cracks when it cools on the ski and must be scraped when warm.
In fact, do an intermediate scrape for all waxes when they are warm.
Finish scrape and Nylon brush when cold.
Brass-brush and wipe (paper towel will do ) to clean skis before waxing- especially after filing.
Wax your skis often- like every time the snow changes a wax temp range...especially from warmer to the colder temps.
If you are on cold abrasive snow look for a whitening of the ski base along the edge under foot = BURNING THE BASE... OR BASE BURN. This can happen in a day on cold snow and is why a red/soft base wax is used under the harder and less-base penetrating harder waxes.
Brush it out with the brass brush...
Hot wax RED to saturate the base, hot scrape, nylon brush and then re-wax for skiing temps.
In the vid the guy seems to finish with fiberlene or mech towel...
This is not a finish step it is a cleaning step, ...perhaps in the dirty spring or changing to colder waxes.
Brush it out with the brass brush first...then drag the fiber cloth under the iron once or twice so the melted wax is drawn off the ski - and with it the dirt in the base pores.
WAX IRONS= ANY IRON.
Real Toko or Swix are over $100 and worth it because they have great LOW temperature control.
DON'T SMOKE YOUR WAX. Just enough heat to melt it.
Lay down two lines along both edges about a match-stick in diameter, about an inch inside the edge. This keeps the iron off the base. Daub wax onto the iron to test temp and insulate the base from the metal- also for thin patches.
Keep the iron moving, long strokes. If you really love your bases you can crayon before melting the match-sticks. The molten wax should trail about 6-8 inches behind the iron, Watch for molten wax farther away and reduce temps.
Don't clamp your skis as they will expand into reverse camber when warmed.
I used to scrape only cold skis but now I do a quick warm scrape and then wait till the base is cold for finish scrapes and brushes.
Sharpen ( metal) scrapers on a big bastard file laying on the bench - or I also like a 100 grit sanding belt cut in half on a flat board for sharpening plastic scrapers. I do like the vid's file-guide sharpening.
I use body-shop scotch pads instead of the expensive swix pads. One of my cooler discoveries is paint-store EDGING PADS. These guys have short 1/4 " bristles that really put a nice finish on a wax.
That's it for easy non-voodoo waxing. 10 minutes to out-gliding your buds.
Snow-boards always seem to have better glide because they only use one edge and that increased pressure melts more snow and hence - a better film of water to glide on.These dudes never wax.
Coarse stones 100-200 grit for de-burring and a quick rip with a file in a side-bevel guide, then finer diamond stones to polish 400-600 grit and ceramic if you are fanatical.
Stay away from files on the base-edge. Base bevel is the key to how a ski performs. If the snow is hard, a new clean edge will burr over in a day.
If you have to ask if an edge is sharp, then it is not really sharp.