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Move Your Mounting Point - Blizzard IQ System - with Photos - for Dummies

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
Last spring I got a pair of Blizzards. Now that I've got a few days on them, I wanted to experiment with moving the mounting point forward slightly. (This same move helped me on a previous pair of skis.) Cosmoliu pointed out that this was easy to do in this post. Today I finally got around to doing this, and it was easy. For those of you who are thinking about doing the same, I've appended some photos and tips.

DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a professional ski technician and do not make claims one way or another regarding any safety implications that following this recipe might have. Any modifications you make to your gear or its settings are purely your responsibility. If you have any questions whatsoever, you should have your favorite local shop do this for you.

First, note your boot sole length by looking for the embossed measurement, usually on the sidewall of the boot heel:

Sole Length Embossing

Next, remove the center screw from the mounting plate. Use care here, and make sure your screwdriver fits the screw well. You don't wan't to strip the head on these babies. Mine was in tight, and I had to really bear down and wear grippy gloves to get it to budge. Once the screw is out, slide the entire toe / plate / heel unit out. You will need to retract the brake to do this, or it will bind on the ski's sidewall as you slide the plate out.


If you look closely at the underside of the plate, you will see that the installer has set its length to match the length of your boot sole. (The micro-adjustments that compensate for "between" lengths are beyond the scope of this post and should not change this process in any case, I don't think.)

Under the toe piece:


Under the heel piece:


To move the binding 1cm forward (what I wanted to do), follow these steps:

1) On the toe piece, gently pry the central lighter gray "spine" that has the sole lengths marked on it straight up, taking care not to apply any leverage that might bend or torque it inappropriately. (It's probably strong only in the tensile direction.) Move it one notch in the "larger" direction. In my case, I moved it from 285 to 295.

2) On the heel piece, pry up the spine and move it one notch in the "smaller" direction. In my case, I moved it from 285 to 275. (Note: in my case, this was the farthest the heel piece could move, so it will not be easy for me to move the binding farther forward, even if I want to. Those of you with normal-sized feet will probably not have this issue.)

What you are doing here is simply moving the entire apparatus forward with relation to the ski. You should not need to touch any of the screws on the binding that adjust release tension, forward pressure, micro-adjustment of boot length, etc.

Slide the whole unit back in, again retracting the brake. Reinstall the central mounting screw firmly, but again taking care not to make any overzealous gorilla moves with either the head or the threads. (If this were a bike, I would be tempted to put loctite on this, but I will leave it to pros here to comment on whether that makes sense on a ski.)

When you are done, you should see that the boot is sitting farther forward on the ski:


All set. 

post #2 of 3
Hey Qcanoe,

Great photos. You might check around to see if you can get a Pozidriv bit. I knew nothing about the design until I saw a reference to Pozidriv elsewhere in this forum. The Pozidriv is designed not to "cam out" as the Phillips screw system was deliberately designed to do. Your problem may be in using a Phillips bit in the Pozidriv screw. There is a great description of it at Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidriv  Elsewhere I learned that the design of the Phillips screw was for WWII era manufacturing plants where gorilla line workers would strip out the threads on screws installed with power drivers, often ruining what they were working on. The Phillips driver is supposed to cam out before that would happen. Modern wrenches with adjustable torque have addressed this problem. On the other hand, posts elsewhere on Epic have cautioned against stripping out the threads in the ski's wood core, so care would need to be taken with the appropriate Pozidriv bit!
Edited by cosmoliu - 1/11/10 at 12:59pm
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
It's true I don't own a posidrive. I didn't have one in 1977 when I mounted my first pair of three pin Troll bindings on some hickory touring skis, and I still don't have one now. Not sure what's wrong with me. Maybe Santa will bring one next year. Anyway, I did not have any trouble with stripping the heads of the screws, but since they were in so tight I was conscious that I COULD, and that it would be bad (though not as bad as stripping the threads in the hole, as you point out) so I thought it was worth a reminder to others.
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