Originally Posted by Skitazz
Before you go the route of base grinding, try how far they are detuned.
First you have to understand the difference between detuning and detuning/dulling.
Detuning is done to take the burrs of your edges after sharpening, this is usually a single 45 degree pass with a rubber stone with low pressure.
Detunning/Dulling is done with the same rubber stone but more progresively on the tips and tails. I like my skis sharp approx 5cm from where they hit the snow, but that is on my volants, and it is different for other skies.
The right amount of detuned/dulled on tail and tip will make that you enter a turn with the flick of your boots.
Too much detuned/dulled and your tip and tails have no grip making it hard to enter turn and it feels like you are all over the place.
Not enough detuned/dulled and your tip will enter a turn unwanted, giving you the feel that they control you and they bite back.
Check where your ski is dull/sharp by using your finger nail and using the edge to take a sliver of the top of the nail.
Now how sharp is sharp, if you can shave with them they are sharp, mines where sharp enough to cut my leki carbon poles just above the teller neatly without me even feeling it...
A sharp edge will not feel sharp it will feel very smooth, your nail will tell you it is real sharp, if it feels sharp the edge usually has burrs.
How to detune/dull edges take a rubber stone and use pressure on 45 deg angle, overlap strokes lighter pressure towards where you want them sharp. Take that rubber stone with you the first day and check your edges at the end of the day for stone hits which create burr and drag. A diamond file will take care of those.
To check the angle of your ski edges....
take a filt marker pen and mark the edges
take an angle sharpener set at 87 deg with a pansar file
take a stroke without pressure and see if you removed the ink completely, yes it is 87 (-3) deg. Partly? Change the angle untill you know.
Bottom is a bit more difficult, you need a bigger file for it and the appropiate bevel guide. Do not mess around with a guide and use handshoes.
When you are checking also check how plane your base is, this is done by putting a new metal scraper on the base and shining light from the other side, if you see light in the center, your base is hollow, if you see it on the sides its bulging. it should be flat.
imho the amount of dulling/detuning and a base which is not flat makes a much more dramatic impression as 0,5 or -1 degree bevel and 90 degree or 87 degree edges, but they are absolutely noticeable, especially on hard pack!
Good luck, will be interesting to know what was wrong.