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Atomic Race ST factory bevel angels

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Dear All Bears

First of all I would like to thank you for an excellent forum, containing knowledge, humour an interesting reading "en mas".

Having recently bought a pair of 2010 Atomic Race ST SL's, which needs a touch-up, I haven't had any luck getting a reply from atomic. Hoping that someone in here can help me determining the factory bevel angels. Is it the Atomic Standard 1 degree base / 3 degree side bevel?

Cheers
Nicky

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post #2 of 8
Nicky welcome to Epic Forums. I have really enjoyed tuning my Atomic Sls (both SL12 PB and ST11 )with a Base Edge of .5 degrees and a Side Edge of 3 degrees. This might take a minor stonegrind to flatten and true the bases before setting the new base edge angle. You mentioned they needed a touch up anyway.Much better SL response with this setup. If you find it too aggressive increasing the base bevel to .7 or 1 degree will be easy. You cannot decrease it without a new stonegrind.
post #3 of 8
Factory bevel is 1/3 as you stated. Unless you are actually racing or depending on the type of snow you are skiing or any alignment issues you may have, a true 1 degree (no more) will serve you extremely well. If you encounter extremely icy conditions you can increase the side edge to a 4 degree and can return to a three degree if you so desire with no grind needed. but to decrese base edge bevel you must stonegrind. first.

As stated a .5 can be beneficial, but is an acquired taste and can be very aggressive for some folks. If your bases are relativelt flat and you like the way they ski, I would not stone grind your new ski.

By the way,  all touch up of edges should be done on the side edge only!!. I never touch my base edges *EVER* after the initial tuning .

Be sure to knock off the hanging burr after sharpening your side edges!
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thank you so much for the advice guys.
I tried and bought the Atomics recently at the Hintertux glaicier (Austria), where we had virtually every single condition possible from clean ice through hardpack, crud and 5 inches of fresh pow. I had no problems with edge hold on the ice, so I think I'll keep the base bevel as it is... for now

On a note, I was very surprised how the skies handled the varied conditions - i guess the fatter dimensions helps a bit here (127,5-72-110). Only thing they were not fond uf was the crud - thankfully there's different skies in the quiver to sort that out.

Cheers
Nicky
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

Factory bevel is 1/3 as you stated. Unless you are actually racing or depending on the type of snow you are skiing or any alignment issues you may have, a true 1 degree (no more) will serve you extremely well. If you encounter extremely icy conditions you can increase the side edge to a 4 degree and can return to a three degree if you so desire with no grind needed. but to decrese base edge bevel you must stonegrind. first.

As stated a .5 can be beneficial, but is an acquired taste and can be very aggressive for some folks. If your bases are relativelt flat and you like the way they ski, I would not stone grind your new ski.

By the way,  all touch up of edges should be done on the side edge only!!. I never touch my base edges *EVER* after the initial tuning .

Be sure to knock off the hanging burr after sharpening your side edges!

 

I don't mean to confuse things, BUT, I just bought a pair, ('10), of Atomic Nomad Blackeye Ti's. I've had Atomics before and always tuned to the 1° & 3° "Atomic standard".
This time I got curious and called Atomic USA and asked if it was still the same. They told me it is now 1° on the bottom and 2° - 2½°
on the side. Hmmmmmmm. When I asked which it was, 2 or 2½, they were a bit "muddy" it their reply. I'm not sure what to believe now!
post #6 of 8
No confusion, since the ST is a race ski and without question should have a 3 degree.

I would be extremely suspect of anyone who said the the side edge was, uh, 2-21/4. No one does a 2.25 side edge. Atomic has put a 3 on all of their skis for many years! So I am not sure who you talked to. But it is somewhat of a moot point anyway. It really does not matter what the factory tune is. (unless you are touching up your existing factory tune with a diamond file where you need to match the existing angle) Just put a 3 degree side edge on them and call it a day. Ya can't go wrong with a 3 degree. Better edge hold on hard snow, no detriment in soft snow and contrary to the wife tales it is just as durable as a 2 degree!
Edited by Atomicman - 12/18/09 at 9:23am
post #7 of 8
A-man;
I was told 2½, not 2¼.
Actually, I was skeptical and called twice, seperate days, different "customer service" folks. The second one told me the same, 2 - 2½° said they haven't put 3° since ~ 2004. (Just relating what they told me). 
Anyway, I was going to maintain the factory bevel until I had to go the grind route. How difficult is it for me to get to 3° with my home tuning tools. I have SVST bevel guides, stones, (diamond and AlO2), files, (mill and panzar). The ski has a cap construction, but do I have to remove sidewall anyway?
Also, from a search on the subject, I see that side edge bevel measuring devices don't really work well, so I can't measure the factory bevel accurately to see what I have to begin with. True?
Thanks!
post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by C.B. View Post

A-man;
I was told 2½, not 2¼.
Actually, I was skeptical and called twice, seperate days, different "customer service" folks. The second one told me the same, 2 - 2½° said they haven't put 3° since ~ 2004. (Just relating what they told me). 
Anyway, I was going to maintain the factory bevel until I had to go the grind route. How difficult is it for me to get to 3° with my home tuning tools. I have SVST bevel guides, stones, (diamond and AlO2), files, (mill and panzar). The ski has a cap construction, but do I have to remove sidewall anyway?
Also, from a search on the subject, I see that side edge bevel measuring devices don't really work well, so I can't measure the factory bevel accurately to see what I have to begin with. True?
Thanks!
Since no one makes a 2.5 or 2.25 side edge bevel guide you would not be able to duplicate that anyway. Seems ridiculous to split hahairs (.5 degrees on a side edge bevel anyway)

Now the good new!!1 You do not have to have your skis  ground to change the side edge bevel. It can be changed at will up and back anytime you want just by simply usisng the desired side edge bevel tool.

So, you can take your factory 2.5 and use a 3 degree side edge beveler (with a file & then diamond stones) and try a 3. if you don't like it (Which I huighly doubt, you can put it back to a 2 just be resetting just as you did the 3.

Stone grinding is only mandatory to decrease base edge bevel. You can always base bevel your base edge more but you cannot reduce base bevel without a stonegrind to flat first.
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