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Actual Iron Temperature

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I've tried a couple different ways to find the actual temperature of my waxing iron; various oven thermometers in various positions and the like.  Nothing seems to work.  Since I don't have a digital display, i would like to see how close I am.

Currently, since I'm only using universal wax, I have it set low (100) and it melts fine without smoking.

Is there a way to check without buying thermocouplers and special equipment?

Thanks,
Ken
post #2 of 17
You could try sticking it in a water bath in an well-insulated container and measuring the water temperature with a well-calibrated thermometer.  Just be careful you don't short out the electricity.

My iron has a fiducial reference mark between rayon and silk.  I wouldn't put it anywhere near water.
post #3 of 17
I build model airplanes and cover them with an iron on shrink wrap material.  Coverite makes a thermometer for them.



It is the round thing sitting on the bottom of the iron in the picture.  The temperature indicator sticks out from the edge.  I sometimes use mine to make sure my waxing iron is at the proper temperature.

They cost between $6 and $10.  You can get them at any model aircraft store.
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
"You could try sticking it in a water bath in an well-insulated container and measuring the water temperature with a well-calibrated thermometer.  Just be careful you don't short out the electricity."

This has doom written all over it!  I think it it clever.  I understand it and agree that if done correctly, will give you the required information.  My expected outcome includes me explaining to either the EMT or Fire Marshall -

"Well, I was trying to figure out the exact temperature of my iron so I could make sure I was using the correct setting for the different waxes..."
I'm sure the head lines in the local fish wrap would be just as entertaining - "Man Burns Down House While Trying To Iron Water."

Keep in mind, my wife bought me a T shirt that states "I void warranties."

T-Square - Thanks.  There's a place less than a mile away that sells them.  I'll spend the $10.

Ken
post #5 of 17
precision is always nice. if you have lots of time on your hands, i cannot think of a better way to spend it. are you waxing for some other sport?

just as a thought, there are a few really good techs out there that have learned to set the iron at a temperature that is hot enough to melt whatever wax that they are using, so that the wax will become liquid on the ski, yet not hot enough to smoke the wax. ( even if they had a thermometer or a super gucci digi iron, they would still set the iron the same way ) if it smokes it is too hot, if it does not melt the wax it is too cold.

they also use this highly scientific test, that lets them know they have the iron at the correct temp. it involves watching the wax behind the iron as they come down the ski. if the wax remains liquid 18 to 36 inches behind the iron ( without smoking ) as you pass down the ski, the iron temp is correct. they will adjust the speed of travel and the temp of the iron as needed to stay in the sweet spot.

no smoke, no damage. the eyes and nose both make great tools for waxing.

tongue in cheek as always

jim
post #6 of 17
I just use a cheap infra red thermometer. Point at base, press button, voila the temp! works well you can easily see the heating cycles (and how innacurate the temp scales on irons are)

Must admit the ironing water method sounds far more fun though. Cue Mythbusters.

Adam: "Well thats it our base is at 120C. Myth Confirmed. But you know here at mythbusters we like to really test these myths"

Jamie: "OK so lets undo the clamp with the help of our friends from the Bomb squad"

Adam: "Fire in the hole, Fire in the hole, fire in the hole"

FZZZZZZZZ Bang! (Building lights go out!)

Adam "Am I missing an eyebrow?"
post #7 of 17
Next Mythbusters episode

"Waxing Ski's using C4" !
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
starthaus,

I agree and have it as you described for the universal wax and red toko.  Now that I have the ever so cool roto brushes (thanks Terry), I may very well attempt toko blue !  The real issue is I don't want to get any hotter than 120C...ever .  My major concern is the skis.  Already lost a pair to delamination and several have stated heat is the probable suspect.  I have my three and daughters 2 pairs of skis and most are new.  This includes the Metron 11 B5's that are the warranty replacements for the Metron B5's that delam'd.  Yes I'm gun shy.

madmole,

The only thing better than watching that would be the folks from Time Warp doing an episode on someone like Bode going thru the gates.  Imagine watching that up close frame by frame!
post #9 of 17
Using my infrared thermometer, I can tell you that after 4 passes of the iron (120C setting)  waxing Dominator Zoom the ptex is around 80C and the top sheet around 60C max

Cant see that causing delamination
post #10 of 17
You won't melt toko blue sufficiently at 120C. It will simply hit the ski and solidify immediately. Ironing it in at that temp will only manage to smoosh the wax before it hardens again, not the melting and spreading of wax that is necessary for a good job.

If you are afraid of delaming skis, try working on some discard skis first. They are also nice for sharpening (pun intended) your tuning skills without overworking your regular skis.

Just as an aside, if using any flouros, be sure to use a chemical grade respirator available at a hardware store. Flouros are very good for speed, but very bad for lungs.
post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
"You won't melt toko blue sufficiently at 120C."  I do remember from last year going over 120 to work with the blue. 

Figures.  Is there an industry standard that says "ski bases aren't reach more than XXX C"?  Maybe I'll go madmoles route and monitor the base instead of the iron.

Flouros are too complicated for me.  As you can see, I'm having a hard enough time with the good ol' red, white and blue (toko red, universal and blue that is).
post #12 of 17
Folks hot box at up to 80C for a few hours, so I always assume thats a safe temp

Mind you I wonder about differential temps and the metal edges heating up fastest. A hot box means the temp is pretty even all the way through
post #13 of 17
I love the "Man burns Down House While Trying to Iron Water" headline.
Here's your thermometer:


 
Coverite Iron Thermometer Item #GPM-2410 : $8.95
ski snowboard waxing iron thermometer
Click Image To Enlarge
Have you ever wondered what temperature your wax iron is operating at? Here's a simple dial thermometer that can tell you. Simply hold the coiled bi-metal element against the base plate of your iron, then read the scale...it measures both in Fahrenheit and Celsius from 0 degrees to 500 degrees F (0 degrees to
Available at:
http://www.tognar.com/wax_tools_hot_irons_corks_brushes_ski_snowboard.html

....or other fine retailers.


Ya know, we could just call your insurance company...and then if they had any smarts, they'd send you this (while somehow charging you double for it):

Product ID: TK5547178
Price: $125.39


Way easier than a Cold to Hot to "As Seen on TV!" water bath.

Note that "the guy" who suggested the water bath is using the Dinosaur Iron!
Tognar at one time used to sell those and that's what they called them.
Maybe that's why he's "Ghost"?

Originally Posted by madmole View Post

Next Mythbusters episode

"Waxing Ski's using C4" !


I hear those prescription Nitroglycerin capsule work great as an iron in overlay...

post #14 of 17
Pshaw.....use yo tung wike I do.

Universals and low melt and grade, warm waxes are in the lower range 120C° while higher melt, higher grade waxes go up the scale. Here's Briko-Maplus' recommendations, which I think parallels Toko's Hardness Chart.

We recommend the following iron temperatures to melt Maplus ski or snowboard waxes:

-120°C (248°F): Universal;
-130°C (266°F): (Soft – Soft Graphite)Racing Base, (BP1-BP2-BP3) Hot;
-140°C (284°F): (BP1-BP2-BP3) Med;
-150°C (302°F): (BP1-BP2-BP3) Cold;
-160°C (320°F): (Hard – Hard Graphite)Racing Base, BP4.

If used improperly, the waxing iron can damage the ski or snowboard construction.
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post

 
 
 
:



Note that "the guy" who suggested the water bath is using the Dinosaur Iron!
Tognar at one time used to sell those and that's what they called them.
Maybe that's why he's "Ghost"?


I'll have you know, sir, that the iron depicted in my photograph above is not a "Dinosaur" iron, but a thoroughly modern and sophisticated scientific device, making full use of Georg Ohm's recent advances in the field of electric circuits!  .  Although, I will admit that the cloth insulating the copper wiring is a bit frayed.
post #16 of 17
You're right, it's an advance over this one, a Coleman "Instant lighting" gas iron. (I assume it's white gas) No need to worry about frayed wires here though.
Of course with every advance one looses something. This one needs no electricity, thus you could actually hot wax on the hill. Never mind those weenies with their rub on powders and liquids.
I'm sure the white gas makes a decent base cleaner too after skiing under grease dripping lifts at Mad River and Mt. Bachelor. Oh...scratch Mad River, I guess they put in a new single. Though this gas iron in green would make a good official MRG waxer.

It's debatable which would work better with the C4. With the right accesories, Mr. Ohm delivers the bigger bang.

post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post

I love the "Man burns Down House While Trying to Iron Water" headline.
Here's your thermometer:


 
Coverite Iron Thermometer Item #GPM-2410 : $8.95
ski snowboard waxing iron thermometer
Click Image To Enlarge
Have you ever wondered what temperature your wax iron is operating at? Here's a simple dial thermometer that can tell you. Simply hold the coiled bi-metal element against the base plate of your iron, then read the scale...it measures both in Fahrenheit and Celsius from 0 degrees to 500 degrees F (0 degrees to
Available at:
http://www.tognar.com/wax_tools_hot_irons_corks_brushes_ski_snowboard.html

....or other fine retailers.


Ya know, we could just call your insurance company...and then if they had any smarts, they'd send you this (while somehow charging you double for it):

Product ID: TK5547178
Price: $125.39


Way easier than a Cold to Hot to "As Seen on TV!" water bath.

Note that "the guy" who suggested the water bath is using the Dinosaur Iron!
Tognar at one time used to sell those and that's what they called them.
Maybe that's why he's "Ghost"?

Originally Posted by madmole View Post

Next Mythbusters episode

"Waxing Ski's using C4" !


I hear those prescription Nitroglycerin capsule work great as an iron in overlay...


That's the TOKO i use. Can't beat it for  A hundo and a quarter!


 
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