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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Wider ski edge and base bevels?
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Wider ski edge and base bevels?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
My new soft snow ski, Movement Goliath Sluff, has a waist of 99mm.  I'm planning on using them for only when there's new or soft snow.  If it hasn't snowed for a while or even for a couple of inches of fresh on firm snow I'll use my carving skis.  Considering this, what should I have my edge and base angles set at?  I'm used to 1 and 3 for my my carving skis and my old midfat skis?  Also, should I have the tips and tails detuned?
post #2 of 5

If you ask 20 people you will likely get 30 answers.  Here is my take, but take it with a grain of salt:
1) Carving skis should be flat or 0.5 degree base with up to a 3 degree side angle.  This is how  my short carvers are set up and my GS boards (0.5/3.0) follow the typical WC set-up. 
2) My fats have a 1 degree base bevel and 2 degree side bevel, and they are working OK in soft snow and have good bite on those light powder over crust days.

I don't ever detune racing skis and slightly detune my carvers, figuring my lateral balance must be out of whack if I catch an edge.  Many others will disagree with this.  I do detune my fat skis to the point they touch the snow, which is really not detuning when you think about it.  If you ski a lot of moguls detuning more certainly makes sense.  The chart on the following web page may be useful: http://tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html

I am like you, preferring carving skis on hardpack and fatter skis for everything else.  I still have a mid-fat, but don't use it too often.


Edited by quant2325 - 11/24/09 at 9:37pm
post #3 of 5
The softer the snow, the less it matters. Personally, a 1:2 works for me and I wouldn't detune until it became obvious it was needed after trying a greater base bevel first if that seemed needed for some reason.

Originally Posted by quant2325 View Post

If you ask 20 people you will likely get 30 answers.

(And 40 will be wrong. )
post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 
If I choose to go with a 3 or 2 degree side angle and do not detune the tips and tails on my wider skis how will I know whether I want less angle and/or to detune?
post #5 of 5
If you use your skis in soft snow only, you may never feel the need. As you ski on harder snow or ice how the tips and tails react will become noticeably different depending on how you ski. For instance, if your tips start banging as one ski engages or you have trouble initiating or exiting a turn. Another thought mentioned by a shop tech yesterday for twin tips is that from the contact point to the tip, you should round over or detune the edges to reduce scratching the top sheet of the other ski.

For detuning, it takes seconds and can be done after a run with a pocket stone. Ski them first and adjust a little at a time starting at the contact points working an inch or two at a time. BUT, if you wish to maximize effective edge carving length, adjusting the base bevel and keeping a sharp edge may be a better approach. With a greater base bevel you can ease in and out of a turn. The reason I prefer a 1:2 on softer snows is that when I do get on harder snows, the 2° is easier to feather to the edge than the 'grippier' 3° (for my Havocs, anyway)
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