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Climbing Skins for Volkl Gotama + Marker Duke

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on which skins work best with Volkl Gotama / Duke combination.  I will be using the skis for slack-country / side-country.  

Also, does anyone have any advice on how to accommodate the twin-tip issue when attaching climbing skins?

Thanks in advance for you input.

-H
post #2 of 11
 Climbingskinsdirect.com sells great skins for a great price.  Get the twin tip model in the correct width.  Should be about $120.
post #3 of 11
^^^^^^^^
I second this guys advice. Make sure you get the "Duke-specific" model tho.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
I'm not seeing the "Duke-Specific" model.

The Gotama is 105mm under-foot, so I'm chosing the 115mm "Twin-Tip Skin" to trim down.  However, I'm a little confused about the option for a "Narrow 40mm" or "Wide 70mm" tip ring width.  Any thoughts?
post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterh99 View Post

I'm not seeing the "Duke-Specific" model.

The Gotama is 105mm under-foot, so I'm chosing the 115mm "Twin-Tip Skin" to trim down.  However, I'm a little confused about the option for a "Narrow 40mm" or "Wide 70mm" tip ring width.  Any thoughts?
The "Narrow 40mm" is for really pointy skis so the ring isn't in the snow and the "Wide 70mm" is for wide skis so the ring might fall off, causing you to loose your skin. So go with the Wide

P.S. Wait for someone to confirm this because I'm not 100% sure on this (probably about 80% sure)
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Awesome, thanks guys.  Looking forward to the season.
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
 Just for reference for future viewers of this post -- TGR forum suggests sizing the skins by the tip width (if possible) or by the tail width at the very least (http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174352).

Thus, I have changed my order to the 130mm twin-tip skins as the Gotamas are 133mm in the tip.
post #8 of 11
With a larger skin expecially with "slackcountry" use it is a little slower travelling.  With full coverage ski traction is at an optimum, but so is drag.
Also with a wide +100mm skin if you can find one that doesn't have full adhesive coverage makes it a little easier to use.
http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skins/alpinist-climbing-skins

http://www.genuineguidegear.com/service/g3-learning-centre/skins
The G3 tip clip is really easy to use as well.
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterh99 View Post

I'm not seeing the "Duke-Specific" model.
 

I'm sorry - I was just being a jackass (bindings don't play much of a role in skin selection).

Seriously - I wouldn't get apair of 130mm skins for Gotamas. Most of your weight (and traction) is gonna be under the middle and tail of the ski while skiing, so full coverage at the tip doesn't do much. This will be especially true if you've got this years Gotama with the tip and tail rocker. I'd save a few bucks and go with a 115mm skin. Also remember that you're gonna want the edges showing after trimming. You will have plenty of traction with 115s.
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterh99 View Post

 Just for reference for future viewers of this post -- TGR forum suggests sizing the skins by the tip width (if possible) or by the tail width at the very least (http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174352).

Thus, I have changed my order to the 130mm twin-tip skins as the Gotamas are 133mm in the tip.

You done good.  For my opinion, read #14 in that thread.  
post #11 of 11
 I was lazy or I would have looked it up and told you that 130mm is the correct width for the Gotoma.  That's what I got.  I want full coverage.  In my experience with non full coverage skins, its not worth the couple of bucks you save.  I just trimmed my 146mm skins to fit my Sumo's.  I learned a few things.  I wouldn't use the template they provide.  I would center the ski, with the end clips on it, on the uncut skin with the paper still on it.  Make sure the skin plush is facing in the proper direction.  Mark where the fold will be with a sharpie on the tip and tail.  Draw this line all the way across the paper.  Make reasonably sure that it is perpendicular to the center line of the skin.  Draw 2 lines perpendicular to the fold line so that you have a column centered up the skin that is just less than 70mm wide.  Double check that these lines look reasonable with the ski.  Cut out the two rectangular pieces from the tail of the skin.  Peel the paper back a bit and slide the tail ring on.  Make sure it is facing the right way.  Fold the 70mm strip back onto the main body of the skin.  Use the unglued center as a guide to keep this lined up.  Fold the paper back over the skin up to the tail clip and tear off the excess.  Attach the tail clip to the ski and double check where the fold line should be for the tip.  Correct this if needed.  Cut out the rectangles and repeat process used for tail.  Triple check skin length.  Correct if necessary.  Remove paper from skin and attach to ski as described in directions....  Offset from center about 1/8".  Look carefully at this.  You want to get this right the first time.  There should be some over hang on the non-cut side and the plush grain should be parallel to the center line of the ski.  Most skis are wider at the tips than the tails.  You should have less over hang at the tip than the tail.  Look one more time and make sure the plush is facing the right way.  Take the cutting tool provided and trim the cut side.  Try to do this smoothly and in one pass.  The cutting tool works much nicer than a razor knife.  Remove the skin and reattach so that the edge that you just trimmed is inside the edge it was matched to by a strong  and consistent 1/4".  Take your time.  When its right trim the other side.  Remove skin and attach in center of ski.  You should have a perfectly cut skin with the edges exposed from tip to tail.  Take a pair of scissors and trim the 90 degree tip and tail cuts so that they are rounded and symmetrical.  I will take photos when I do the goat skins later this season.  I hope this helps.
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