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1st Attempt at Replacing an Edge

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Alright, well, due to our low snow conditions, and well, my lack of desire to get back on the trail, I get to try my first attempt at replacing a crushed edge. Bob Peters, you should enjoy this, you were there, and noticed that; "I really don't care about my skis." Well part of that is right, I don't really care about THAT pair of skis, they are tools, tools to get a job done (read: me down the hill on fun terrain, snow or not). Problem is, if I don't fix these, they leave a huge hole in my quiver.

So I bought some new tools! GOD I LOVE BUYING NEW TOOLS!!! Edge repair tools, a new edge to stick in there, edge screws, a p-tex iron, some of that p-tex that will bond with metal, and a bunch of other suff. No holds barred kind of stuff. I'm not kidding around here, I'm gonna fix this friggin' thing, then probably retire the skis after this season (unless a this really works).

So, I know I need to cut some base away from the area, cut 45 degree angles to help hold the new edge in place, glue the thing in, put a little steel wool in the epoxy to help anchor the edge in place, and put some of that special p-tex in there over it. So, what I am also wondering is it possible to very technically tack weld the new edge to the old ones? If this is done quickly and percisely, how much damage can this do to the rest of the ski? Keep in mind that this ski is pretty hacked as it is. Any other tips of the trade for the garage repairman?

(No, its not going into the shop, I'm bullheaded, I can generally do a lot of this stuff myself, and well, could be a learning experience) [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
post #2 of 10
If you have any luck, let me know. The edges on my G41s are now so destroyed underfoot that they should be replaced. i.e. they are missing all p-tex for about half an inch from the edge on in for the entire length of my boot sole, and I can't do a base weld or p-tex them anymore because the edges underfoot are so ground down that there's no lip for the p-tex to sit in. When you would try to scrape the p-tex it all comes back off because the edge is now virtually level with the base under the p-tex. I do give Volkl credit for having solid enough construction that the edges haven't pulled out despite having virtually nothing holding them in for 12 inch sections.

It would be an interesting experiment to see if I could actually fix them and bring them back above the level of rock skis. They're certainly not worth spending money at a shop in an attempt to have them repaired.

Good luck!
post #3 of 10
tack-welding, AS? negative, I believe. IMHO that's a "halfway house" cure anyway. the edge integrity already is destroyed. do you think a tack weld would restore it? I don't.

I would just jigsaw the destroyed edge, match it with the new edge, and epoxy into place just as you have described.

it's not going to feel like a new ski with all that surgery underfoot, but it's going to feel a WHOLE lot better than the blown out edge.

heat from tack welding likely could disrupt sidewall/topskin/core stability. skis aren't made for that kind of focused heat. one has to be careful with hot air used in a base welding tool, and that's nowhere near as hot as a weld.

just be careful with the edge fit (good saw work and a Dremel tool can do wonders) and you should be in good shape. follow the epoxy directions VERY carefully. the strength of an epoxy bond depends directly on the proper mixing and application.

good luck playing surgeon. remember, this is more like orthopaedics and less like neurosurgery!

post #4 of 10
Here is a link to a website that goes into pretty good detail about edge replacement.


I've done it three times myself, and the only advice I can give you is to take your time. A dremel tool will help tremendously in the precision of this type of work, plus it saves a lot of time.

I wouldn't recommend tack-welding the new edge section to the existing edge section. I've never done it, but based on my past welding experience I envision either melting the edge, base, and/or sidewall in the process. If you do decide to try a tack-weld, please let us know what the end results were.

Have fun, it really is a good feeling to take a totally tweaked ski and make it usable again.

post #5 of 10
Actually, you could give a permamnat repair if you found someone with a TIG welder and (absolutely VITAL) the ability to use it with confidence and fix it right the first time, I know this is the case as I myself have done some very careful repairs with out burning surrounding flamable material with a TIG torch and some Stainless filler but nothing on a ski base. I speculate that someone standing by with a squirt bottle filled with water could constantly spray the ski base while the edge is being welded on and you would have an excellent repair.

For someone that doesnt know anything about welding, you hold a TIG torch in one hand and vary the amount of heat by pushing or releasing a foot pedal that varies the amperage that passes through the torch (this is an electrical process), while at the same time, adding a filler metal by holding a rod of suitable metal in the other hand and dipping it into the molten metal that is being worked upon. It is an extremely slow, painstaking, and exact process because it allows complete control over all aspects of the work on an extremely fine and accurate scale so it is ideal for this type of repair.

On a side note, the heat will make the steel edges super hard and they will resist all attempts to sharpen so go buy a new file instead of using your favorite one before sharpening them because they WILL wear out a file.
post #6 of 10
Don't high end shops and race rooms usually do this kind of work on their race skis? On super g and downhill skis it seems that this kind of work would be vital, due to the fact that they are used for so long by such strong athletes, in pretty harsh conditions. If it is possible i would take your skis to a shop or race room and have them do it. Chances are that they have someone on hand that is very experienced at this type of work and will know exactly how to do it. Good luck with your repair, i hope that it goes well for you. The idea of replacing edges has always fascinated me, but i dont think that i am brave enough to attempt it myself... at least not at this point in time.
post #7 of 10
Plenty of shops could do the repair (for a large fee considering how time consuming the process is), but that wouldn't be any fun! I think if we were talking about a ski that is in otherwise good/new condition taking it to a shop would be a wise decision unless you really know what you're doing. But on something that's seen better days - it's a great chance to learn to do it yourself.
post #8 of 10
How much would a shop charge to do the work and how durable would it be after it was done? If you have a pair of skis that have been tuned to death but still have a lot of life it may be a way to keep the ski for a little bit longer. I'm a gear slut and hate getting rid of skis because of lack of edge - especially if they are a ski that i like to ski on a lot. So providing the cost is relatively low, that might be something fun to try in order to keep a solid sharp pair of rock skis around.
post #9 of 10
My husband has had blown edges repaired at a few different shops in the past. I think costs were something like $60. It's certainly never like new again and the repaired areas are definitely more likely to fall apart again. (Particularly in the case of wood core skis that got exposed to the elements and the wood got wet. This leads to bad things...)
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Alight, the edge repair is complete, and for those of you who didn't see the results on Friday at Alta, heres the details:

I cut the p-tex out, which is pretty easy. Then I used a cutting tool on a Dremel and cut 45 degree reverse cuts in the existing edge, thus removing the damaged section, about 6 inches. Then took a sanding/cutting bit and removed some of the wrap around the core, as the new edge was thicker than the old. Put new edge in, screwed it in place. Ground head off of the screws. Took it to friends and welded the ends together (TIG). Ok, here is the problem...

It had nothing to do with the heat on the bases, core, or top sheet. For obvious reasons, the old edge got tempered, and therefore brittle. More on that later.

Onced edge was in place, I ground the extra metal down, flexed the ski to make sure welds would hold under stress, and fixed where necessary. Then I filled in the entire area with lone cure epoxy. 24 plus epoxy is more flexible than the quick stuff. Ground away the epoxy and used a p-tex candle to drip in some base material so it would hold wax.

The repair looked great!

The problem was that the repair was directly under my foot, on the outside edge. This is a dangerious area for a repair.

Well, upon running all over Alta with Harpo, Bob Peters and the rest of the gang on Friday, I got about a half day out of the repair before the edge ripped out again. However, I do feel that if the repair would have been on ANY OTHER PART of the ski, the repair would have held. I did also drop a few small cliffs with the ski adding to the quick retirement of the edge. The top weld broke and let something, probably a rock catch the repaired edge and pulled it and some of the origional edge out.

I do believe that if I had not skied the ski in rough conditions that the repair would have held. Who knows, an origional edge could have ripped out of the ski that day.

Doing it again, I would only weld the top edge (closest to the shovel) of the ski, put in a few screws faily loose, and epoxy. This will allow the edge to flex more in the ski. And keep the edge from breaking loose hopefully.

For the next repair on the ski (no, I'm not done yet) I am just planning on ripping most of the damaged section out, bending the edge towards the center of the ski, sand it off, and fill the entire area full of epoxy. This I believe will do fine for most conditions, as I don't need an outside edge on this ski at this time. I could be worse, it could be better.

On a side note, I did a similar repair on a friends ski at the same time and it is holding just fine.
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