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Head C140 (2005) Problem

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Some time ago I got new skis, Head C140s, specifically this style:

http://winter-sport-deals-llc.amazonwebstore.com/Head-170cm-skis-C140-skis-lightning/M/B001C3E0YG.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle

Problem now is, the skis came with Railflex I bases attached, and I never got to buying new bindings for it, because I got other skis that are even better, currently I'm on Salomon X wing 10's from 09, but these C140s are still brand new in plastic, and I actually have a use for them now. Only thing is, since Railflex I is discontinued and the RF2 bindings are incompatible, I have no place to find original RF1 bindings.

My two questions are whether or not I will be able to find RF1 bindings anywhere, and whether the RF1 base is removable or not. If it is I'd switch them for RF2 bases, because I have a pair of RF2 bindings lying around that I used when I was on C110s, and they are still near perfect (Tyrolia SL10s) I'd rather the former than buying, let alone finding, RF1 bindings.

All help is appreciated!

Nick.
Edited by NickM - 11/3/09 at 4:21pm
post #2 of 9
Get these Railflex I HD14s for $99!

http://www.levelninesports.com/tyrolia-2004-railflex-silver-ski-bindings-p-2401.html

Alternatively, yes you should be able to unscrew the Railflex I bases. No idea if the screw holes will match the RF II bases, or if they will conflict, but its definitely doable.

And the HD14s are much better bindings that SL10s.My experience with SL10s is that the heels have zero elasticity and toss you out at the slightest bump or wobble, often inconveniently.
Edited by Squawker - 11/3/09 at 10:04pm
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hi Squawker,

My SL10s have done me very well for almost 4 years so I doubt i'll give them up. Your problem might be a low DIN. Replacing the base is the cheapest way to go right now, so I'll look into that primarily. If the bases will be easy to replace and there will be no adverse effects of having vacant screw holes in the ski, I'll likely get a $15 pair of Railflex 2 bases.

Thanks,

Nick
post #4 of 9
It's the exact same hole pattern for RF1 and RF2 base plates.
post #5 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM View Post

Hi Squawker,

My SL10s have done me very well for almost 4 years so I doubt i'll give them up. Your problem might be a low DIN. Replacing the base is the cheapest way to go right now, so I'll look into that primarily. If the bases will be easy to replace and there will be no adverse effects of having vacant screw holes in the ski, I'll likely get a $15 pair of Railflex 2 bases.

Thanks,

Nick

The general rule of thumb is that you can drill a ski three times without structural consequences, so that shouldn't be an issue. A ski shop will plug the holes for you when mounting the new bases. Alternatively fill them with epoxy - just so water doesn't get into the core.

However..... I just spent some time looking over the Tyrolia tech manual 05/06 and it states that the same jig can be used for Railflex II, Railflex and Railflex Lite. As there were only two sets of screw holes on that jig - silver for Railflex and black for Railflex Lite it seems fairly safe to assume that the hole pattern for Railflex I and Railflex II is the same. Should be easy to check once you have the skis and RF II bases in front of you. In which case - unscrew the existing plates carefully, add a spot of glue to each hole and screw down the RF II bases. Note that the bases don't sit flush on the skis until you snap loose the plastic bushings on the foremost and rearmost screw pairs. Its pretty obvious when you see it - just use a bit of force (*)

I may have exagerrated a bit about the SL10s, but before I sold mine I had a number of incidents where I honestly believe the heel shouldn't have let go and where, in my experience, a Tyrolia-style diagonal heel at the same DIN would have absorbed the shock elastically. Your mileage may vary.

(*) or get the shop to operate the screwdriver for you

(**) cheers Whiteroom for confirming what I could only assume from the literature
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
If the jig will be relatively the same I won't have much problem with replacement. I'll likely take them over to Action Sports and see what they will do. I'm close to getting a new pair of RF2 bases, but Action Sports (a local ski shop) should likely give me a complimentary pair. They're literally trying to get rid of them because apparently there should be an RF2 binding-compatible RF3 base coming out next year. At least that's what they told me. I'm not going to bother confirming that.

If the bases will match up well enough, this will definitely be my choice. If you can find me a high-res photo of the top of the RF2 base where you can see the screws, I'd be able to directly compare.

Thanks,

Nick
post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM View Post

If the jig will be relatively the same I won't have much problem with replacement.
 

No jig.     No drilling.   Use the same holes.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
I don't know if they will be exactly the same yet, so IF they are relatively if not exactly the same, there will be little problem with replacement. However there might be necessary drilling. I haven't found the screw setup for RF1 compared to RF2 yet.

AND: Are these RF1 bindings? Seems so: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tyrolia-SL10-Rail-Power-Brake-Ski-Bindings-Never-Used_W0QQitemZ260500159932QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca704fdbc
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickM View Post

I don't know if they will be exactly the same yet, so IF they are relatively if not exactly the same, there will be little problem with replacement. However there might be necessary drilling. I haven't found the screw setup for RF1 compared to RF2 yet.

AND: Are these RF1 bindings? Seems so: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tyrolia-SL10-Rail-Power-Brake-Ski-Bindings-Never-Used_W0QQitemZ260500159932QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca704fdbc

1. Listen to Whiteroom and Comprex (and me and the tech manual). Same jig - the screw hole patterns are IDENTICAL.

2. Yes, they look like RF1 bindings
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