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How much tip lead in bad snow?

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
OK, time to come clean … I’ve been lurking here off and on for a good while, and have seen the strong recommendation not to ski with too much tip lead. Normally, this is exactly what I do. When the snow conditions are good, my tip lead is probably only a few inches, and in the pictures of myself that I’ve seen, I actually look like I know what I’m doing on skis.

Well, a couple of days ago, somebody posted some pictures on Mt. Jacinto in California, and one of them showed a guy skiing along with a huge amount of tip lead. It was so large that someone else thought he was a telemarker.

As soon as I saw the picture, I recognized that’s exactly what I do as soon as the snow gets lousy and I feel myself getting thrown forward and back. If the snow is at all questionable, I even use a lot of tip lead in straight downhill runs when not turning. A few years ago, I was sailing along on fast normal snow, hit a patch of new snow from a gun, went right over the handlebars, my face landed on my tips and I got cut up pretty bad. This really spooked me, so I know part of my problem is probably in my head, but my question is how do you pros handle the tip lead issue in these sort of conditions? I’ve never once had another incident like this since I started to use more tip lead in bad snow, but I know it looks pretty dumb to be skiing that way.

In case it changes your suggestions, I’ve been skiing a good while and the last few times I’ve taken a lesson, instructors tell me that I’m a “high 7” (whatever exactly that means). I’ve never taken a lesson on a bad snow day, so no instructor has ever given me any tips on this problem. Also, after the incident where I hit my face, I make sure I’ve got plenty of wax on my skis, and that does help the problem a bit, but what I’m talking about is real heavy cut up stuff, not just smooth snow with patches of different grabbiness.

By the way, let me tell you this is a great internet forum and I’ve learned a lot just being a fly on the wall and listening to the discussions. Thanks everybody.

[ August 17, 2002, 10:31 AM: Message edited by: Didelis_Skier ]
post #2 of 16
Well Didelis welcome to the forum. I am not sure why tip lead is the question in “bad” snow. Compared to the office by the way there is no bad snow! Any way let me take you through how I work with students when skiing varied snow conditions.

Lets suppose we had a nice snowfall and after a while as usual the snow gets cut up. Now we have what can be very difficult conditions. If you watch most skiers in this cut they look like they are riding a bucking bronco. We ski along and the snow is good then we hit the cut then good snow etc. As we approach the “smooth” (the cut up area) we need to realize as our skis move into this smooth cut area they will gain momentum (no resistance) and want to speed out in front of us. We need to pull both our skis back under us slightly so we stay reasonably centered over the skis. Then as we start moving into the good deeper snow this snow will act as a break due to resistance forcing our skis behind us. Now we need to “push” our skis slightly forward as we enter this snow resisting the force the deeper snow will have to move our skis behind us. Hence we again help ourselves to stay reasonably centered over our skis. When skiing cut up crud you will need to work on using a slight push pull of your feet to keep centered as you move from cut to snow etc. and this will help you to avoid the forward tumble. As you gain the “feel” the push pull will become a natural adjustment in your skiing.

Not lets review your tumble. [img]redface.gif[/img] Since our area has about 190 snow guns I know the problem very well. The snow maker blew “green” (wet) snow and the minute you skied into the snow your skis slowed down and your body kept going. A little push forward with both feet to overcome the resistance may have kept you centered over your skis and hopefully you would have avoided impact. You kissed your tips because your skis were behind you. Then again not skiing on the green would have been much better.

When it comes to tip lead there are very differing opinions. My opinion is less is better most of the time. There are always exceptions such as steeps, great recoveries, and what you leave the instructor after a good lesson. I don’t believe I will go much farther into tip lead except to say less counter is also a more modern and efficient method of skiing and racing and with less counter we have what? Less tip lead!

Have a great day!
post #3 of 16
Tip lead.

Think about it. If you put one foot ahead of the other, what happens? Your balance shifts back.

I come from a school that preaches pulling the inside foot back, when making turns. While skiing, your feet should always be firmly under your hips.

One of the most common traits of skiers that are back, is that one foot is always in front of the other.

Keep your feet under your hips. You'll avoid injury and you'll be in better balance.

post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thank you very much for your quick response, John.

To answer your first question, the reason that I'm asking about tip lead in bad snow is that I can just about completely eliminate the "bucking bronco" effect if I use a lot of tip lead in this sort of snow.

I am not talking about the tip lead that develops during a turn due to too much reverse shoulder. Im talking about a foot or so of tip lead that I intentionally introduce on schusses, fast traverses and just about everywhere where the snow is really throwing me back and forth quickly and by a large amount.

I understood the technique you were talking about in your second paragraph about pushing the skis out in front of you when you come to a patch of slow snow, and visa versa. Since my accident, I've been talking to people about this issue and other people have suggested this as well. The problem is that for me, that only works when I'm dealing with pretty big obvious patchs of slow or fast snow that I can see ahead of time - maybe patches that take a second or more to cross. That's why I said in my post, "What I’m talking about is real heavy cut up stuff, not just smooth snow with patches of different grabbiness.".

With my feet spread out in a front-back direction, I don't need to move my legs at all as the skis suddenly slow down and then a fraction of a second later speed up. All that happens is that it transfers a bit of weight from my rear foot to my front foot and visa versa, and for me at least, this can happen almost instantly, certainly much faster than actually pushing both feet ahead and back. Its particularly good when the lighting is bad and I can't see what's coming up. It just feels much more secure, just like when you are not on skis, you always spread your legs apart for balance on rocking boats and things like that.

There is one more thing that Ive seen - If I'm going really slow or really fast, I don't need to do this as much. When I'm going slow, the front-back pitching is much less, and when I'm going really fast in bad snow like this, I just sort of blast through it. Its only at medium speeds that the front back balance thing becomes a problem for me.

By the way, what did you mean when you said, "there are always exceptions such as steeps"? Whats going on there?

Also, I liked your comments on leaving tips for instructors and that there is no such thing as bad snow - ha - I agree.

Thanks again.
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thank you also, SCSA - I just saw your message.

You are probably right that people's balance generally shifts to the rear when they use too much tip lead, but I know that at least in my case, because I'm doing it intentionally, I try really hard to put equal weight on my front and back skis when I'm schussing or traversing in bad snow just so I'm ready for both forward and backwards balance problems. When I'm doing this, both of my shins are pressing into my boot tongues by about the same amount, but this means that my rear knee is always much less bent than my front knee.

I also try to keep this more or less equal weighting during turns, and right through the point in every turn when you've got to switch which ski is leading. This more equal weighting is something that I've only learned in the last couple of seasons, and it seems to work very well with the big tip lead that I use in bad snow. I used to put all my weight on my outside ski, especially on hard snow.

Fortunately, I only need to use the big tip lead idea when the snow is really miserable, so I don't have to look dorky more than necessary - ha. What I'm confused about is that this thing really seems to work for me but apparently its bad in some way.

What do you think?
post #6 of 16

Welcome to EPic ski.

Excessive tip lead does enhance fore-aft stability, that is why the free heal guys use it. As a crutch in Alpine gear it does, however, limit one's ability to control the lateral pressure between the skis as well as interefering with steering and the ability to precisely edge the skis.

Without seeing you ski it is difficult to determine the exact cause. (But here is my $0.02, hope that you don't mind) I would suggest that you review the original back seat thread http://www.epicski.com/cgi-bin/ultim...c;f=4;t=001255 started by Pierre and look for Bob B's stick figure diagram. Can you deermine which of these you are? If boots don't seem to be the cause the next to you're in cruddy or variable snow conditions make some straight runs or traverse (if it is really steep) and practice John's shuffling exercises. After doing it an normal speed while keeping your feet underneath you try slowing it down.

Do you also have trouble staying centered in bumps? If so try traversing the bumps and pretending your in a tunnel, don't hit the top with your head. As you try to keep your feet under you note that they are moving fore and aft as well as up and down as you slow on the face of the bump and accelerate down the backside.

[ August 18, 2002, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: Tom Burch ]
post #7 of 16
Try wider skis.
post #8 of 16
Didelis -
As a free heeler myself I can tell you free heel is not the reason for a drastic amount of tip lead. Telemarking turns are a type/style of turn. However secure the heel and free heel tip lead changes. I use to ski with a fellow that used Marker lockdown heels so he could change from to free heel depending on conditions.

I suspect you find a lot of tip lead works in crud snow because you have preset the push pull effect artificially on each ski. Why do I say artificial, because in alpine skiing you really want to have your balance point over both of your feet. By setting up a lot of tip lead you have pre compensated for the snows effect on moving your skis forward/back. Remember modern day skiing for efficiency is using both skis in a turn but I will get to that later.

Try this free heelers included . Stand up, put both of your feet side by side and a comfortable width apart (say hip width), look down and find your forward aft balance point. Forward/aft I believe you find is directly underneath you and in fact over your feetfore/aft. Now make a sideways (lateral) move. Your balance point is over your foot laterally and still over your feet fore/aft. (I truly believe dynamic balance occurs in 360 degrees.) Now for demonstration purposes create and unusual amount of tip lead (move one or both feet to create the tip lead a split is ideal), more than you would use normally. Now where is your balance point? It is still directly below the trunk of your body but look where your skis are. At best you have balance over one foot but definitely not two and laterally the same.

So now we have found our balance points depending on tip lead and with tip lead our balance point looks a little questionable. You say a lot of tip lead works for you? Great! However I also sense you may think something is not so true about how you are skiing so lets take this another step further and see why less is more. We are going back to the same static demonstration and make the demo dynamic. This time make sure you stand on a smooth surface, stand up, take a comfortable width stance with feet side by side putting the balance point over both feet/skis, and now turn both feet at the SAME time to the right/left. You should stay pretty much balanced fore and aft and find mechanically it is pretty easy to turn your feet at the same time. Now move one or both feet forward/aft to create a DRASTIC tip lead. Now turn both feet and see how it feels. Does the balance seem less/more in either one? Hold on to a desk and try both demos with your eyes closed and feel the difference. Can you turn your feet TOGETHER easier with or without tip lead? Is the balance different from one to the other? Do skiers ski with drastic tip lead? Some really do but we must remember as we strive to improve drastic may be a lot less than we think it is. Subtleties make the difference from an intermediate to and advanced skier. Now we know what effect tip lead can have on dynamic balance and our ability to turn/guide/steer our skis. remember skiing is going downhill and turning your feet!

So where is this long dissertation taking us? I apologies for the length but there doesn’t seem a short path to the end. Keeping our feet underneath us for fore/aft/lateral balance is very important. To do this more efficiently we need to think about turning with BOTH feet, initiation of the turn with the inside ski, and then turning guiding both feet through the turn. This means we are guiding the outside ski around the turn as well as turning the inside ski through the turn. (Today we don’t want to pull back the inside ski as a matter of course because it changes our focus of staying over both skis and moves us off the two skis turn together goal. There is more but it would only make this longer yet.) Both skis have should have forward guiding pressure around the circle of the nice round turn. Hence if done correctly in your situation you will find three things occur. You will have reduced tip lead, reduced counter, and you will have continuous forward “pressure” on the feet throughout the turn and the forward “pressure” around the turn can be “relaxed” when you see that cut or increased when you see “green” snow! This relaxing just before the cut will allow your skis to move back underneath you slightly and then continue around the turn. The little extra forward guiding around the turn will when you see the "green" will resist the pressure of new wet snow. Remember these are subtleties in our skiing.

Greater tip lead in steeps allows for the skier to build a stronger platform and initiate the downhill ski into the turn from the uphill ski platform easier. Remember in steeps these turns are linked recoveries usually from ski to ski!

Have a GREAT day!

[ August 18, 2002, 08:42 AM: Message edited by: John Cole ]
post #9 of 16

You see, I follow a very strict system, PMTS (aka, the cult).

The cult teaches to pull your inside ski back, at all times. Doing so gives you balance and makes skiing in funky conditions "easier" (i quote easier because I don't want you or anyone else to think skiing is easy).

The reason why people have so much trouble once they get off of groomers (off-piste) is all due to their technique.

Like, ever see skiers have trouble in powder chop? Of course you have.

Skiers have trouble in powder chop, because they've been taught tip lead and a wider stance. None of that works in powder chop. The reason why is that with a wide stance, the clumps of snow get in between your skis and cause them to separate. Your feet wobble fer cryin out loud!

Then, with your feet apart, you have to control two skis - two, separate skis. A lot of folks here preach the wider stance. I don't and I think it's terrible, that they teach what they do.

If you use a narrow stance, along with pulling your inside foot back (to keep it under your hips), powder, powder chop, crud, all become much easier to ski.

Because, well for one, you're solving the deflection problem. With your feet together (narrow stance), the clumps of snow can't get in between your legs and cause your skis to wobble.

I think you're using technique that's increasing your chances of injury and is causing you to have trouble. What I would do if I was you is go back to drawing board. Start skiing with a narrow stance and start following a system. Once you do, I think you'll enjoy the sport a whole lot more.


So the answer to your question, "How much tip lead in bad snow", is, none.

I started to digress into the stance issue, which has been discussed here ad nauseam.

Instructors teach a wide stance, because it gives skiers a wider platfrom to work off of - they think it gives them better balance. I disagree. I feel more in balance when my feet are closer together, not further apart. The other reason why the wide stance is still taught is for carving. Yes, to carve two tracks, your feet must be a little further apart.

But my answer here is that why teach skiers a technique that's so limited, that is only effective when carving? Why not teach skiers technique that is effective for carving, groomers, and off-piste?

Well, here's where the business side of skiing takes over. It is a fact, that most skiers, only have aspirations to ski groomers. They don't want to ski bumps and they don't want to ski off-piste. So in that regard, I'll agree with traditional ski instruction methods.

And, I need to add that I think most here are in agreement that a narrow stance is where it's at, expert skiing wise.

[ August 18, 2002, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: SCSA ]
post #10 of 16
Hi D-S--welcome to EpicSki. Thanks for "coming out" and playing with us!

As soon as the "search" feature gets fixed--which AC tells us shouldn't be too long--you'll be able to go back and find a number of discussions we've had regarding tip lead. For now, here are a few thoughts.

Tip lead is integrally related to many movements in skiing. As such, it really isn't something you can "choose" or play around with, without affecting many other important things. One of the biggest problems with excessive tip lead, as SCSA suggested above, is that it actually hinders good fore-aft balance--ironically. True, it can increase your stability, which is why telemarkers do it. Remember that with softer nordic boots, and lacking locked-down heels, they NEED more stability. But stability and balance are two different things. Indeed, the less you are balanced, the more you need stability!

But that added stability sacrifices balance. The most obvious example occurs during weight transfer. Think about it: say you're balanced "perfectly" on the downhill ski. Then you transfer weight to the uphill ski, which is much farther forward. Either you put yourself immediately into the back seat, or you must thrust yourself ungracefully forward to balance on the new ski. It's a challenge either way.

The other big problem with excessive tip lead (and the related "excess countering") is biomechanical: it locks up your outside knee, preventing you from controlling edge angle ("angulating") with it, and it also interferes with your ability to steer that outside ski through the turn. Both of these effects are due to the rotation it involves in the hip sockets.

You can easily demonstrate this indoors: stand up in a comfortable skiing stance, joints slightly flexed and feet separated naturally. Notice that you can turn either foot left and right without moving your pelvis or upper body. Notice too that you can tip your knees left and right, as well as your hips, both of which enable you to tip your feet (and skis).

Now simulate a lot of tip lead by sliding your left foot way ahead (exaggerate to make the effect more obvious). When you do this, naturally your hips (pelvis) and upper body turn to the right somewhat (let them do this--they would HAVE to with stiff ski boots on). From this position, NOW try tipping your knees. And try turning your right foot to the left. Harder, eh--if not impossible! Both knee angulation and leg steering involve rotation of the femur in the hip socket, and the position that excessive tip lead puts you in simply "uses up" the available rotation. Notice also how difficult it is to shift your balance smoothly from one foot to the other from your exaggerated tip lead stance. It just isn't a very functional athletic stance.

So those are the main problems with excessive tip lead. (Too LITTLE tip lead, by-the-way--too square or "rotated" with outside tip lead--also causes problems.) What's the "right" amount?

My suggestion is to forget about trying to get tip lead "right." Tip lead is a RESULT of other movements--like I said, you really can't just adjust it or control it independently. Appropriate tip lead results from two things.

First, slight tip lead results when both feet turn beneath your pelvis. Remember the exercise above? Try it again: from your natural stance, turn your left foot to the left. Now turn your right foot left, so they're both pointed to your left and "parallel." If you did it correctly, your left foot now leads your right foot slightly--even though you did NOT push it forward (all you did was turn it). Cars do the same thing--when you go through a left turn, your left front wheel actually leads, slightly. The more you turn your feet, and the wider your stance, the more tip lead results.

The other cause of appropriate tip lead is that your inside leg is usually flexed more than the outside leg, especially in the bottom half of a turn on steep terrain--or even a traverse on steep terrain. Stand up once again in your natural stance. Now balance on one foot and lift the other one high, by lifting your knee. The foot moves forward, right?

Both of these things combine in most turns--the "long-leg/short-leg" thing, and the rotation of the legs in beneath the pelvis. So some tip lead is natural, and appropriate. Any more--or less--usually indicates some incorrect movements.

So that's the theory behind the tip-lead thing. As you can see, it explains why you often DO see considerable lead in very steep terrain (more long-leg/short leg), especially with very short turns (just like a car, the "wheels" turn more beneath the "chassis" in tighter turns). But focusing on the tip lead in your own technique is focusing on the effect, rather than the cause. Work to develop good basic movement habits (and eliminate, if necessary, bad habits), and tip lead will take care of itself.

Best regards,
Bob Barnes
post #11 of 16

Most good skiers that I've spent time with in a varity of snow conditions display the ability to adjust their stance and skill blend to the snow and task at hand. Most average skiers have a stance and/or skill blend that works in most but not all conditions. They lack the insight, practice or both to allow themselves to adapt to changing conditions.

We were doing a video of Exam cadidates last year. In the same day we skied 'train tracks' and steeps with choppy wet heavy snow.

When looking at the video that night it was observed that the only skiers who performed well in the groomers and the difficult snow had narrowed thier stance when going off piste. As we talked about this it was discovered that only one of those people had thought about making that change, the rest had just reacted to the change in conditions.

We must remember that one Movment pattern does not work for all situations. CAN YOU SAY ROUND PEG-SQUARE HOLE!!!
post #12 of 16
SCSA--good posts! It is getting harder and harder for me to adhere to the grand tradition of disagreeing with you!

However, I must point out one important thing, just so we don't mislead someone. Pulling the inside ski back is the right move ONLY FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE TOO MUCH TIP LEAD. There are many skiers out there who "rotate" their upper bodies and as a result, often have too LITTLE tip lead--their OUTSIDE ski may even lead slightly. For these skiers, your advice would only worsen the problem.

If your stance is already "perfect," there certainly is no need to pull that inside ski back farther. Pulling the foot back from "neutral" would over-lever its tip, again resulting in fore-aft balance and pressure-control problems.

It is likely that your suggestion could help D-S, but be careful about "blanket advice"--because every skier is different, and every skier's needs are unique. The same is true for the advice to "narrow your stance." Your mentor does not ski with a locked stance--he skis with an open stance, albeit a fairly narrow one (appropriate for HIS unique anatomy--not everyone's). But there ARE many skiers out there who ski with TOO narrow a stance or worse, a locked stance. For these people, the advice to OPEN your stance would be correct--and would help them ski more the way HH skis.

Yes--with your feet separated, you have to control TWO skis, independently. But you do have TWO feet to do it with, don't you? A narrowish stance can help in deep snow, because it makes it easier to balance on BOTH skis at once, doubling your flotation in the bottomless stuff. But turning two skis into one is no more an advantage than skiing a monoski! (I should note, though, that monoskis are at their best in bottomless powder. Elsewhere, the lack of independent leg action has few advantages, and many disadvantages.)

Anyway, just wanted to clear those points up. I realize that your advice IS directed specifically toward Didelis-Skier--and it may well be appropriate for him. But I must point out that it is NOT correct for everyone!

Best regards,
Bob Barnes

Edit--I see that Hap has just made the same point. Giving someone a round peg is just the right thing--if and only if they have a round hole to fill! Thanks, Hap!

[ August 18, 2002, 09:55 AM: Message edited by: Bob Barnes/Colorado ]
post #13 of 16

Hapski and Barnes say it best. There is no blanket technique that works for all and I didn't want to suggest that it does.

But there's movements that are universal.

Do what Barnes says. Learn what the correct movements are, focus your energy there. I get the feeling (Barnes, Hapski, you agree?) that you do not understand what "proper" skiing movements are, and therefore, you're having trouble, getting confused.

So what are the proper movements? Well, learn to ski with your feet, to start. Barnes has a good one, "Left tip to go left, right tip to go right". This is a very basic statment, but powerful. What do you need to do to tip? Roll your foot over. See the focus on the feet?

I don't want to tell you that the cult is the only way. More and more, ski instruction is blending. The ski community all agree that skiing is done with the feet and that "tipping" is an accurate descriptor.

So getting back to where we started, it's the movements that you should be concentrating on now. Until you have a proper understanding of the movements, I think you'll have trouble progressing. And at this point I'll add that movements pertain to the whole body. Yes, you'll need to learn how to use your feet, but also your upper body.

How to learn the movments? Honestly and without reservation and I can say that I see two people in ski instruction who really understand what good skiing movements are and how to teach them; Harald Harb and our own, Bob Barnes.

Bob Barnes has concentrated on teaching other instructors, but he also works with skiers like you and I. Harb focuses on teaching skiers.

Contact them both, book a lesson or few with whomever you feel the most comfortable.

post #14 of 16

Please explain the movement. You tip your inside ski to the little toe side and pull you ski back? I don't recall seeing this in the book or on the video or having HH demo it. For efficiency why wouldn't one release both edges and then turn guide both skis around the turn with turn initiation starting with the inside ski. As long a your CM is moving into the turn I am not sure why one would be required the extra movement of pulling the inside ski back underneath them?

Have a GREAT day. :

[ August 18, 2002, 12:57 PM: Message edited by: John Cole ]
post #15 of 16

They're two separate movements, but both part of the PMTS system.

Tipping is central to the system. From the beginning, lifting the tail of the downhill ski to get the tipping action, to advanced - lightening the downhill ski over onto it's outside/little toe side, but keeping the ski on the snow.

Think of tipping/rolling the inside ski to it's outside edge, as the goal - but without lifting the ski off of the snow to do so. To get there, you do practices and drills. Starting out, you lift the tail of the ski just enough to get the tip to engage on its outside edge.

Keeping the inside foot pulled back, under the hips, is another something you learn in PMTS. In the beginning, you learn tipping and to pull the inside foot back. Once you progress, you learn to roll the inside ski over to it's outside edge, while at the same time, pulling the same foot back.

Clear as mud?

I'm not an instructor, just a student of it. If you're confused about the sequences, or how the two work together, call HH or Diana. They'll set you straight.


[ August 18, 2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: SCSA ]
post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 
Wow! I'm overwhelmed by the number and quality of your suggestions, exercises, etc. Thanks everybody - I realize that you all put a lot of effort into these long responses! The problem right now is that there is almost too much information for me, but let me try to mention a few things that seemed really good.

Tom Burch - I feel most like drawing #4 - a very straight back, but my hips very forward, maybe just past my toes. Bob Barnes says this is due to too much forward lean in the boots, and I believe this because I can never really straighten my ankles to verticle in my boots. Yes, I do have trouble transversing over bumps - I get thrown all over the place, so instead, I carve around them keeping any up and down motion to an absolute minimum. I think you are definitely on to something with your suggestion about boots. Mine were low end several years ago and when not skiing, I feel like they force me to walk around like an ape - ha - because of the constantly bent ankles.

John Cole - Your exercises taught me a lot, both the "lateral move" one, and the foot-twisting one. After doing them I see what you mean about too much tip lead really messing up moves that are what I need to do when skiing. I only mentioned tip lead in bad snow, but you guessed that I probably also had too much counter, which I presume means reverse shoulder. In bad snow, I look a bit like some skier from the 1950's coming down the hill leading the way with his shoulder. Fortunately, in good snow, I don't look so weird.

SCSI - I understand your concerns about skiing with your legs too far apart. If anything, I'm the opposite - too old school, and ski with my legs too close side to side, its just that I split them front to back.

Mr. Barnes - Thank you particularly for taking the time to write your detailed response. I think you were focussing your comments more on tip lead during turns. I may not have made it clear in my first message, but I only tend to use extra tip lead in straight line situations in bad snow. I know that when I do need to make a turn, I always bring my legs together. In fact, I pretty much have to bring them together to make the turn happen. What this does do is slow down turns from a schuss or traverse since bringing my legs together takes time, especially if they the wrong leg is advanced for the turn I want to make. Thank you for the exercises you suggested. I tried the first one (my wife thought I was crazy for doing all of these) and saw exactly what you meant that a lot of tip lead interferes with angulation. Your second exercise was also very good - tip lead develops just from pivoting motions without even trying. Just to make sure I did it right, if I did 45 degree pivots, the tip lead that I developed put the heel of one foot just about level with the toes of the other foot. Is this about the right amount to go for when skiing?

This is a lot of stuff to think about. I only go skiing maybe 10 times per year if I'm lucky, but as per your suggestions, it sounds like its time to think about some new boots as mine were low-end several years ago and definitely take a lesson when there is bad snow on the ground instead of only doing lessons on good snow days as I had been doing.

All - thanks once again for you suggestions - I really appreciate you all taking the time to help me with this problem.
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