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Head Supershape Magnum factory specs

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Anyone know what the factory specs for base and edge bevel are for Head Supershape Magnum ?
post #2 of 9
Put a 1 base edge and 3 side edge on them. If done properly you should find that smooth & predictable with much enhanced edge grip and no detriment in soft snow.

Head's factory tune is poor at best. Way too much base bevel and not enough side edge bevel. (you'll have to plane quite a bit of the sidewall lip back)

I own 5 pair of Head skis. All of mine are tuned 1/3. It transformed the skis from OK performers (In a couple of cases awful performers) to amazing skis!

One of the pair is the Supershape Speed. Very similar to your Magnum but a bit narrower and a bit torsionally stiffer.
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 

Yeah, I usually go 1/3.  

Although last year I had my main boards done .5/3 and rather liked it.  A tad quicker on edge without any negative handling.

Just curious whether there's anything recommended.
post #4 of 9
Head usually recommends a 1/2. I have found they come more like 2/1 (2 Base and not consistent and a 1 side)

if you like a .5 go for it!  I actually use a .7/3 and a .7/4 on my i.SL Rd
post #5 of 9
I wonder why the factory can't turn the bevels out right? Not knowing any better it wouldn't seem adjusting the process to produce the desired bevels wouldn't be that difficult. Its crazy to think you have to pay a good bit of money for the  product then go get it fixed .
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by roundturns View Post

I wonder why the factory can't turn the bevels out right? Not knowing any better it wouldn't seem adjusting the process to produce the desired bevels wouldn't be that difficult. Its crazy to think you have to pay a good bit of money for the  product then go get it fixed .

thier race room and race oriented skis seem to bmuch better. But both my brand new 88's &  MOJO 94's had to be stoneground out of the wrapper so I could put a 1 degree on them. they were between 1.5 and 2.5 degrees and not very consistent. Had to have the MOJO's ground twice. Even after a normal stonegrind, my 1 degree beveleer with a file didn't touch the edges.

Now that I goth the bases where I wnat them and put a 3 degree side edge on them. All I can say is WOW! what a couple of pairs of skis!!!
post #7 of 9
I think that the wider skis have more inconsistencies in the base flatness simply due to to wider span edge to edge.   Same holds true for the skis that have radically wider tips.  When new, my Monster 88s had less than flat ends.....havent noticed a difference in performance as a result and I haven't the heart to get new skis ground, but I did change the edges to 1/3.
post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie-Rich View Post

I think that the wider skis have more inconsistencies in the base flatness simply due to to wider span edge to edge.   Same holds true for the skis that have radically wider tips.  When new, my Monster 88s had less than flat ends.....havent noticed a difference in performance as a result and I haven't the heart to get new skis ground, but I did change the edges to 1/3.

The wider ski issue is true but normally only in that the center of the ski is concave. This really should have nothing to do with edge geometry, as we are discussing. As long as your base is flat a minimum of of about 8mm in from each edge the concavity really has little or no effect on skiability.

But if your base edge is 2 degrees beveled, have fun slip sliding and surfing down the piste!
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
The wider ski issue is true but normally only in that the center of the ski is concave. This really should have nothing to do with edge geometry, as we are discussing. As long as your base is flat a minimum of of about 8mm in from each edge the concavity really has little or no effect on skiability.

But if your base edge is 2 degrees beveled, have fun slip sliding and surfing down the piste!
 
I believe Atomic proved the concavity thing with their Beta skis. Were'nt everyone of them concave? Years ago I had a pair of the ghastly 9.34 slaloms that I bought a season after they came out. I had a good shop try to flatten them - took many passes and they still couldn't do it. It worked out ok, since I couldn't stand the ski and after 3 runs I sold it on ebay.
Their skis peformed very well indeed though with a fair amount of concavity.

I suppose we could debate how far in from the edge they should be flat. 8mm - what 5/16 inch? seems too little. I've heard the 25% of the width thrown around. On a race ski you're then talking 16mm.
Of course if you ski in soft snow all the time none of this matters.
Plus, what's the best base bevel for rails?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

Put a 1 base edge and 3 side edge on them. If done properly you should find that smooth & predictable with much enhanced edge grip and no detriment in soft snow.

Head's factory tune is poor at best. Way too much base bevel and not enough side edge bevel. (you'll have to plane quite a bit of the sidewall lip back

 
So true. My SS magnums were just  a disaster on the base - both pairs actually, the first ones and the replacement pair which was the next model year. Base bevel going from little to probably 5 degress.
Why? Ask the manufacturer. Most new skis need to be tuned anyway - ie. base flattened and base bevel set and side edge set,  but few people want to hear that. I wonder how Kastle is, and I've heard that Vist skis come very well tuned.
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