Pronation could be at play here. I am giving your cork footbed the benefit of the doubt. For me the footbed just needs to get the the heel bone captured and in the ballpark of the neutrally oriented heel cord. Typically that is the best feature of a Superfeet Kork. The occasional weak link to the kork ( especially if not well built) is that the material can come up a little short on the front half of the arch into the big toe.
This goes back to my reccommendation that you look to fill that area at the front of the arch to just behind the 1st. met head. Especially if there is some forefoot issue at play, like a hyper mobile 1st ray, or some other functional forefoot issue like Charlie mentioned that is not allowing you to grind out a cigarette with the inside half of your foot.
I cannot speak to what Mosh is currently doing, however the stuff that I have seen in the past involves full length posting of the entire foot, mostly varus posting using shims or building a footbed that takes the rearfoot and forefoot out at the same angle. Very interestng stuff, not sure if this would be helpful for you.
The shin plate can be used to hold the shin up taller and straighter when used with the booster strap. The net effect would give you more pressure higher up the leg at the shin. This could help you to get more of the work done higher in the turn so that you can use that accelleration to help you through the bottom instead of gritting your teeth and trying to hold on to the edge with all your might. This is not just a move for racing, but will give you an incredible thrill ripping up any snow condition with greater control and greater speed.
You do not have to add toe lifts to the boot. You can adjust the ramp angle by raising either toe or heel component of the binding with shims. Cheap and elegant solution. The only exception where this does not work will be on sytem bindings.
Much of this can be done on the cheap. It can also be done systematically. For example first just tweak your existing footbed then go out and ski without making any other changes to the boot. Next slide in a 1 or 2 mm shim on top of the boot board under the ball of foot and toes. Ski that and see if that works. If you get a positive result try slidng a shin plate in at differing heights to the shin, see what that does. If it works, rivet it in. Next play with binding delta using 3mm bontex shims on top of the toe AFD, then reverse and put the shims on the heel piece as you step in. See which direction gives you a better feel. Maybe all or maybe none of this will work. Low cost with potential high impact.
You could also just throw down for new straighter/stiffer boots, new footbeds(well built), and alignment from a pro, and a week training course with NASTC at some exotic location or a trip to a masters camp at Hood.
And as long as you have the checkbook out lets book you in with a plastic surgeon for calf implants, or maybe a calf reduction? Depends on which new boot you buy.