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Pole Planting In Bumps

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Now that I am getting more aggressive in bumps I have a question.

When I was learning bumps it was easy to look a few bumps ahead and also see where to pole plant because I wasn't going too fast.

Now that I am skiing them faster I wanted to know the best way to plant accurately but still focus down the hill.

Is there any timing I should think about such as turn this way plant that way or should I just go with the flow and plant where it feels comfortable to keep my upper body quiet and in balance?
post #2 of 10
Touch to release. The trick is to have your pole ready to touch when your feet are ready to release. I cue movement of the new pole basket with the pole touch. I try to have constant movement of the pole baskets all the time and especially in the bumps.
post #3 of 10
FTD is what I teach, Flick, Touch, Drive. I would recommend two things:

1) Focus on the Drive - that is, drive your hand forward as you extend over the bump to get your skis back on the snow.

2) Practice different places to plant/touch the pole, before the top, on the top, over the top (i.e. on the backside). I have found that planting over the top in soft snow to be quite valuable. In my teaching of bumps I will have students make a dozen turns for each placement and then figure out for themselves what works best for that day.

Bumps are a very personal thing. There really is no right way or wrong way. Simply, what's right for you. Try these two things and let us know how it works.

The PSIA web site has an archive of articles that appeared in The Professional Skier. There is a great article by ex bump king John Clendinin on pole plant in the bumps. You will notice that I borrowed FTD from him (although I invented the acronym).

post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 

I will try some of these hopefully this week or weekend.
post #5 of 10
Backside of the mogul is where you want to touch. Careful not to over rotate by driving too hard. When I was learning the basics, I worked very hard on driving the hands. Had to learn to back off a bit. Much more in the wrist now. Careful how much force you use. You don't want to stick to pole in. Try to keep your hands in front. Poles should "Pop" up toward your armpits as you roll over the bump. I actually don't grip with my pinkie anymore. look at your avatar or here for a good demonstration:

post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 

I have been recording everything with Ski and Snow on TiVo and love watching the bump competitions.
post #7 of 10
My 6 year old can help with this one. As soon as she develops the skills to type her response, she'll chime right in.

In her case, the only time she ever plants her poles is in the bumps.
post #8 of 10

Isn't TiVo great?!

I get OLN and record anything with skiing in it. I also did a key word search for Warren Miller, because they show clips of his movies once in a while.

I also now have it set to record Bicycle Racing. OLN is only showing the stages of Paris/Neice (sp?) once a day, while I'm at work, but now I get to watch it all. The wife wanted TiVo for Xmas, and I was like "it's just a glorified VCR", but man was I wrong. I'm glad I gave in and got it for her (even if I am overrun with Oprah episodes)
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Skier's World isn't bad either but they seem to focus on Cananadien resorts and they are like 2-3 years old.

Also Jeep King of The Mountain is on a season pass. That gets kinda boring though.
post #10 of 10
How much Shorter Poles for BUMPS?

I checked out the Jennifer Heil video. At full speed you miss a lot. Try playing it with the right arrow button.

NOt that I can do as well or anything, But I notice that often part or even her whole ski is getting 'air'losing contact from the snow as she crests each bump, in the air she is forced to accelorate her extention causing some skid in her turn.

NOtice too how Short her poles are. ON some of the very compressed body positions, the Pole is just to her arm pit. SO for bump skiing like this, how much shorter do people suggest? I have been experimenting with my adjustables and have found that ~3 inches shorter +/- 1/2 inch is ideal for me. In thicker snow closer to 4". Otherwise, it is not uncomon for my pole to get stuck and prevent release, causing my arm to rotate back and 'drag' the pole out of the release.


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