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29er - Stan's Tubeless Rims vs UST Rims vs Regular Rims with Stan's System

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

I'm buying a FS 29er and can't decide whether it is worth the hassle to go with a tubeless system, and if so which one of the three options.  Any personal experience comments would be appreciated.  Thanx.

post #2 of 14
cheapest/lightest/dont have to deal with presta valves is to go ghetto tubeless.

do a google search and you will find out how.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ghetto+tubeless

use 26 schrader valves tubes and you may have to drill out the rims.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRM7gq1fcoQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwON2VxZL0g

works better than any other way IMO can use non UST tires and non UST wheels. which means it lighter.
post #3 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by BushwackerinPA View Post

cheapest/lightest/dont have to deal with presta valves is to go ghetto tubeless.
 

???? What's the problem with prestas? That's all I'd ever use by choice on a bike - excellent design, don't leak, lightt, don't get contaminated when you've lost your dust cap. I don't think I've ever seen anyone recommend schrader over presta before.
post #4 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Squawker View Post




???? What's the problem with prestas? That's all I'd ever use by choice on a bike - excellent design, don't leak, lightt, don't get contaminated when you've lost your dust cap. I don't think I've ever seen anyone recommend schrader over presta before.

presta valves belong on road  and cross bikes.

-running 20-25 psi on a MTB the valve never leaks air anyways
-you can unscrew the valve and put more sealant in without unseating the bead
-I never run caps and I never get contaminated, I MTB about 100 miles a week in every weather condition

what actually make the design so excellent mister engineer? the only real plus is being able to hold higher pressures without leaking, at normal modern MTB pressure of 20-30 psi this is really a non issue.
post #5 of 14
Well there you go... I got my answer. Thanks.
post #6 of 14
UST
UST
UST
UST
UST

You can run any tire you want, but when using UST tires you will probably not need sealant. You can also run regular tires tubeless with sealant. Or you can pull the valve out and run a tube.

I've been running UST since I got a bike with Crossmax SLs in 2004 and haven't had a flat yet (knocks wood). I now have the one pair of CMax, 2 1/2 pair of 819s, 1 pair 823s and a Shamino Road Tubeless.

All of my friends that have tried going halfway with a Stan's system or ghetto setup have given up and gone back to tubes.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Tubeless definitely has some performance advantages because of the ability to run lower tire pressure without pinch flats, but they can also be a hassle.  What about the fact that with 29" wheel you have a bigger contact patch that allows you to run lower tire pressure (than a comparable person on a 26er) and also gives less likelihood of a pinch flat.

I guess my question really is, if I switch to a 29er with regular tubes and tires I should be able to lower my tire pressure and my chance of pinch flatting, how much more do I gain by going with tubeless?  Is it that big of an advantage and weight savings?  The stats on the weight savings seem to be confilicting.
Edited by mudfoot - 8/12/2009 at 02:21 pm GMT
post #8 of 14
UST all the way!

Particularly if you like running lower tire pressures.

I like using Bontager and Stans rims because they are super simple to set up tubeless. They are made to accept tubeless rim strips and valve cores.

You can use any tire on them. I would caution against a non-tubeless, ultra thin casing, type tire, full of Stans sealant. It seems to eat/rot the cords of the casing (from sitting in the H2O mixture for a long time). I still do this occasionally, but I started tearing out sidewalls on the tires (Hutchison Air-Lights, Bontrager Jones). It took me a while to figure out why. I mostly use UST specific type tires now, they just hold up better. The extra weight is worth the added reliability to me.
post #9 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudfoot View Post

Tubeless definitely has some performance advantages because of the ability to run lower tire pressure without pinch flats, but they can also be a hassle.  What about the fact that with 29" wheel you have a bigger contact patch that allows you to run lower tire pressure (than a comparable person on a 26er) and also gives less likelihood of a pinch flat.

I guess my question really is, if I switch to a 29er with regular tubes and tires I should be able to lower my tire pressure and my chance of pinch flatting, how much more do I gain by going with tubeless?  Is it that big of an advantage and weight savings?  The stats on the weight savings seem to be confilicting.
Edited by mudfoot - 8/12/2009 at 02:21 pm GMT

the bigger contact patch with the 29er is longer and not wider meaning it only help for and aft traction not lateral. Same pressure, same tires 26 vs 29 you will still have as big of a chance of pinch flatting with tubes.

The biggest advantage off tubeless are this

- lower pressure with out almost any chance of pinch flatting.
- better grip due to lower pressure
- faster rolling due to lower pressure
- more supple ride due to lower pressure

and you also get faster rolling due to decreased friction due to no tube/tire rubbing as the the tire flexes over terrain.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks, you guys are giving me just the kind of info I was looking for.  I think my decision is now down to Stans or Bontrager Race Rims.  Another added advantage is the possibility of self-sealing punctures running with sealant.

I suppose I can always just run tubes if it turns out to be too much hassle. The difference between those rims and non-tubeless is not that big.
post #11 of 14
 If I were getting a 29er I'd look at two choices. Mavic C29Max or Shimano XT 29er. Those are the only UST rims that I know of for 29er.
post #12 of 14
If I was building up a 29er. Oh wait, I think I already did this.: ) I would go with Stans Flows, they work well even though they don't have eyelets (this scared me at first). They are strong. Make sure you get the yellow rim strip and valve cores. Go with a hud with either a 15mm or 20mm through axle.

If you cheap and don't mind quick release get some Bontragers off e-bay.

The C29Max is kind of flexy (28 spoke). Good wheels,though and I may end up with some if I buy a Fuji Outland 29er. Holding out to see if the 2010 comes witha through axle.
post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Well, I pulled the trigger on the new 29er, although the Niner Jet 9 frames are back ordered and I may not be riding it for two months.  Thanks to all your help, and my subsequent researching of internet reviews, I decided on the Stans Arch Rims.  They are just a little more heavy duty and laterally stiffer than the regular Stans 355s, and with my size it seems to make sense.  I'm having them built up with some Hope Pro II hubs.  It should a fairly light yet durable tubeless setup, considering my 210 lbs that'll be abusing it.

Thanks again for all your input.
post #14 of 14
Mudfoot post it up when you get the bike.

Sounds like a nice plan. I have Hop Pro II's mounted up to my Flows. Very stiff, have been able to knock them out of true yet. Spoke tension is very important on 29ers. Plan on redishing them after they are on the bike, after a couple rides.
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