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Off Season Ski Storage - Page 2

post #31 of 37
This is great advice.
Does anyone spray bindings action with silicone spray anymore or any type of lube spray or otherwise?
post #32 of 37

I know of no one who backs off the valve springs of their lawn mower or seasonal use vehicle. Not  even the local race car or motor cycle enthusiasts;  though doing so is not a bad idea,  I never have in decades of skiing or vehicles;  some of which have set for years unused.


I am not a back country bash er of huge forceful deep snow arc's, rocks and trees;  thus it is not an issue of ill-safety if ejected..  My bindings are set on the light side;  by my ask or deed,  lighter than the charts dictate.  I am glad to be out of them should I need to be with no knee strain,  and have not been released when I should not have been.


I intend to,  but have not always waxed before storage.  Same wax I will be skiing on;  scrapped and buffed or brushed.  If not,  then simply rubbing wax, any wax  even a candle on the edges to prevent rust is good.


Storage is upright on their tails, in the basement many times strapped at the tips, generally with a piece of 1/4" insulation foam between them loosely brake enter-twined.  I think it would be best to leave them apart at the midsection;  materials,  wood or man-made certainly can take a set,  and  can warp on their own, w/o other influence.

post #33 of 37

We put our skis in bags and put them in our climate controlled off site storage unit. My goal is to get the velcro ski holder together thingy's :) for each pair but haven't gotten there yet.   

post #34 of 37
I do zilch. Mostly. Climate controlled storage, don't cinch skis together with Velcro, but that's about it until following season when I do reality check on edges and wax. Rationale: I'm time starved, and on a molecular level (brain or bases, take your pick) doubt all the prep makes much diff. Probably wrong...
post #35 of 37
My neighbor swears that I need to detension my binding springs for off season, all I've done previously was click the heel down.

I feel good about doing what has worked for years, my corner storage is dry and cool.
post #36 of 37

Perhaps mentioned earlier in the thread, but the old Saloman 727's and other bindings for a few years had plastic housings.  Storing bindings at full tension could cause problems for the housing, not particularly the springs.  I do have a set of old Equipe bindings with the metal housings for my retro K2 Comps.  I cannot determine any difference in spring strength after all these years of storing under tension.


Based on research I have read for other endeavors, it's the cycling of the springs that will wear them out more quickly than leaving stored under tension.  I will leave my DIN's where they are for the off season.  Always a good idea to have them checked at the beginning of the next season- particularly for higher DIN race bindings.


Sometime in the upcoming weeks, on a very nice day I will set up outside and thoroughly brush out my bases, flush them out with a hot scrape of base prep wax, then iron apply a clean layer of base prep wax.  Most of my in season waxing is done via the Ski MD Pro Glide (burnishing method).  Works well for race prep and conserves expensive fluoro based waxes.


Storage is upright, velcro'd together at tip and tail.  Climate controlled basement -never any corrosion on the edges.

post #37 of 37
I've let the springs down the last few years on my family's​ skis. I went ahead and tuned the skis after removing a little rust from the edges with a gummy stone since some were a little pitted with dings acquired from rocks and such lurking below the snow surface. I didn't want any rust to set over the summer. I store my skis in a dehumidified work room in my basement, so may be overkill. My all-mountain skis are Elan Amphibio 88 XTI's, which are a left-right specific set of skis with full camber on the inside edges and rocker on the outer tips and tails. Consequently, my inside edges were noticeably more out of tune than the outside edges, which took almost no filing to reset the edge. I really like the grip that cambered inside edge gives me on east coast hardpack as I'm a larger than normal skier.

After tuning and cleaning the skis, I scrapped and checked the bases were still flat then brushed them out well with a brass brush. I applied a layer of Dominator ReNew prep wax for storage and ironed in well to saturate the bases, but will not scrap until next fall. I will do this again next fall as part of the pre-season prep, and have always done this at least twice before applying the first daily wax. So any effort now let's me reminiscence about the past season and saves me a little time next fall. I didn't notice any base burn like in past seasons, and the bases absorbed at least some of the prep wax, so I hope I'm finally getting to a sustainable level of ski maintenance. I don't velcro the tips and tails together like I normally do before a trip during the season.

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