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Waxing Skis

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hey Guys,

I'm new to owning ski's not new to skiing so i am very excited to take care of them and treat them well.

Just after some answers about some no doubt FAQ's

Can you wax your skis too much? (can you give me the name of your favored wax?)

How can you take care of your edges i.e is there any tips on maintaining them?

And any other things you've learned over the years to keep them in fantastic condition.


post #2 of 12
No you can't really over wax as you scrape it of after hot waxing, I use Doom Dominator Lime Wax.

You can do your own edges, just need some special tools, have a look at www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/view/14/32/ its a UK site but gives you a pretty good idea of what you need and how it all works, also have a look at www.svst.com they have tips and sell the tools you need.
If your going to do a few pairs of ski's its worth investing in a ski vice, I use jaws of beast www.the-raceplace.com they also sell tools.
post #3 of 12
 Hi CrazyJester.   Welcome to EpicSki!

I'm moving this over to the tuning and maintenance area where you may get more info and have some great search ideas.

You will notice two ads at the top of the Tuning area for Slidewright and Racewax.com.  Both of these gentlemen are sponsors of this sight and have a wealth of knowledge to share on tuning, waxing, and tools.
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
 Thank Radar,

I'll have a look at those links..

I just really want to make sure i take care of them.

Cheers :)
post #5 of 12
 If you search this forum, you'll find tons of great tips on waxing and tuning.

When I wax our skis, I tend to pick a wax that is somewhat hard, which I got from Alpinord(slidewright) and aI scrape  then use a brush to reestablish the texture.
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
yeh i'll give that a go!!
post #7 of 12
Along with EpicSki site searches and Waxing Wikis, here's our site Waxing Tips section and here's our YouTube channel which includes a few videos like the following efficient hot waxing video (be sure to check out the brushing video as well):

post #8 of 12
Hi crazyjester900. I can recommend the tips at Alpinords/Slidewright.com site as well as the Swix School web site( just Google it). I have enjoyed using many of the Sun Valley Ski Tools(SVST). Available at many ski tuning web sites. I have really had great success with Slidewrights/Maplus Race Base Medium Wax. Used it under a great range of snow temps(from -10f to +32f) with great glide and very little to no sticking.It only sticks on melted snow(water puddles).Great durability(3 to 5 days)with softer snow conditions. Two to Three days doing Masters Race Training.Good luck,you will enjoy taking care of your skis yourself and really like blowing past those that do not wax on every glide path.
post #9 of 12
There are a couple issues I have with Alpinord/Slidewright...
  • If you call him for information, he'll be sooooo informative that you'll have a hard time remembering it all
  • If you're geeked about buying something he may talk you out of it because he tries really hard to make sure you don't buy stuff you don't need. 
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all your help.

I'm keen on trying to keep my gear in as good condition as i can.

post #11 of 12
 I've actually just started waxing my own skis.

I got middle-class ghetto stylee and use 2 dining room chairs with grocery store bags laid out on the hardwood floors to catch dripping wax.

I've been double waxing my skis for summer corn, laying down some purple all temp Purl rimmed with One Ball Jay all temp soybean (Purl dripped down the middle, OBJ dripped along the sides) as the first coat, then letting them bake in the backyard for a day, cool, then scrape. For the second coat I go with some Purl Yellow Spring and Orange Spring wax, again dripping the yellow down the sides and the orange down the middle. Bake again, then scrape. This has been working really well on the summer sun-cupped and corn snow I've been skiing in late May, June, and July. 

Oh yeah, when not using the dining room chairs as my work bench, I usually use old plastic milk crates. 

I'm trying to go as "green" as possible, which is why I'm working with the Purl and OBJ waxes, though I do have a few flouro waxes still lying around.

I just purchased a basic kit from Purl, which included a number of bars of their natural wax, a scraper, and a guide to basic patterning and waxing. http://purlracing.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=13&products_id=30&osCsid=d0fd7f25019c9d565bbd9216dcff4048

some folks are pretty meticulous about scraping, wanting to get it perfect so you don't really see the wax. Me, I do about 3-5 scrapes, but don't worry about getting it super even as I'm not racing and more often than not skiing uneven, wonky terrain. That and a buddy of mine who used to instruct at Heavenly is fond of telling a story about a crazy Austrian that ran the ski school several years back who would just slop the wax on and go on his way w/o scraping. The wax is gonna wear off after 3 days anyway, so the more the merrier was his thought on the subject.  But to each their own (me, I just get tired of scraping, so I do it like I said, about 3-5 times and then roll with it...I basically make sure any large clumps are smoothed out and even).

This local Tahoe shop that Sierra Jim used to work at, The Star Haus, has some basic articles on tuning and waxing that I found decent:
post #12 of 12
Wrong post.
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