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Blemished Prototypes FS-$300

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 

I have a pair of my prototypes that are blemished. Dimensions are 130-90-115 at 186 cm. Core is Ash and Maple, if I remember correctly.

 

The blem is the result of a core shift in one ski, making the requested 5mm threaded inserts unusable.

 

I would like to get $300 for these, as that covers my costs. These have a full race tune and are ready for you to mount your bindings.

 

 

Core shift in left ski, 7.5mm to the right.

 

 

Closeup of shift, mind the toe.

 

 

 

Closeup of correctly placed inserts with rough ski center line (for scale) I will mark the true cord center before shipping.

 

 

Shifted inserts

 

 

Pristine bases. These were given a race tune by a very good tech, Jim Myrick, who posts here as skierracing. Odds are he remembers me and these skis, you could try to PM him.

 

I need to sell these ASAP, but would really like to recoup my costs. Mounting alpine bindings should not interfere with the inserts, but I wouldn't recommend planning to use the inserts.

 

Any questions please PM me.

post #2 of 25
Thread Starter 

BUMP:

 

Buy these skis by Tuesday and get these:








Salomon DR9 Equipe w/ suspension. Skinny brakes, DIN 6-14.

I am told that you can un-suspension these, I may even have the required components.

FREE!

They've been dirty and sitting in a box waiting for a project since I bought skis of CL last summer.

post #3 of 25
Thread Starter 

I might even consider mounting the bindings....

post #4 of 25
Thread Starter 

bump

post #5 of 25

Ok, Ok, I'll take them. How about you keep the bindings and pay shipping? I forgot I was planning on sending another $C if they came out right, so I guess $300 shipped is fair. Does that sound fair to you?

 

They look real nice.

post #6 of 25
Thread Starter 

Bump

 

Haven't heard back from telerod for a few weeks.

post #7 of 25

I didn't want the skis to arrive while I was out of town, so I delayed mailing the forms to you. I will send next week. Thanks for your patience.

post #8 of 25
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by telerod15 View Post

I didn't want the skis to arrive while I was out of town, so I delayed mailing the forms to you. I will send next week. Thanks for your patience.


No problem, just wanted to make sure you got he forms and we were still good to go.

post #9 of 25
They are the nicest looking skis I've ever seen. Thanks, Kyle. You can't really see how nice they look from pictures. Although backlit here, the bling is still too much.
The offset. Check the bottom ski. Would you ski a mount this far off??Tails notched for skins.
Jackson likes 'em. 

 
post #10 of 25
Nice pics TR.    Can't wait to see 'em live.
post #11 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by telerod15 View Post

The offset. Check the bottom ski. Would you ski a mount this far off??

 

Boy WOULD I!  I've seen worse come out of "reputable" shops passed as perfect..  And, the fact that they're gonna be flopping around off the tips of your toes anyway should negate it fine.

Nice boards indeed.
post #12 of 25
Thread Starter 
Rodney,

I'm glad we've resolved this and taken care of everything. I'm also glad I took the time to track down a tap to clean out the threads before i sent these out, i had a feeling you would mount the bindings at least once!

BTW, what was your opinion on the packaging, how well did it hold up?

-Kyle
post #13 of 25
The packaging was sufficient. Of course I couldn't wait until I got home to remove all the bubble wrap and newspaper to have a look. Then I shoved them back into the box, strapped them down and hoped the SMV sign wouldn't saw through the cardboard before I got home.
post #14 of 25
Honestly, I'd swap the bindings L-R.
post #15 of 25
what can an off set binding do to your ski's performance? 
post #16 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post

Honestly, I'd swap the bindings L-R.

Naw, TR wants that tight edge inside when he's goin switch!
post #17 of 25
 I think I will drill them. The main reason I wanted the threaded inserts was because I have a bad habit of ripping the binding screws out of my skis. Although these inserts are not centered well, as long as I have four small bolts in my repair kit, I can field repair a binding screw rip out as good as new. I may never use the inserts, but it's a nice feature to have them just in case.
post #18 of 25
Bad habit of ripping the binding screws?  

Out of curiosity, do you rip the front four before you rip the underfoot ones?

I've been saying for a long time that the binding tension spring on those^  bindings (particularly the older ones with the 2-piece plate)  preloads the binding screws in rotation.    Higher binding tension -> more screw pullout risk.

I was expecting (and hoping)  that the newer generation of super-thick grey plastic would make the problem go a way.    Now I wonder if that's true.
post #19 of 25
 I wouldn't drill them again.  My vote goes for being just fine as is.  At the very least ski them and see if you really can honestly say they aren't good as is. I've mounted plenty of my own bindings,some perfect, some off a little bit.  What I've found over the years is that a tiny tad off to the side makes very little if any noticeable difference.  But, a tiny bit fore or aft makes a pretty big difference in the performance of a ski.  Before you drill them again be sure that you also don't like the fore aft mounting point or you're likely to do more harm than good.  Take them out and try them first.
post #20 of 25
 OK, CRG, good idea. I'll give them a try. They look badly off center to me, I think the camera angle might make them look better in that picture, and the blue part seems to be sitting off-center of the plate, as if it's trying to compensate!

Comprex, I haven't ripped out one of the new ones with the big gray plastic plate, but I've skied less than ten days on the new design. I have a pair on the K2s I started using 1 1/2 seasons ago. Yes, it's the front screws that I've ripped out in the past. Those four screws do not go into the ski anymore, they only hold the release mechanism to the gray plate now, which I think should help prevent rip out.

I never put much tension on the cables, just enough to keep them from coming off. I feel like rocker in the boot sole played a bigger part in preloading the screws, The new gray plates are ramped to prevent that. I also think the fact that the mounting screws are now under foot instead of out in front makes it harder to put a great force on them when in the backseat (or in the trunk, or falling over backwards...). So, yes, I think the newer design should help prevent this from happening.

I've ripped out fixed heel bindings, too, I'm larger than average and I have below average balance skills. I think binding rip out is an issue with Telemark bindings in general, and I don't have reason to believe the Voilé system is more prone to this problem than other bindings.

Edited by telerod15 - 7/13/2009 at 08:27 pm GMT
post #21 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum185 View Post

what can an off set binding do to your ski's performance? 

I don't know. I never had a pair of skis wider than the gray part of that binding. I feel like my foot will be too far from either of the edges to have any control at all, but I'm hoping I'm wrong. I've decided  to try the fat ski Kool-Aid, but I've watered it way down (90mm waist). Baby steps.
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
Rod,

How would a 1/4 plate between the ski and binding affect you?
post #23 of 25
 Say, you don't happen to make binding plates, too? 

A quarter inch more lift would put the sole of my boots about one inch above the ski. Although these skis were designed for use in powder for which a lot of lift isn't needed, I don't think an additional 1/4" would be noticeable. On my carving skis, I've added lifters to put me about one and a half inches above the ski, so I'm not afraid of raising my bindings. Open to ideas...
post #24 of 25
Thread Starter 
Well.

If I can get an accurate measurement of how far off the inserts are then I could make an aluminum (maybe plastic) plate with countersunk holes to screw down to the ski. Then offset some threaded holes for the bindings.

We'd need to discuss a few things for this to work out though.
post #25 of 25
 Let me get back to you on that, Kyle. I need some custom plates for another set of skis too.
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