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Mounting Bindings on Fischer FlowFlex Plates

post #1 of 2
Thread Starter 

 So, I mounted some of these today with RXZ-13 bindings on Progressor 9s.  It was such a bitch getting them cranked down, it made me remember MattL's thread from a few months back:




Specifically, this problem:



The plates are about 4-5mm thick aluminum, and are set up with oversized, but not tapped, holes.  Screws look to be the standard #12AB thread.  When you drive them down into the holes, they make their own threads.  I hesitate to use the word "tap", as no metal cutting is involved.  More like "swaging"  the threads in place.


As a result of this wacky process, it was a major chore cranking the bindings down.  I got both toe pieces and one heel piece on without too much trouble, except for blistering the ball of my hand up pretty good from turning the screwdriver so hard.  The remaining heel piece was the bitch -- no matter what, I was running into the situation shown above in the photo from skier357.  I finally had to put an adjustable wrench on the end of my old pozi screwdriver and use that to crank them down.  Kind of hard to do while trying to keep the screwdriver tip pressed down *and* prevent the ski from rotating!


The plate says 8 N-m max torque.  Just for kicks, I used a torque wrench to see how much grunt I was putting in, and it was in excess of 20 N-m.  I wasn't really worried about stripping the holes out since the aluminum was so thick, but cripes, torque greater than 20 N-m is ridiculous for a screwdriver.


The plates are nicely made, and the way they connect to the ski is pretty clever -- these really do not inhibit ski flex at all.  The plate serves as a rigid platform for boot/binding while the ski flexes freely below.  So that part is cool.  But damn Fischer, spend a few extra bucks and pre-tap the holes!  (in case you are wondering, the design of the system prevents anyone from tapping the holes after the plates are assembled at the factory).


post #2 of 2

My problem: when I bought my Cold Heats with Flowflex RZ13 binding, I had "Ski Shop A" put the bindings on and all seemed fine (bindings were seated properly on the plate, no gap like in the picture in the first post).  I removed the bindings before a recent flight; I found that the front screws on the front bindings were slighly longer (@3/4") than the rest of the screws (@5/8") (this seemed proper because those screws travel through a thicker section of the binding); when I went to put the bindings back on at my destination all went well except that one of the rear screws on one of the rear bindings stripped out, and this appeared to be due to the fact that there was very little screw sticking out of the bottom of the binding on the rear holes of the rear bindings (only about 1 or 1.5 threads), which made me think that those screws needed to be 3/4" like the front screws on the front bindings (for instance, if you look at the picture that's in the original post, the screws in the rear of my rear bindings wouldn't even be in the plate if there was that much gap) .  I never saw the "hardware set" that came with the bindings to see what was supposed to be used and I have assumed that Ski Shop A used the right hardware in the right holes (i.e. the 3/4" long screws in the front holes of the front bindings and 5/8" screws in all other locations), but for all I know there were other screws in the set, including an extra set of 3/4" long ones...

Does anyone have any information (the original instructions; personal knowledge) about the screws that should be used for the rear holes of the rear bindings?  I will say that I went to "Ski Shop B" at my destination and they provided me with some longer screws but the thread pitch was much courser than it was on the original screws (original screws about 18TPI, replacement screws about 13TPI) and given that the maximum screw depth on the plate is specified as 4MM (about 0.160") I don't think that a 13TPI screw is the way to go because there would be so little thread purchase in the hole.

It does seem that I've got to find a longer screw for the rear holes.  Is this type of screw standard?

Any and all thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.

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