So, I mounted some of these today with RXZ-13 bindings on Progressor 9s. It was such a bitch getting them cranked down, it made me remember MattL's thread from a few months back:
Specifically, this problem:
The plates are about 4-5mm thick aluminum, and are set up with oversized, but not tapped, holes. Screws look to be the standard #12AB thread. When you drive them down into the holes, they make their own threads. I hesitate to use the word "tap", as no metal cutting is involved. More like "swaging" the threads in place.
As a result of this wacky process, it was a major chore cranking the bindings down. I got both toe pieces and one heel piece on without too much trouble, except for blistering the ball of my hand up pretty good from turning the screwdriver so hard. The remaining heel piece was the bitch -- no matter what, I was running into the situation shown above in the photo from skier357. I finally had to put an adjustable wrench on the end of my old pozi screwdriver and use that to crank them down. Kind of hard to do while trying to keep the screwdriver tip pressed down *and* prevent the ski from rotating!
The plate says 8 N-m max torque. Just for kicks, I used a torque wrench to see how much grunt I was putting in, and it was in excess of 20 N-m. I wasn't really worried about stripping the holes out since the aluminum was so thick, but cripes, torque greater than 20 N-m is ridiculous for a screwdriver.
The plates are nicely made, and the way they connect to the ski is pretty clever -- these really do not inhibit ski flex at all. The plate serves as a rigid platform for boot/binding while the ski flexes freely below. So that part is cool. But damn Fischer, spend a few extra bucks and pre-tap the holes! (in case you are wondering, the design of the system prevents anyone from tapping the holes after the plates are assembled at the factory).