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Thule Ski Box Repair

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

I have an Thule Atlantis 2100 that got badly damaged by a parking garage (don't ask) and the cover has quite a few cracks in the back section of the box top.  Talking to Thule they don't offer replacement tops and said some have had success using -- has anyone used this?  Or does anyone have success stories on repairing ski boxs? Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.

post #2 of 12

Epoxy and duct tape? Don't know, guess it depends how badly crushed it is. Pretty sure there have been a few TGR threads about this...

post #3 of 12

Is that one of the fiberglass models or a vinyl one? If fiberglass you should be able to repair it using fiberglass tape and resin, preferably on the inside. Tape the outside of the cracks in order to keep it together during the repair and to contain any resin that leaks through. Get a hold of a book on kayak or marine fg repair That should be useful. If its vinyl, I don't know, maybe you could rivet aluminum sheet across the cracks or something but that would be ugly. Fibergass should be a piece of cake. You can always bondo the cracks if necessary after repair and even paint the whole thing if you want. Marine paint who be a good choice.

post #4 of 12

I repaired one of those this winter for a friend of mine.  His wife did it on the garage door.  I used west epoxy.  If I was doing it again I would use an intermix of 105 resin and the newer flex resin.  Look on the gouden bros web site under royalux canoe repair for pics on how to bevel the edges and drill stop holes on the cracks.  You will also need to use a blow torch to flame activate the material (HDPE I think).  I also vacuum bagged a 4 oz patch over the outside and inside of the repair.  The repair looks perfect and seems to be holding up fine.

post #5 of 12

Parking Garage .... "don't ask" ............     


How much did it set you back for the tires ... ???  Sounds like you were trying to back out without paying and got nailed by the spike strips and the security bar!


post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies.  And Yuki... "Don't ask" goes along with "wont divulge details"  original tires still intact though.


Below is an image of the box off Thule's site ( it is more a molded plastic than fiberglass  I had one local guy suggest Gorrilla Glue or some sort of "Super Glue" since there are no holes just cracks -- any thoughts?  Tetonpwdrjunkie do you have a link for Gouden Bros web site and more details on 105 resin and flex resin

post #7 of 12

How about some pics?  I'd probably use fiberglass tape and resin/epoxy myself.  It should bond to the plastic no problem (might want to scuff/sand the area first).


Glue along won't work, as it will only seal the fracture lines.  It will not bridge the fractures or restore stiffness to that point, so any load would cause a fracture near/at the same points.

post #8 of 12

Sorry no pics of the repair.  Google West Epoxy.  You will get the Goudgeon Bros website.  They manufacture West Epoxy.  The new flex product is called G-flex.  Buy the kit that comes with the gloves alcohol and colloidal silica.  The canoe repair article is in a back issue of Epoxy-works which is the magazine put out by Goudgeon Bros describing all kinds of projects using epoxy.  I got it as a PDF with a google search of "Royalux repair epoxy".  You should get the idea.  You shouldn't need to vacuum bag the repair although I did.  There is also info on the main Goudgeon site about repairing plastics that describes the surface prep including flame treatment.

You will need a drill and a dremel,  Some tape and a blowtorch.  I also used some 4 oz glass I had hanging around.  I cut some tape from the cloth to follow the cracks and laid a larger piece over the whole thing.  Cut on the bias and it will lay out better.  I used 105 resin for the cloth and the thickened G-flex for the beveled part of the repair.  I would intermix the 105 with the unthickened G-Flex for the cloth wet out if I were to do it again. 

post #9 of 12

+1 for fiberglass tape & epoxy. You can make a flawless repair if the box is fiberglass, but it should work even if it's plastic. You should sand or rasp the surface to get better adhesion. You can weld ABS plastic, but that takes a lot more skill to gain a lasting repair. There are a lot of books & websites showing how to work with fiberglass if you're inclined to try.


If you are not interested in a DIY project, run it by a automotive body shop or perhaps a boatyard and get a quote.

post #10 of 12

One thing no one's mentioned.


Take a drill and drill a hole at both ends of every crack.  This will stop the cracks from spreading, after the fixes above are done.  If you don't, they are pretty much guaranteed to spread, no matter what repair method you use.



post #11 of 12

Actually I did mention drilling stop holes in the cracks.  It's also specifically outlined in the repair procedure from goudgoen along with sanding, alcohol wiping, and flame treating a HDPE substrate.  I can tell you that if the procedure isn't followed through all the steps, that it may not work.  The box I fixed at Christmas time is still holding and is outside 24/7. 

post #12 of 12

The smallest drill bit possible will do but it is critical or with all of the flexing each crack will run.  You could also patch inside and out, the more the better to reduce any flex or movement.


Another thing you might do, depending on how bad it is, a few pieces of alu flat stock and huck rivet them.  Say .... a 1" X 14" strip at the top and one at the bottom.  That would stiffen the repair up and wouldn't look that bad.

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