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Happyness is a sharp scraper

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

Earlier this season, I ordered a new Pansar File from our good friends at Slidewright.  Let me tell you how much this darn thing has helped. 

As some background, I am not a race tuner.  I tune skis and snowboards for my buddies and work for only for beer.  Despite the rec nature of my clientele, they do a decent amount of damage to their gear.  As such, I still need to be able to handle every situation. 


It started out as a tool whose job was to maintain other tools.  It did GREAT in this role.  I have a jig / thing I had bought a while back that can hold a file at 90 degrees.  I put the new file in there and then sharpen my scrapers perfectly flat.  I have used this jig / thing with other types of files, and they just don't do the job properly. 


Scraping wax was all of a sudden a dream.  My old beat scrapers that were previously a pain in the ass were young and perfect again!  Then I had to do some pretty extensive repair work on a snowboard.  Let me tell you, after planing the p-tex a bit with a versa-planer, a sharp scraper is the most wonderful thing for a pro repair.  Not that they were bad before, but they are such perfect repairs.  Flat as hell to the touch and visually perfect as well.  I don't have to over work, I just drag relatively lightly (at least compared to the effort I put in before they were sharp) and the p-tex comes right off in little ribbons until it is flat and smooth. 


Do your own structuring?  Killing off p-tex hairs is no problem at all if you have a really sharp scraper.  I avoided structuring most of the time over the last few years unless I had to do a bunch of repair.  Now I go for it whenever it seems needed without worrying about how long it will take me to get it smooth again.  My clients (ski buddies) can't believe how good their skis are and how fast straight away. 


Then I decided to go pro-modified with this little thing.  There were a rolled edge that looked as if it had melted.  It would have taken an hour of alternating diamond stones and my normal file to flatten the protruding material if you can picture it.  I gently free-handed the file over the affected area for a few passes and lo and behold, the offending metal just flew off.  Word of warning, you don't want to overuse it in this way; it takes off a lot of material quickly.  Used properly though, it can be a real time saver.       


The moral of the story is: No matter what level of tuner you are, you owe it to yourself to have sharp scrapers.  Everything is easier and the results are wonderful. 

post #2 of 10

Good news Mondak.


To be clear, are you were talking about both metal and plastic scrapers? I've been debating whether or not it was worth pursuing a burnishing tool supplier versus simple using files to 'sorta' create a burred edge for metal scrapers.


post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 

The thing I described above that holds the file - well it technically IS a burnishing tool that has a file holder as well.  That is what I bought it for.  The thing is that user error is likely a problem.  What I mean is that maybe in the hands of an expert, the burnishing tool is the way to go, but at best I had inconsistent results when sharpening either plastic or metal and usually I just ended up making them worse.   Overall, I never got it right and then just continued to deal with dull (or now "bumpy") scrapers. 


I'll try and take a picture of what I have and show it to you for your thoughts. 


To answer you first question, yes, I use it for both metal and plastic scrapers and they are now awesome.  You have to use a lighter touch on the metal scrapers and just let the file do the work, but it is great if you ask me.  I think you need something to hold things at 90 degrees though to really make it work.  I just checked your site and you have this thing that should work.  BTW - it is not totally clear to me when reading the description whether or not it includes the Pansar file. 

post #4 of 10

Thanks for the confirmation. I was getting a good edge, but couldn't decide if it was worth it or not for general use to inventory burnishers. For the perfectionist, it might be worth considering, however.


Yes, the Xact Multi-tool comes with the 4" panzer for the very reasons stated above and side wall cutting:



For the next level of accuracy and adjustable width, I ordered the new Toko Sharpener (after drooling over it at SIA)  which also has a panzer:



Truth be told that simply using a panzer (favorite), strawberry or very coarse file in a bench vise gives a reliable edge.


Edited by Alpinord - 3/24/2009 at 05:10 pm
post #5 of 10

As an aside, has anyone tried using a wood or glue scraper for base material removal? Something akin to this:


post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 

That Toko Sharpener is just what I would want and looks very nice.  For $45 bucks though, I think mine is juuuuuust fine (not that it would not be worth it for a frequent tuner / shop).  I like that there is a slot for the scraper rather than having to pin it to one side.  Then again, the metal scrapers are thin so you still would have to hold it on one wall.  


OOOOOOHHHHH WOW!  I just saw those little "fingers" or whatever that hold the scraper against the wall from the inside.  Now THAT is a well thought out tool.  VERY COOL!  Gotta love a good design.  I totally understand the drool factor on that one.  


While we are on the subject of sharpening tools, the stone you sold me last week to redress / sharpen the steel bar in the Skivisions Base Flattener is pretty much mandatory.  The tool is a very good one and quite useful, but I think that I limped around with that thing operating at reduced capacity for majority of the two (three?) years I have owned it.  Now that I resharpened the steel "blade", it works great.  I had tried to sharpen it with other diamond stones in the past and just didn't seem to succeed.  They should charge a little more up front for the tool and then include the stone to sharpen it.  It is not realistic to own that tool without a means to sharpen the blade.     

post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 

No, but my guess is that it would not be sharp enough to do what you want.  Wood glue is usually more brittle and very different from the wood that you are scraping against.  P-tex repairs (what I assume you would want it for) might pull out if you used one of those on them. 

post #8 of 10

The scraper question re-arose when I viewed the new SkiMender video. Looks to work pretty well.

post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 

Yeah - I saw the video now after I responded.  It sure looks easier than what I am using.  The repair he makes with the RP350, he just scrapes off rapid fire and it is done.  Very interesting.  Now you have me wondering.  I think a trip to the hardware store may be in order to find out. 

post #10 of 10

Light, repetive passes with sharp edge is key to remove thin slices versus thicker layers and pull-out, as I'm sure you are aware.

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