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Booster Straps on Kryptons

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 

I've read here that, if possible, it is best to have the booster strap go over the liner's tongue but under the shell.  The Cabrio design seems to work quite well with the strap going over the shell tongue, however the top buckle seems to always get in the way.  I usually have the top buckle closed but loose and the strap seems to always be getting pinched by the cuff under the buckle.  I haved skied with the top buckle undone but the booster strap snug.  I guess that is OK.

 

Today when I took the boots off the dryer, I decided to try running them under the cuff shell, over the spoiler (I think that's what it's called) and over the shell tongue. 

 

It looks like it would work fine but I wanted to make sure it is OK before I melt another hole in the strap (buckle ends up being stopped by the cuff).  The straps aren't new and I want to get as much life out of them as possible.

 

Over shell:

 

 Under Shell:

I would have to move the strap because of the buckle being stopped by the cuff.

 

Thanks,

Ken

post #2 of 19

The usual recommendation is to have the Booster Strap over the back of the shell and not over the shell in front, just over the tongue in front.  Your first photo looks right if it clears the overlap parts of the shell in front.

post #3 of 19
Thread Starter 

"Your first photo looks right if it clears the overlap parts of the shell in front."

 

Just barely and after flexing will have part under it and par on top.  I think what I'll do is set it up as in the first picture and not buckle the top buckle at all.  I don't think the top buckle is needed with a booster strap.

 

I'll try it Friday and see what happens.

 

Thanks,

Ken

post #4 of 19

I have them as in picture 1.

 

Last pro Pro ID model.

 

I wondered about this, the strap is an elastic band essentially, shouldn't it work just as effectively with the "Booster" part offset to one side a bit to give some clearance to the buckle??

 

I have mine centered and the strap mount on my newer model boot allows me to NOT have to poke a hole in the strap---so I can tug on it and reposition it some before I buckle it.

 

post #5 of 19

It looks like with that set up the inner boot and spoiler will flex independantly from the back of the shell.  Don't you think it will break the spoiler off at the screw?

post #6 of 19

I've also read posts here about people cutting the top of the tongue off so the Booster can sit on the liner.  I've just been skiing mine over the tongue in front (like in your first photo) and they seem fine.

 

Paging PhilPug, please pick up the white courtesy phone!

post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 

"Don't you think it will break the spoiler off at the screw?"

 

Which drove me to ask the question before I used it that way.  Though in theory it has to be weaker, I don't think I can generate the force required to snap the spoiler; there is still the T nut and spoiler on the inside holding the strap to the shell.

 

I think I'm going to leave it as in picture 1 as after next week I have all the way until Noveber to obsess about this

post #8 of 19

That's not the recommended way to do it.

 

The Booster strap should be around the outside of the back of the shell.  Please put it back the way you had it around the rear.

 

With overlap liners the Booster works just fine on the exterior of the plastic tongue.  The recommendation to put the Booster directly around the liner tongue is only for traditional tongued liners.  The reason for this recommendation is that there is a gap between a traditional tongue and the front of the shell.  This gap reduces the effectiveness of the Booster when used.  Note that this gap does not exist with an overlap liner and it is thus unnecessary to put the Booster directly around the front of the liner under the shell.

post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 

Which is my plan " I think I'm going to leave it as in picture 1..."

 

My original issue wasn't about performance but interference from the buckle; actually the plastic that holds the buckle ladder and buckle clamp.  It wiggles it way under and above the strap.  More of an annoyance than anything else.

 

Maybe for me (or anyone using Kryptons), the real andwer is to see if I can get the booster strap to replace the top buckle?

post #10 of 19

I have mine replacing the stock powerstrap on all my Flexons.  I'm not sure you would really want to replace the top buckle with a Booster.  I still have a pair of Kryptons, but haven't skied them in a long time.  I do recall having some issues with the Booster on a Krypton and I think that I was planning on removing some of the plastic from somewhere to fix the problems (I'd have to dig up my notes from back then on what the plan was).

post #11 of 19

OK - I remember the plan now after looking at your first two pictures again.  There is "piece" of plastic on the upper side of both sides of the cuff wrap-around that should be removed.  Just follow the "line" that's already on the cuff plastic.  I've marked the line in red.  The area in blue is what should be removed on each side.

 

 

IIRC, that's where I was finding some problems with the Booster riding into the wrong place during the course of a ski day.  I wish I could remember all the details of how I arrived at this idea, but all I can recall at the moment was the idea I had to solve my problems with the Booster on a Krypton.

post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 

Noodler,

 

I'm putting my manufacturing hat on.  Manufacturers don't typically put on more material than they have to unless it is part of a design.  Since the piece of plastic you're talking about cutting off would be covered by one strap or another, why put it there?  It doesn't add to the appeal.  Why isn't there one on the other side of the boot?

 

I believe the answer is (at least it is for me) to hold the booster strap in a position that it is against the tongue AND under the outer shell top buckle.

 

 

 

 

Sorry the pics are a little blurry (11 y/o only have so much patience).  But in this set up, my original problem goes away, the strap is under the shell (sort of) as designed by the booster manufacturer, it follows a linear path around the cuff instead of being pushed up by the outer shell buckle and it feels right!  And of course to route it this way, you need to have it routed behind the outer shell.

 

Thanks for drawing my attention to this.  I'll try it Friday and let you know.

post #13 of 19

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by L&AirC View Post

 

Noodler,

 

I'm putting my manufacturing hat on.  Manufacturers don't typically put on more material than they have to unless it is part of a design.  Since the piece of plastic you're talking about cutting off would be covered by one strap or another, why put it there? 

To keep the D ring of the original power strap -out- of the boot (i.e. from pressuring into the liner as it is tensioned?

Quote:
It doesn't add to the appeal. 

Well, it sort of does, it allows the D ring to lie flat against the boot without sticking out to the inside, that would really be unsightly.

Quote:
Why isn't there one on the other side of the boot?

 

 

Only one D ring per power strap.
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 

Well it proves that it is there for a purpose and it tranfers to the upgrade nicely.

post #15 of 19

I think the solution you have arrived at should work out just fine.

post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 

In case anyone is curious, I skied two days with the strap as I had them in the blurry pictures; over the outer (shell) tongue but inside the top buckle. It worked best when I moved the top buckle’s ladder to the furthest inboard position and buckled the top buckle just enough to keep it from flapping. I would have left it completely open but didn’t want it catching on something. I could have probably fit my finger under the top buckle when it was closed; that’s how loose it was.  That was on the second day.  The first day the clamp was on the ladder but not closed and the ladder was in the middle position.  Clamping it over the booster strap dug in too much.

 
This also made it so I could have the booster strap tighter than previously. It felt great and skied great.
 
I’m considering taking the hardware of the top buckle off so it is out of the way completely. I’ll probably try that if I can get my liberty card again this weekend.
 
The irony is that I originally asked the question so as to not shorten the life of the booster straps I had by putting extra holes in them, and was then given a brand new pair of expert straps the night before I was going skiing!
 
Ken
post #17 of 19
Any updates on this? I'm trying to set up my booster strap on a set of Krypton's with the ID liner. 
post #18 of 19
I run my Booster Straps in the same configuration over the shell and tongue as the stock power strap, which I removed and replaced with the Booster.  It looks like the first picture.  This allows me to micro adjust the flex of the boot by how tight I make the top buckle.  I am a big guy, but I use the softer grey tongues, and the setup is plenty stiff for my purposes.

Maybe it is because I have a big size boot, but my Booster Strap fits above the top buckle and would have to be pushed down in an unnatural alignment to fit under my buckle.  I see it as replacing the stock power strap, which did not go under my top buckle. 

It sounds like L&AirC is using it to replace the top buckle, which basically changes the function of the 3-piece shell design of the boot because the Booster Strap is not connected to the shell like the top buckle.  If you can run that setup without buckling your top buckle, you might want to try it with the softer tongue before you start removing buckle hardware.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Oh how things change over time.

I no longer leave the top buckle unbuckled.  I do buckle it so it is just snug.  I'm going for not gaps with minimal stiffness (using the black tongue now which is about 115 flex).  I then tighten the booster strap.  With the new pair of 3 band booster straps I got at the end of last year, the situation (booster strap and buckle interference) seems better and I think it is because the newer one is slightly shorter (measured top to bottom) than the one in the photo.  So the strap is on top of the shell and sits above (just touching) of the buckle and the top buckle is buckled.

Ken
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