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Booster Strap plus old strap?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

Just got myself a pair of Booster Straps and I have a question about fitting them to my Head S8 boots. On the Heads there doesn't seem to to be an easy way of removing the old straps without irreversible changes to the boots - they seem to fixed on at the back with rivets rather than screws. (There is a bolt you can unscrew but that only seems to be to adjust the spoiler).

 

Now, I'm reluctant to simply cut the old straps off, in case I want to pass the boots on to somebody when I upgrade. Is it possible to use BOTH straps? I can see a way of doing it where I bring the Booster Strap below the old strap fixing at the back. Is anyone else doing this and are there any problems with it?

post #2 of 11

For what it's worth, there is no easy way to remove the stock power straps on most boots.

 

You could just leave the old straps closed loosely, and you might actually want to do this for a day just to see if you really like the feel of the Booster Straps (I do). If so, you'd have much better results drilling out the rivets and replacing them with screws and T-nuts. Other than cosmetically, you will not have changed the boots at all.

 

It's not that hard - I've done it with my last two pairs of boots.

 

You just need an electric drill and a bit large enough to wear away the flange on the inner side of the rivet (I'm sure there's some attachment for a Dremel tool that's better suited for this purpose, but I've never bothered to look), then punch it out.

 

 

post #3 of 11

^^^ What he said ^^^

 

Drill out the rivets, replace them with T-Nuts and remove the old strap, replace with Booster. This way you can easily replace the velcro strap if you want (you won't want to), you won't have really 'changed' anything permenantly.

post #4 of 11

Almost all boots have the power straps rivetted in so they don't pull out.  If you drill out the rivets you can simply slide the Booster Straps in and use them like that, no problem. When in comes time to sell or pass on the boots just slide them out and slide in the original straps.   The only drawback is that if you take out the rivets and don't replace them you may not be able to hook the straps together for carrying your boots, but otherwise there is no reason to re-rivet them.

post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 

OK, I've run into a couple of minor problems. Firstly, I can't get hold of any T-nuts and matching screws small enough (1/4 inch is the smallest I can get), so I think what I may do is to use normal bolts with flattish heads and put them from the inside out, with hex nuts on the outside. They shouldn't really protrude inside the boots. Secondly, I can't actually try the Booster Straps out without making a hole in them, because the plate which the strap goes under also has a centre hole for a screw used for spoiler adjustment (loosen it off and you can move the spoiler up and down to the desired position). So I'm going to have to bite the bullet and put a hole in the nylon bit of the strap for the screw to go through.

post #6 of 11

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by J2R View Post

 

OK, I've run into a couple of minor problems. Firstly, I can't get hold of any T-nuts and matching screws small enough (1/4 inch is the smallest I can get),

 

 

What's wrong with using those then? 5mm isn't really a big hole at all.

Quote:

so I think what I may do is to use normal bolts with flattish heads and put them from the inside out, with hex nuts on the outside. They shouldn't really protrude inside the boots.

Not by much; enough to wear a hole in the back of the liner though.

Quote:
Secondly, I can't actually try the Booster Straps out without making a hole in them, because the plate which the strap goes under also has a centre hole for a screw used for spoiler adjustment (loosen it off and you can move the spoiler up and down to the desired position). So I'm going to have to bite the bullet and put a hole in the nylon bit of the strap for the screw to go through.

 

Remind me again, why then do you need the flat bolts or T-nuts if the strap is centered around and held by the spoiler adjustment screw?

 

Putting a hole in the nylon strap is actually a good thing.   It means you can tension the strap without the elastic part rotating and sliding around the boot cuff towards the buckle. 

 

Don't forget to stretch the elastic strap when you measure to put the hole in so the buckle can align correctly.

post #7 of 11

I installed Booster on a friends Heads.  I found T Nuts that fit at Lowes.  You may have to enlarge the holes in the metal plate and boot a little with a drill.  I don't recall doing it, but it won't hurt anything.

 

You will want to put holes in the Boosters webbing to attach it to the boot.  If you have a propane torch(or use a stove) heat up a phillips head screwdriver until it is red.  Push it through the webbing to make the hole.  Don't burn yourself.

post #8 of 11

The set up with the rear metal plate and screw also holding the spoiler in place sounds similar to my Kryptons.  I removed the screws, took out the original power straps, and put the scews right back in and then ran the Booster Straps over the metal plate instead of under it.   This works fine because my shells also have front slots on each side to run the straps through before they go over the tongue.

 

If your shells are similar you may be able to get away with not having to put holes in the Booster Straps.  I would recommend trying them skiing before putting holes in the straps if possible.  I found the Booster Straps buckles cutting into my ankles and had to repostion them before they worked the way I wanted.
 


Edited by mudfoot - 3/13/2009 at 02:51 pm
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by comprex View Post

 

 

What's wrong with using those then? 5mm isn't really a big hole at all.

 

It's bigger than the holes in the chrome-effect plastic plate, and the T-nut is too deep.

 


Remind me again, why then do you need the flat bolts or T-nuts if the strap is centered around and held by the spoiler adjustment screw?

 

I probably don't, but the originals were so held.

 

Putting a hole in the nylon strap is actually a good thing.   It means you can tension the strap without the elastic part rotating and sliding around the boot cuff towards the buckle. 

 

Don't forget to stretch the elastic strap when you measure to put the hole in so the buckle can align correctly.

 

Yes, the plan is now to put a hole in the nylon strap, after having stretched the elastic. Thanks for the hint.

 

post #10 of 11

 

Quote:
What's wrong with using those then? 5mm isn't really a big hole at all.
 
It's bigger than the holes in the chrome-effect plastic plate, and the T-nut is too deep.

 

Ah, trying to keep some market value to the boot, eh?

 

With long T-nuts one uses washers on the outside of the boot.       

post #11 of 11

If the T-nuts are too long, you can shorten them by grinding, filing, or cutting with a hack saw. Whichever method you choose, when you're done, put a scew through from the "wrong" side to get rid of the burr that will have made the hole a little too small to accept the screw.

 

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