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Changing Base Edge Bevel

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

So I recently picked up a pair of Line Prophet 90s from SierraSkis.  Great deal.


I've tried to ski them twice with no real luck.  Can't find the edge. I originally thought it might be technique, since these are the widest skis I've been on, but now I think it's the base bevel.


While I don't have a real True Bar, I found a piece of metal that was real close. I also measured on all 4 sides of the bar, so the average at least should be pretty close to reality.  Came up with anywhere from 3 to 4 degrees.


I have always tuned my own edges, but left the base edges alone, except for minor touch-ups from rock damage.


So if I were to invest in something like the Ski Visions Base Flattener & a decent base bevel guide, how much work is involved in getting these back to 1 degree?  Sometimes I think ignorance is bliss. I have always left the base to a shop that ues a machine. After reading on this forum, I'm hesitant to do that again.


Are we talking hours of work to remove that much base material?




post #2 of 10

you will need to sand the bases and it will take a while. if you don't trust the shop to put the correct bevel on it, just have them grind it flat and set the bevel yourself, or find a shop that does race tunes and pay extra to get it done by hand.

post #3 of 10

If it's that much, I would get a shop to run them through the belt -- would take forever with the Ski Visions tool. 

post #4 of 10

First, I'd get an honest to God true bar and make sure that the bevel is that far off, or even have a shop with a bevelmeter find out what the base bevel really is.  It does sound like it is way off.  If it's something like 3 or 4 degrees, I'd next ask Sierra Skis why the hell they sold you a pair of skis that convex.  If they don't want to do the fix, what the other posters said is the right answer:  get somebody you trust to grind them flat, then bevel them to 1 degree, or whatever you want....


post #5 of 10

I'd be really, really surprised if the base bevel on a brand new pair of skis was that far off.  I'm going to assume for the rest of this response that the bevels are fine.  You don't really have the tools to assess the bevel properly.  I should also note that even with an over-beveled base edge it will hook up just fine, but takes more edge angle to get there.


I'm thinking you're dealing with one of three things:

  1. Technique/skill - have you ridden a wide ski before?  Can you really carve a narrow ski?
  2. Binding mount position - it's very possible that the mount position is too far rearward for you making it more difficult to adequately pressure the tips.
  3. Binding delta - there may be too little or too much - totally depends on your boots, but delta can definitely lead to problems with getting a ski to hook up.


That's my take on this.


post #6 of 10

To reduce the base edge bevel, you need to grind away the base material and the base edge steel until the angle you want meets the very edge.  This can be a big job if you really need to reduce 3°.


I agree, take the skis to a good local shop that has the bevel measuring tools and find out what you have right now.  If the bases aren't flat, they need to be stone ground, anyway.  Sometimes the skis continue to cure after the factory tuning and become out of shape over time.

post #7 of 10

Here's the True Bar & Edge Bevel Wikis.


If you are convex or have a major bevel angle issue, the grind required to get them dead flat could remove a substantial amount of your edge. You might want to do it in steps rather than all at once. If your base isn'y flat, it may be tough to get atrue measure. Relative to the intersections of the base and edge may be your most 'truthful' option. A digital gauge works well.






post #8 of 10

Anybody with an iPhone or iPod Touch can get one of the various level or inclinometer apps and make the measurement (the device's internal accelerometer is quite good when calibrated -- I use it in a couple of my apps).  The trick of course, is being able to position it on a ski edge in a repeatable way.  In my case, I was able to use some double-stick tape to attach my iPhone to my true bar and use that as the reference.

post #9 of 10

Alpinord - thanks for that post showing the Wixey digital angle gauge.  I had never seen that and it's a very reasonable price ($39.99).  Is it accurate enough for the recreational skier?  All the other skiing-specific gauges I've found are incredibly more expensive.


Given the seemingly limited distribution of this device I would think that it would be a good addition at slidewright.com .  I know that if I had seen it there when placing my last order I would have bought one.

post #10 of 10

I've been thinking of carrying the digital gauges. They are very useful for a lot of things. I contacted Wixey last year and test drove the gauges, calipers and the digital protractor, but never pulled the trigger. I will, one of these days, if there is interest. (I dropped a line to him and we'll see what transpires.) The owner thinks the protractor is a better for edges, but I found the gauge easier to control.


The assistance of a linear magnet super glued to the gauge base seems to work well, but reduces the tools versatility. There are (3) 1/4" round magnets on the bottom, but are designed to work laterally in unison on saw blades and are a little too weak using one to snap to the edge. Too strong of a magnet and it's a little battle between true bar and gauge.....


They are very touchy and if you get hung up on matching to the 1/10th, you'll never go skiing. The interesting thing is finding the real variability along the edge, It takes many resets to measure, however due to needing to work from a variable benchmark along the non-linear ski.




Edited by Alpinord - 3/5/2009 at 03:16 pm
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