The thing that really matters the most is the base is flat and then a base edge bevel of say 1 degree (or less) can be put on the metal edge only. If the base is not flat or has some sort of huge base edge bevel the ski can act really weird.
Is this a given in a new ski? No, certainly not. Should it be? From the customer's perspective yes, but should a ski shop really have to pay out of pocket to grind them flat? No too.
This is just the way it is. If you want to start a campaign to change it go for it but most of the public is either innocently ignorant or on the opposite side take the view that it matters not. The attitude of "I don't need to know anything about that, I just ski" or "That tuning stuff is for gapers" etc. . The first is just ignorant and the second is interesting since the very same people will spend hours discussing the looks of jackets, pants, and helmets, none of which affects the skis performance.
Of course if you ski soft snow all the time it doesn't matter all that much. You don't need ptex on the base so you certainly don't need wax, and the edges can be round since you don't need those either. Even in those conditions though wax will make it way easier to glide out of the flat terrain at the bottom and also helps to make the ptex more resistant to light rock strikes.
Apparently a good example of new skis needing work is the Head IM 88. You can read about it here:
2009 Head Im88 Review by Richie Rich. Post # 68 by Atomicman and on (probably some before also) talks about the factory tune or lack of.
As to the question "How do I know". You need a true bar. Look under the wikis under "T" for true bars and tuning. There's info there. Also the tuning section. Elsewhere on line, Slidewright (run by Alpinord here), and Tognar tool works, have good tuning sections, or Race Place - makers of "The Beast" tuning tools has good info.