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Cant adjustment on Salomon boots?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

On most boots I've seen, the cant adjustment is a simple cam turn.  What I am asking: Is there a way to get more adjustment with a different cam?  Maybe a better way to ask is: what is the simplest method of getting more cam (cant) adjustment with Salomon boots (i.e. Falcons, Impact, etc.)?

post #2 of 9

the salomon cant screws (for upper cuff alignment) is not changeable.  You can only use the parts that are on the boot.

Some salomons have more range, if they have adjustments on both the inside and outside.

 

If you need more then what the boot can do see a boot fitter,  odds are they will have other tricks, but depends on the boot, the fit, the footbed, the size, etc.....

post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 

Thanks mntlion , I was afraid of that. :-(

Unfortunately, on the Falcons and the Impacts there are just two positions on each side, so in reality you can only cant inside one position, neutral, or outside one position. I need about double what that yeilds.

 

Then there is always the pop-rivet tool! ;-)

 

 

post #4 of 9

It is a shame that the ski boot companies still do not understand that cuff adjustment is not canting.

post #5 of 9

Simplemind....as Ray said the boot companies need to understand that the cuff adjustment is not canting, most of them do, they just badly comunicate it...what are you trying to achieve...the cuff cant is designed to fine tune the cuff of the boot to your lower leg....where you fall outwith these parameters you probably do need to see a good fitter and have some adjustments made, these could include a different footbed, cuff shims or true under boot canting to address the alignment issues.

post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CEM View Post

Simplemind....as Ray said the boot companies need to understand that the cuff adjustment is not canting, most of them do, they just badly comunicate it...what are you trying to achieve...the cuff cant is designed to fine tune the cuff of the boot to your lower leg....where you fall outwith these parameters you probably do need to see a good fitter and have some adjustments made, these could include a different footbed, cuff shims or true under boot canting to address the alignment issues.


 

Thanks Ray & CEM,

I have gone the route you suggested with a competent bootfitter with my old boots.  I'm about 2* outside on both legs.  I didn't want to go with ski shims if possible, as it gets slightly more involved with the Railflex system.

Also, the orthosis I have is as about good as it gets I believe, so I was just hoping to get about one more degree adjustment in the cuff without causing too much fuss!

Seems like a business opportunity for an aftermarket retro-fit cam!

post #7 of 9

it is really a matter of how much or little material you can put in the edge of the cam

 

when you say 2 degrees out are you talking about a difference in the gap either side of your lower leg in the shell without the liner or are you talking about knee mass when the boot is on and clipped up....the cuff adjuster is not designed to correct the latter

 

if it is the space bewteen the leg and the shell, you could try a shim of foam between the lienr and the cuff on the side with the greater gap to fill the space and even things up, this is not a great fix but as a temporary measure it may do the job...most under boot canting is done by planing the soles of the boot or wedging under lifter plates now rather than under binding shims

post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 

CEM, it's " knee mass when the boot is on and clipped up". When my legs are shoulder width apart, the boot bottoms are flat. When I bring the boots close, say 4" apart, then the inside edges of the boot bottom is off the ground, maybe 1/16".  Tilting the cuff outward allows the boot to sit more flat against the floor. I just don't understand how "cuff alignment" does not accomplish the same thing as the cant strips.

It seems to like what you want to accomplish is to have a boot and shaft (cuff) that exactly follows the shape of your foot and lower leg, with the boot bottom flat. All of this is so the skis at "the preferred gap" (apart) are flat to the snow. A number of ways to accomplish this.

 

My natural "parallel" ski position is probably 12"-15" apart, when I am relaxed and moving down a smooth slope. When I try to bring the skis together, I have to consciously hold them there as they want to go back out.  People, including instructors, comment on how wide (far apart) my skis are. Yes, some of this is because I'm a level 5, but to progress, I think I need to get the angle solved.

post #9 of 9

ok so you stand slightly bow legged, the cuff adjuster will accomodate some of this then dependiong on the available range of motion at the knee and hip joint you can make under boot adjustments to either Fill  [maintains the bow legged stance but ski runs flat] OR Cant [ which will bring the knee in and flatten the boot at the same time]  this is the main reason why the guys on here assess skiers every day, to determine if they have the joint space availability to allow them to be canted or if the need to settle for the fill option

 

as i said in the previous post shimming the upper cuff offers a band aid solution

 

cuff adjustment addresses the relationship between the foot and the ankle/lower leg in the shell of the boot, accounting for tibial curvature etc. when the lower leg is then encased in the shell.... under boot canting addresses the relationship between the whole boot,[ and your leg] and the ground, two different adjustments both of which add up to better position on your skis.

 

my suggestion would be get to a good fitter who speicalises in aligment and balance assessments and get this issue sorted, your skiing will improve rapidly when it is done

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