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MA request

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

OK, here it goes.


You can't see from the angle it was shot, but these are RR turns.

post #2 of 10

Hi incognito.  You're working very hard to angulate as you put your skis on edge.  That's good, as it will keep you outside ski balanced.  The thing I see that needs work is your initiation.  You're developing edge angle very rapidly, and in the process your tails are getting displaced laterally.  This is degrading the quality of the start of your carve, introducing a bit of a push/pivot.


The remedy;

Move to a slope that's a bit flatter.  Connect a series of rail turns that are done on a very small edge angle.  Check your tracks to make sure the connection of turns is ultra clean and pivot free.  Stay on that flat slope and gradually increase edge angle.  As you do, make sure you build into that higher edge angle very slowly and progressively each turn.  Don't reach maximum edge angle until the turns apex (halfway point).  That should help remove the pivot and clean up the initiation.  Then take those cleaner turns to progressively hgher edge angles,,,, and then to progressively steeper terrain. 

post #3 of 10

Nice rhythm, flow and solid close stance. However, what Rick said, you are skidding the top part of your turns. If you look at your hips you can see that they do not move inside the turn before or even at apex. Your upper body is also heavily anticipated on top of the turn adding to the effect of rotating your hips outwards at turn initiation. Carving rr-traxs is all about locking skis onto their edges straight after edge change. In order to achive this you need to create efficient edge angles early on. This you do by tipping your skis onto new edges and starting with upper body counter and angulation before apex. The cameraman should have skied down and filed your trax. Thats an excellent way of comparing skiing against the trax to see what really happened. Its very easy to do when you film from behind like in this clip.

post #4 of 10

Everyone agrees.  You need to feel the edge of the outside ski engage before making any sudden moves on top, like coming down hard on the outside ski, and twisting the feet a bit. 


Be more gentle and progressive with the edging until you learn to ochestrate the increase of pressure /angulation with the bite of the ski. Start simply by making sure you feel the edge bite, then make whatever moves you do when carving until the ski lets go or skids. 


Repeat and analyse why that happens -- is there enough weight pressing down into the snow?  are you rotating? Are you turning the feet?  Are the skis getting ahead of you?  Are you parked and the ski has stopped slicing/turning? Are you centered or too far forwards? Are you pushing on the skis? Are you pushing the heels?  Is your poling breaking the carve? Figure out exactly what it is that makes the ski skid.


This will make you get more in touch with your body and especially feet, and will enable you to change your movements and timing to produce your desired turn.


Good luck!


post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 

Thanks guys for really insightful analysis.  I also agree.

This was shot on a terrain where I'm being challenged to carve clean turns, and I'm trying to make tighter turns than my technique allows.


Next time I'll try to get a better video.  As Rick suggested, I'll work on a gentler slope, and I'll also try to capture the tracks.


Thanks again.

post #6 of 10

More counter.  You want your hips and upward to face the outside of the turn very early after the beginning of the turn.  Facing downhill is only valid when one is making turns so quickly that there is not time to turn to the outside.


Lighter on the inside ski.  Flex the inside leg sooner and more. 


Your angulation comes in about the mid point of the turn.  If you angulate sooner you may stop that tail skid early in the turn.  Bigger edges angles early on the snow are OK if you're balanced for them, and you aren't.  You seen to dump to a lot of angulation at the end of the turn and this is when the big cloud of snow is blown out.  Make it smooth and progressive from the beginning of the turn. 


Feel the edges as you ride them.  The feeling should be smooth and quiet.  As Rick says, work on flatter slopes and ride the edges as if they were ice skates.  When you get that feeling move up gradually to steeper terrain, keeping that same on-edge feeling.


Watch this video from :40 seconds on and try to emulate a de-tuned version of what he's doing.

post #7 of 10



There is some carving, but not close to RR track turns.  To start with, open your stance up a lot.



post #8 of 10

If you want to do RR track turns, Ron is right.


I actually see nothing seriously wrong with your stance width -- one ski is not on top of the other.



post #9 of 10

Good info incognito. Almost looks like your not engaging your tips to start your new turn. The more progressive/smoother/balanced the further you can ride your edges away from your CoM. Paitence+ Practice=Cofidence.

post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by slider View Post


Good info incognito. Almost looks like your not engaging your tips to start your new turn.


This is definitely true.  I'm struggling with pressuring the tips in a controlled manner.  I had a few spectacular over-the-handlebars falls recently.  I should also add that I'm an old school skier, and I've just restarted again after 15-year hiatus.  At the very least, this explains my stance.  I've tried wider stance, but I find it uncomfortable, contrived and ugly.


I'll try to get more footage this weekend, and really focus on capturing the tracks.  I'm surprised at the amount of pivot in these turns, so I really want to verify it.





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