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DIN Settings question

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

I have searched the internet and the forums for a general guide on how to set my Bindings. 


I have found only references that "it is a function of your gender, weight, size and skiing ability".


I am 80 Kg, 180cm  ( 176 lbs, 5 11" )


When I was a beginner my skis where set to DIN 5


Three years later when I bough my "intermediate-advanced" skis the guy set it to DIN 6


Yesterday I finally bough my first pair of racing skis. I found a '09 Salomon 3V race 165cm discounted to 60% off and decided to get them.


When the guy at the shop asked me my info for the setup, I told him "It is for advanced or racing use".


So he setup the Bindings to DIN 10


When I was ready to leave, I asked him how he found out this was the setting and what would be if I wanted to use the skis more for training, all-around skiing.


He told me he has a computer program that calculates the DIN settings according to some parameters ( height, weight, age, gender, skiing style )


He told me then that for training/all-around use I should set them up to 7 and put them back to 10 for racing.


What is your experience with this ?


I also noticed that he left the rear ( heels ) on DIN 6, probably he forgot to put them to DIN 10 ? or it is normal to have the fronts in 10 and the rears on 6 for racing ?


Thanks for your answers.

post #2 of 16

There used to be a thread that had a link to DIN calculator on the old site.  I don't have any experience with any computer programs, other than the DIN calculator from the old site, in use in ski repair shops.


In regards to binding settings, the five factors that are used to calculate DIN values are height, weight, age, skier type (I, II, III, III+), and bootsole length.  Gender is not a factor for setting DIN values. 


What are the final DIN values on your work ticket?  If they don't match what are on your bindings, take your skis, boots, and work ticket back to the shop, and have it reset the values and retest the system.  Your DIN values should match what are on the ticket.  What this tells me is that your tech tried to shortcut the system.


My heel and toe pieces are all set at the same DIN values (8 for training, 11 for race).  I torque test them to make sure that they are working fine.




Edit:  I'd still question why the toes and heels don't match.  A value for 6 is very light for a male racer.  I could see you pulling the heel of your boot out at the start.


Edit:  DIN values don't necessarily need to match as noted in the next response.  My issue is that the difference between the heel and toe pieces is too great.  I think your tech did some sloppy work.

post #3 of 16

One very important parameter no one mentioned to you is the size of your boot. Generally, the longer the sole the lower DIN setting. Diffrent manufacturers use slightly diffrent parameters to set the correct DIN, but speaking from expierience (I am the former national team member) I set the DIN according to: skiing ability, weight, boot size and your ski style. Althogh sometimes toe and the heel might be set to diffrent numbers in your case I think the technician forget to adjust the heels. (During my racing days, my downhill boards Marker's MRR's Turntables toes were set to 14 and heels to 12)

post #4 of 16



Someone posted this somewhere and I bookmarked it.  Enjoy.

post #5 of 16

An interesting note...the OP is from Switzerland which means the shops don't really use the exact parameters we do in the States. As the culture in Europe tends to be much less litigious the shops frequently go by the general information given to them.  Most Europeans aren't rushing to their lawyer's office the minute something happens as the culture tends to promote personal resposibility.


So the OP told his shop he was going to race, the shop set the bindings at a DIN setting not so unusual for racing (actually still on the lower end for a racer). The DIN calcualtors are set up to reduce the chance of a lawsuit being filed.

post #6 of 16

...but if they set them for racing, and he actually raced in them, he would come out of the heels when set at 6 and not make it to the first gate.  I have my heels set higher than my toes but (my ignorance) can't think of a reason to have toes higher than heel.  My toe setting is lower because I'm missing an acl and skiing with a brace.  It's mainly lower because I'm terrified of reinjury.


I'm 5'7", 170# bsl 298 and just getting into racing.  The first thing I was told by my coach (actually more of a mentor) was to crank my heel to 8 (type III for me).  I asked why and he demo'd.  We are the same height but he has 10-15# on me.  His bsl is 296.  We adjusted the forward pressure on my bindings for him, he clicked in and proceeded to jump out of my skis!  He was standing infront of both skis!  My heel and toe indicators were at 6.5 which is type II for me.


He also stated that when making a high speed carving turn, there is a lot of pressure on the ski and it can come off prematurely and I was skiing at a speed that I didn't want me ski coming off at.


I'm not saying what I'm doing is correct but I am saying the a toe at 10 and heel at 6 doesn't make sense not matter the style of skiing.




post #7 of 16

Those heels do seem a bit low.  He probably forgot to set them or thought the 6 was 9.


Still I can see having heels lower than toes.  I came out of my bindings a couple of weeks ago.  I was trying to make a slight turn at high speed in a patch of old junk snow between where two sections of groomed (the groomer had done a couple of intersecting trails, but not the patch where I had set up my turn).  I don't know if the slalom ski folded up too much and dialed in a sharp turn, but it seemed to me that as I braced for impact and redirection, my foot just slid off sideways as the toe let go.  I increased the DIN of my toe to 8 from 7.5.  III+ is 8.5 for me.  Maybe that's what I should set them at.  Anyway, my heel piece, has a diagonal release, but looking at the thing, (FF17+), it has to lift up to go sideways.  If I'm in a turn, I'm pushing my heel down and sideways.  The heel would only eject me if the tips hit something of if I put a lot of tip pressure on the skis.  So it's possible that 7.5 would work ok on the heel, but not on the toe.

post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 

Thanks for all your replies.


Yes I guess he simply did it quick and then forgot to setup the heels.


I bought it from a big shop this saturday, they are on final sale days so the stuff is heavily discounted, with 50% off and more. So the shop was full of people and he told me "I'll do it quick when I have some time", probably got distracted and forgot to setup the heel.


I did as you adviced and put toe and heel to the same setting, I will be using it on 10 for racing and 8 when using them for training or a more relaxed day.



post #9 of 16

Why don't you just take a screwdriver and fix it yourself?!?!

post #10 of 16
Originally Posted by techlogik View Post


Why don't you just take a screwdriver and fix it yourself?!?!

 And if they were set lower because the scale is wrong and the binding registers higher than what they say on torque testing????? I doubt thats the case because the difference is too big and it should have been noted on the ticket, but what's the harm in having the shop revisit the settings.

post #11 of 16

according to the DIN scale site posted previously I should be at DIN 11. But it doesn't say tail or front... My bindings are DIN 11 in the rear, yet inexplicably only DIN 6 at the front. I had guessed I needed 11 out of 13 front and rear.


I used to tighten my Salomon 747 Equipes to 9.5/10 just to keep from hopping out during PHTs... I don't think my boot sole has gotten any longer. Has Marker just entirely changed the game?


I will definitely take a number 3 phillips head up the hill with me tomorrow once I slip the toe out after the first PHT.


-- f9a

post #12 of 16

If 6 is near the lowest setting on the scale, it suggests to me the tech forgot to set the toes. Most bindings ship with the DIN cranked down near the bottom of the scale.  I have to remind myself to set the DIN after installing bindings.  One time a long time ago I forgot, and didn't get more than one turn down the hill before I waltzed right out of the bindings (thankfully it was smooth and low speed, so no crash/injury).  Nowadays I put a sticky note on the skis so I don't forget to set the DIN when I check boot fit and fwd pressure.

post #13 of 16

You could always set them to 30... my solution to any binding problem ;).

post #14 of 16
Originally Posted by Rise To The Top View Post


You could always set them to 30... my solution to any binding problem ;).

 Springs are for wusses...replace the spring with a roll of quarters, 

post #15 of 16

Quarters are too big, pennies work with a slight grind... yes, I know from trying.

post #16 of 16

Don't let that guy touch your bindings again, he is careless.

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