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Softening and cutting some Lange 120's

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Hello all.

I would like to ask the “boot guys” a few questions about softening a couple of Lange WC 120’s.

First of all, I have to say that in the european country where I live bootfitting is something very common in the BIG mountain range, but in the small mountain range where I’m living right now it seems to be something no one cares about... so there isn’t a decent boot fitter within a reasonable driving distance from me.

I’ve skied my WC 120´s hundreds of days and I have always thought they were stiffer than what I needed, specially on the really cold days. On those days I just can’t flex my ankles enough.

I’m thinking of replacing them, so cutting (as a way of experimentation) doesn’t scare me at all.

I have also fiddled with the two rivets behind the boot. They help, but not that much (and I’ve also heard that this isn’t a proper way to soften a boot).

On some website I found a photo of a method of softening them, by cutting off some material on the rear part of the lower shell, like on this photo:

I thought about removing about 1 inch of material from here to see if there is any difference, as I’ve heard.

I know that I should go to a bootfitter, but since I can’t right now and I’m not scared about cutting for the reasons I’ve explained above.

I hope I haven’t bored you with this!
Thanks in advance.
post #2 of 4
1) remove both the back rivets all the way as see if you do like the softer flex and go ski it. This is just a test, if you like the softer flex FOR SURE, great, but cutting the shell, for better or worse, is permanent

2) also try the power strap around the liner only (between the liner and the shell) that can soften a boot a bit too, again a reversible test

3) you can soften a boot by increasing the "V" notch on both sides of the boot. lower it by 1cm at a time. if you can remove the whole upper cuff this is way easier to do the work.
post #3 of 4
Changing the stock liner to a thermo or liner without a plastic shroud will change the flex without changing the; transmission of energy, rebound or resistance.
post #4 of 4
the cut lines you show are pretty good, also look at removing a small amount of materila for the "front wings" of the clog and from the lower side of the cuff where it wraps on the instep
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